I will shake my finger at you on Sunday! Mainly for cutting and welding over a fuel tank / lines/ pump....Along with cutting holes in your car..

Unfortunately, some nimrod used $3.00 worth of epoxy to cause this poor member of the forums to have to drop their transmission to fix it.

 

Exactly what I was thinking....

I'm not sure how easy the motor mounts are to get to but could you just remove or loosen them enough to clear the bolts from the tunnel to allow access? I wouldn't think you would have to lower the complete tranny but just enough to clear the floor board or beam that is there....

 

Things are getting interesting...maybe if the transmission mount (rear mount) is removed, the transmission may lower (tilt) enough, or that combined with raising the front of the motor too???

Again our vehicle isn't here to see if its possible.

 

HA! I figured that was coming. Hole? What hole....there is no hole there anymore....

All I can say is, trust me, I'm a professional. (professional what...well that is up for debate)

 

man thank god you guys didnt see some of the holes i have drilled in my time........... ROFLMAO

i would o it on my STR though. i would try and figure out a way to do it.

 

I have read that a small propane torch or a commercial type of hot air gun will loosen the JB Weld to the consitency of warm gum.

Clean out the hole and find a self tapping bolt for a replacement.

 

Hmmm... Rick may be on to something there!

 

Good one Rick! Combine that with perhaps some maneuvering of the engine/tranny mounts and he might be able to clean it out good enough to get something in there. Sure is worth a shot IMHO.

 

I'll give that a try as I have a torch from work. Hope it works and I'll let everyone know with an update later.

 

i think i know what you can try too.......butane soldering iron, with a torch attachment, and the U attachment, it will direct the flow of the heat st sngles so you can hold it there.

just thinking out loud

 

I hope not an acetylene torch more like the propane type torch would be better.

 

Access looks "awkward". If that JB Weld stuff isn't too hard, something else (mechanical? chemical?) to ease it out without damaging the thread would be good.

 

what did you figure out?

 

eds123, I am curious, how did you make out? Did you try the heat thingie?

 

Actually, since I got it back from the dealership everything has been working perfect. Im thinking that maybe the other bolt was loose which was causing the problem and they tightened it for me. When it happens again I'm taking it to All Jaguar for a second opinion.

 

I experienced the same issue with the shift lever stuck in Park position. I learned a couple things while troubleshooting that I either missed in this thread or that were not mentioned; the indicator light on the shifter will light the gear the transmission thinks it is in - not the gear the shift lever is in. If the indicator doesn't match the shift lever, you probably missing a bolt which fastens the shifter cable to the transmission as JOsworth called out initially and Joysesjag also mentioned (and provided an awesome pic). If the indicator is not showing the transmission is in Park, it will not allow the shift lever to come out of park, meaning you would have to remove the shifter cover on the center console and locate the lever that releases the shift gear from park.
As i mentioned, I was missing a bolt that holds the shift cable to the transmission. When I aligned the hole to oput the bolt back in, the transmission shifted into Park (where is where the shift lever was at the time). Use blue Lock-tite to prevent the scren from coming out easily - stay away from red lock-tite as it requires heat to remove the bolts.

 

Yes, we've talked about this in many threads over the past few years.

Checking those bolts should be a regular part of doing (or having it done) an oil change. When the belly pan is removed reach up with a wrench (8mm ?) and snug those bolts. Then remove drain the oil.
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar
2015 JCNA National Slalom Champion Class M
Current: '08 S-Type 4.2 "Satin Edition" (250.06 whp / 259.67 torque)
Past: '05 X-Type 3.0/auto Jaguar Racing Green