Hello
I am having the lock/unlock problem with my central locking. It locks and then immediately unlocks. From what I have read this is caused by a defective drivers door module.
Great, I thought so I got a replacement and as I was about to replace it I thought “hang on” what does it mean as the module states it is programmable.
if I change it, will it mean my key fob will no longer be recognised or can I just go ahead and change it?
Thanks for any advice

 

Your issue can also be caused by a faulty door lock assembly on one of the other doors. Get inside lock the doors with the fob and watch to see which lock tab does not move properly, or is the first to "bounce back" before the rest of the locks pop back to the unlocked position.

 

+1 probably not the module, more likely a mechanical thing

 

Thanks for your input. I had previously done as you suggested and noted that the drivers door did not respond to the key fob input and from that figured it was the module. The small lever above the door pull just didn’t move.

 

Hi
the mechanical door lock locks when you lock the door so I don’t think it’s mechanical. My concern is with the module. If I change it is it likely to screw up the key codes???
BTW. My Stype is a 2000 3ltr.

 

Can you please elaborate? Are you saying the little black lever (below the inside handle) moves properly when you lock the doors via the key fob? Or just that when you push the lever manually, the door locks and can't be opened from the outside? Big difference in how to proceed, so I want to make sure I fully understand the situation.

I'm with the others, thinking the problem is far more likely to be caused by the door actuator, not the control module. Wiring diagrams here:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

Open your wiring diagram at the top of the page, and then scroll to figure 12.2 for the locking system. Two fuses for you to check, both in the Primary Junction Panel inside the cabin just forward of the front right door:

F7
F22

Next, look at the driver's door latch assembly, at the left side of the page. Note how the latch has a motor to lock/unlock the mechanism, and 5 position switches for feedback. If I were a gambling man, I'd suspect something within this complex (electro)mechanical unit versus a solid-state controller. Back to the motor, that's why I asked if the lever under the inner handle was moving in response to a command.

Keep us posted.

 

Hello,
Firstly let me say thank you for everyone's input and to let you know the problem is solved. My central locking is back.
But to answer your questions in order to help anyone else with this problem.
When the key fob was pressed to lock the doors all of the door latches would move to the lock position except the drivers door latch and then they would all immediately unlock. You could see this happen. AND I could also hear a relay click in the drivers door.
I downloaded the wiring diagram but it was too small on my screen to follow.
I then checked the fuses mentioned but before that and I never connected the two events together, was that my drivers side electric mirror was not working. The passenger side was fine as were all the other functions on the door arm so I just figured it had died or a wire was off.
Back to the fuses.
I checked fuse 7 and it was fine and so was 22 or so I thought, but shining a torch through the 10amp fuse I could see that it was broken, not blown as there was no browning just a very thin break. This might explain why initially (months ago) my locking problem was intermittent.
I changed the fuse and bingo central locking works and so does my mirror. Hooray.....
It never occurred to me to check the fuses as I figured 3 doors worked why wouldn't the 4th.
But it is strange that changing the blown fuse 22 would reset the central locking system which is on fuse 7.
Once again thanks and on to the next problem.