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Replaced water pump and alternator and belt tensioner. As result ended up with some sort of chirping noise.
After much of struggles identifying the suspect.... Ended up being the new alternator. Borrowed some parts from it and placed old one back. Problem solved, disappointing purchase. Considering that I had to take voltmeter from old alternator and put in the new ones, else battery sign doesn't go away. On brighter side, I can swap alternators in under 30 min .. including time of voltmeter replacement.
Talking about nastier disappointments.... I did lots work trying to eliminate burned oil smell for my Jag. Replaced oil pan gasket. Oil was getting on the alternator and alternator was spraying that oil as it spins on to hot exhaust and the whole car was a nightmare to sit in.
However, today during alternator replacement, I noticed oil on the new one... and it was not leaking from the oil pan, but a couple inches above. See picture attached. I presume not an easy or cheap fix? Does anyone have had any experience with such situation?
Thank you in advance This is Jaguar S type 2003 V6 picture with alternator removed. Right side kas some sort of gasket or silicone, that seems to be seaping oil, where bit to the left is completely dry.
The cam cover gaskets and spark plug boss seals are common failure points on the 3.0 litre Duratec.
On the 2003+ V6, the valve covers are made from corrodium, I mean magnesium. They are very prone to galvanic corrosion. They could be literally falling apart around the edges where the gaskets fit.
For finding oil leaks, I highly recommend doing a smoke test. Block the ports for the PCV system and lightly pressurize the crankcase with the smoke machine via the dipstick tube. I have a homemade tester but you can get inexpensive versions for around $100. Finding the source of a leak can be very frustrating, but a smoker will take you right to it.
Edit: Forget to mention it's much easier to pinpoint a leak without airflow blowing things around. Safer, too, with no moving belts, pulleys, etc.
NBCat,
You misunderstood the dilemma. Valve cover gasket and spark plug boss is not an issue here. Location is above oil pan.
Valve cover gasket is new and bone dry.
It is very interesting technique that i am not familiar with. Will read up, but curious what home made device looks like.
With that being said, my issue is not with valve cover gasket. I think I am in far more bigger trouble. Leak appears to be above alternator and above oil pan gasket. I just don't know right terminology ...yet.
It is very interesting technique that i am not familiar with. Will read up, but curious what home made device looks like.
Search for "automotive smoke machine" or similar. You can purchase basic versions around $100 or pro versions for several hundred. Lots of options out there, including homemade versions made from a pickle jar and soldering iron. Most are 12V for remote use, but I preferred 110V so I didn't have to worry about killing the battery.
Here's an example of how well a smoke test can work. I replaced the engine (351W V8) in my pickup last year. I purchased a reman long block and transferred the oil pan, valve covers, etc. from old to new. I had great access working on an engine stand, but even so had a couple of minor spots that would have leaked oil once in service. This view is where the oil pan meets the block, at the aft end. I could even see which side of the gasket was leaking, it was that good:
I recently took care of some oil leaks on my '02 V6. I found leaks at the grommets around the VVT actuators and the seals at the spark plug wells. It was nice to have confirmation before tearing things apart, and then making sure the new gaskets were good.
Originally Posted by Leons
Leak appears to be above alternator and above oil pan gasket. I just don't know right terminology ...yet.
Could the leak be between the timing cover and block?
Maybe, from what I was able to google out, maybe "Upper Oil Pan" and block. Which is bit of nightmare, I would immagine.
It is slow leak and I just don't have means anymore to even consider fixing it myself. Which seems like very big job, likely out of my reach.
I suspect it may be cheaper to get new used engine than deal with this type of repair at some point in the future. Moving to South Carolina, need to somehow find a good, trustworthy mechanic overthere. How does one do that? Do we have any treds on this forum where people can review mechanics?
Jaguar's are just to rare to have such a list. I would start searching in your area for a "British" car repair place. Most often to make a living these shops need to service a range of vehicles or there would not be enough volume to keep them alive.
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Maybe, from what I was able to google out, maybe "Upper Oil Pan" and block. Which is bit of nightmare, I would imagine.
It is slow leak and I just don't have means anymore to even consider fixing it myself. Which seems like very big job, likely out of my reach.
I'd suggest cleaning the suspect area with aerosol brake cleaner to see if you can pinpoint the leak.
Originally Posted by Leons
I suspect it may be cheaper to get new used engine than deal with this type of repair at some point in the future.
Don't go into FullPanicMode just yet. Determine the source of the leak first.
Originally Posted by Leons
Moving to South Carolina, need to somehow find a good, trustworthy mechanic over there. How does one do that? Do we have any threads on this forum where people can review mechanics?
Can't help with specifics, but the 3.0 V6 is part of the Ford Duratec family. Any competent mechanic familiar with Ford should be able to help you. A Jaguar specialist is not needed.
All good points. Nuisance here is the leak is very small, area is dry after driving 15 miles or so. Will have 6 hour trip soon, the will be able to see. I have cleaned engine pretty well as I was tortured by oil smell inside the car. Good comment on ford mechanic, honestly any competent mechanic could work on it, the engine is not super complex at all. The trick though .. to find mechanic that will fix it without creating new problems...