twin screw.....

 

And Chris asks a great question that I was going to make redundant in a few weeks. On Sunday I met with the father-son owners of Lomotion Performance Cars (Pleasant Valley, NY). The son, J.J. is co-owner of OETuning (OEtuning.com). He and I are arranging a date for my 03 STR to recieve an ECU tune either at their dyno-less facility or me to drive to a location where they perform dyno-tunes. My car would serve as a test mule so that ya all can piggy back on my tune. They've tuned Jags except the STR. I'll report back with progress on this subject.

 

Nice bfs! Excited to hear how it goes....and perhaps make a short road trip up to NY in the future.

 

How would a dynoless tune from this spot be better than, say, the Eurotoys one (or whoever sells that one off-the-shelf tune)?

If there is a god, he will let us finally dynotune our STRs (after 341374612389 years of waiting)...

 

by the time and money you end up spending on these, you can have a twin screw blower kit from avos and spend less $/hp

 

Phil, I don't know if OE's ($?, primary tuner was head software designer for SuperChips) tune will be superior to that of EuroToys ($995, will not discuss the particulars of their tune, tuner, nor method). Without a dyno to verify a gain it's a shot in the dark. I told OE that after the tune I will go to a dyno to see how she's doing and will either be proud or dissapointed with their product.... Non offer a refund save Eurotec Designs ($995), which by the way will re-tune the ECU at no cost if you should further mod the engine. I'm nearing my decision of who's to tune the ECU and will faithfully share any data and try earnestly to gain a discount for members of this forum.

 

I thought he stopped trying to develop a TS kit for the STR...is this not the case?

 

^^^XK/XJ I dont think he gave up. Just not ready for prime time yet more than likely. Personally Ide do a STR only cause I like them, actually like them all. But the STR IMO has the best out of the box factory tune of ecu and trans.
The XK is a dog off the line due to trans and ecu tuning, turn off trac in a STR and waste the tires if so inclined, XJ are second and funny since the XK is the "SPORTS CAR" of the bunch 3rd

 

Dudes, Jags look great but are a bear to understand and mod...however, we're closing in on a decent suspension and engine tune.

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alchris

The claimed bhp increase for the pulley was 20 bhp, the ECU remap 25 bhp and a more modest increase from the other bits and pieces.

You can’t just add up individual performance claims, even the claims itself are sometimes already pretty optimistic. Example, a stock car could benefit from a tune, 15-20 rwhp might be possible, but this would be max imho. Now if you increase the boost, the tune done for the stock boost will not work nicely with this anymore, and it would require a custom tune to be perfect again. For some boost levels the stock tune is even better, and you still have some reserve/safety in it.

What did they tell you that you would gain? Personally I don’t think you can get more then 30 or 40 extra rwhp with the Eaton (unless you throw some serious money at it), people are just too enthusiastic in thinking you can get more horses relatively easy on our cars, and I speak of experience.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Alchris

The rolling road is made by Dyno Dynamics and the best and worst results were 413.6 hp and 399.3 hp at the flywheel. Given the standard car is supposed to produce 395-400 hp you may understand my disappointment. It was explained to me that the Jaguar figures are optimistic and in reality the 4.2 supercharged engines typically produce 360-370 bhp, so the mods have done what is claimed. That didn't sound right to me.

The DD can only estimate engine power; no chassis dyno can do this. The best they can do is providing an estimate, but that would require some good knowledge, and I doubt DD has tested some Jaguar engines on an Engine dyno and verified the results from the chassis dyno. The disadvantage of the DD is that it has 2 very small rollers per wheel, and this causes drag on the wheels which means lower rwhp than the normal large drum per wheel dynos obviously.
So the 413 is an estimated value, but I can’t say what this value really means as I don’t have experience with these DD dynos and which calculation methods they use.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bfsgross

Phil, I don't know if OE's ($?, primary tuner was head software designer for SuperChips) tune will be superior to that of EuroToys ($995, will not discuss the particulars of their tune, tuner, nor method). Without a dyno to verify a gain it's a shot in the dark. I told OE that after the tune I will go to a dyno to see how she's doing and will either be proud or dissapointed with their product.... Non offer a refund save Eurotec Designs ($995), which by the way will re-tune the ECU at no cost if you should further mod the engine. I'm nearing my decision of who's to tune the ECU and will faithfully share any data and try earnestly to gain a discount for members of this forum.

By sharpening the ignition timing & a/f ratios, you are limiting your possibilities with increased boost, the stock ECU isn’t that bad if you want to increase the boost, on the other hand if you are not increasing boost than it might not be a bad idea to tune the ECU, but don’t expect huge gains.
For me the stock tune is working pretty fine as I can increase my boost levels very far, which wouldn’t be possible with a tuned ECU for a specific boost level.

If you want to go for a specific tune, then best to do this on a dyno, and take your time for it (so ensure that for every run all parameters are comparable again, like the intercooler temp for instance), but having that tune available for others might be too optimistic, they would need to have the same setup, and the tune shouldn’t be too sharp.

A superior tune doesn’t exist like that, the best tune is the one done specifically on your car with the mods you have, and still not too sharp to be relatively safe.

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phil_Deeznuutz

I thought he stopped trying to develop a TS kit for the STR...is this not the case?

I haven’t stopped, but things are just not going as fast as I like ;-). I can’t make any promises yet when I could finish unfortunately.

Quote:

Originally Posted by BRUTAL

XK is the "SPORTS CAR" of the bunch 3rd

I can definitely recommend the XKRs over the STRs, as there you can get the best power gains (and the kits are ready ;-).

 

Make of the figures what you will



Thats with a pulley upgrade and remap, I dont understand the bottom figures, all I know is that there is a very noticeable mid range difference, so regardless of the numbers its a lot better to me anyway

 

On a rolling road Dyno the power is usually measured at the rear wheels on the rollers. It's almost impossible to measure bhp at the crank in a built running engine.
Are you sure the figures aren't for rear wheel bhp? RWHP abbreviated.
If you're getting those figures at the rear wheels that's a fair hike in performance.
400 bhp standard measured at the crank will reduce through the drive train to give a lower power output at the rear wheels.

 

yes they are rear wheel figures

 

Same with cars and bikes, the manufacturers "measure" bhp at the crank and it is a mathematically calculated figure, its not actually measured.

The drop in power from the theoretical crank measure to the rear wheel power (which is the only true measure or a car or bikes output) can be between 10 and 20% loss due to freeplay, tolerances and other power sapping interfaces and of course the friction resistance of all moving parts.

So your approximate 400 bhp at the wheels equates to something around 440 bhp at the crank. Just rough figures.

My supercharged Hayabusa was measured at just under 240 rwhp (rear wheel horsepower) on the dyno. But if I work that back to the crank it owuld be say about 270/280 bhp.

Another thing with rolling road dynos which has a significant impact on how much power is actually produced is the air quality, air temperature and relative humidity. I know this from being around drag racers and the racer who did the engine work on my bike.

The other factor is different dyno's will give different results.

So over all you done good !

 

Not true. All OEMs have dynos that attach directly to the crankshaft. The HP and TQ are measured directly and in accordance with SAE procedure.

 

Well using the torque app I have just done a few 0-60mph times (not 0-62) and the results are.......

With a full tank of fuel and driver (me) weighing 18st (fat *******) lol it did....

5.056 secs on avg over 3 runs, thats with traction control ON, sport mode on and flooring from stand still on idle

impressed for a 14 year old car

 

5.056 is in the middle of the range for unmodified cars.

 

Interesting to tack on to such an old thread. You know avos is running 700hp now?

 

yes Avos's car is a beast, on the other hand I dont have £10,000 to do it to mine.

@Mikey, yes but I want the improved midrange not just 0-60 since I can't afford to blow £800 a go on tyres that often lol

Dyno's as we all know are not a true reflection on real world performance. I know it has improved over what it was so i'm happy

 

How? The dyno runs and your 0-60 times suggest that your car is no faster than stock.