Is it here?
HLM Bromsgrove - Independent Car Servicing Tuning Chip Tuning Modifications MOT - Volvo Specialists - Worcestershire

Don't know them, but the dyno looks good (single drum per wheel + eddy current). If you live more south there are other opportunities.

Check the belt size before you go for a new run.

Edit: Viezu also looks to have a good dyno (single drum), i'll take it you are going there?

 

Hi Avos,

Yep Viezu head offce/test facility.... going to spend the day there may well be money well spent. d i can look at tuning and re runs as well as making sure the basics are okay.

Will double check that belt, cheers.

 

I was going to dyno my STRbut after the problems everyone here has been having with the DSC interfering I think I am going to skip...

 

Ask the Paramount Performance tuner how they feel about low temp thermostats and hi-flow cats.

 

No! I was very much looking forward to seeing your dyno slip as we have the same mods less the pulley. IMO you have a true "Bolton STR" that should be a baseline for all of us. It appears the original poster is having an anomalous situation. I think all of us modded STR enthusiasts should get dyno's to increase our sample space for performance based data. Plus it's pretty cheap and a good opportunity to see if your A/F is off.

 

So far everyone here with issues where on a dual drum per wheel dyno, another reason to avoid these I would say.

And last but not least, these cars do NOT have any issues to dyno, just press the DSC button, put gear in 4th, and don't floor it until you are over 4200 rpm, thats it for getting a good run.

 

Is 4th gear the recommended gear for dyno runs for the STR? Mine were done in 3rd gear (https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...12/#post519314) and I got 330HP/323FTLBS after installing Qwiketz's intake. Would 4th gear pulls yield higher numbers?

 

Most operators on duel drum per wheel dynos (like yours) prefer 3rd gear, this shortens the run somewhat (so possibly helps against heat buidlup during the run) and seems to give the highest HP number on these type of dynos.

Of course on the street most hp will be in 4th as that is closest to the 1:1 gearbox gear ratio. This is also reflected on the single drum per wheel dynos, and can confirm this also with my own experience.

 

Good luck determining the cause for the suspect dyno numbers.

As already mentioned, your engine may have been heat soaked and performing a dyno run with the hood closed (and without a fan) is just ridiculous! IMO, your money should be returned or your next dyno should be free.

I am sure you already know many of the items I'll bring up below but I will state them anyway. Do what you can to reduce variables:
Same dyno location (30 min drive where I live is a huge elevation change);
Same dyno operator;
Similar air temperature and relative humidity (so far mine have been (+/-) 5 degF and (+/-) 15% humidity);
Similar engine coolant and intercooler coolant temps;
Same tire pressure.

Experienced dyno shops (unless you request otherwise) usually open your vehicle's hood and use a large fan to simulate air flow as if you were driving down the road at speed. I am going to have my STR on this same style dyno for a 3rd time, since last summer, later this week: (1) stock, (2) exhaust modification and (3) 2.6" SC pulley & exhaust modification.

On this style of dyno (Dyno Dynamics) my car would not hold 4th gear without shifting so all of my results have been in 3rd gear.

Again, good luck to you. If you are interested, you will see my dyno results later this week.
7/10 P Tuning Dyno $75 (maybe a group dyno day in the future)
7/11 Cecil Dragway, Test & Tune, $15
7/13 75 80 Dragway Test & Tune, $30
7/20 MIR, Test & Tune, $20

 

Thanks for that, my graph sets off on a very steep climb and driving the car would bear this out, with huge torque and pulling power...the graph tails off quickly after 4000rpm when it should have kept climbing but does not when driving. I am actually quite looking forward to a good re run, if i can get 330lb torque at the wheels on a bad run, looking forward to see what she is really capable of. Torque is my main goal.. 0 to 100 is my main MPH driving band so major HP figures only really come in to play once peak torque drops off, this is the fun in tuning. I want the strongest push back in the seat feeling.... you know the feeling, being pinned back and feel you car can move mountains and you can overtake anything when needed.

They did use a fan, but bonnet was closed my intake temp for the run was 23 degrees at the air intake raising to 25 at WOT and i think heatsoak set in as Avos said as everything flat lined after 4000rpm. Going to ensure all my plugs are done, intake is heatshielded better i am going to experiment on this before the run. Ordered some new intake piping and heatshield sheeting and rebuilding/sealing the air intake to best prep the car and see how i run.

 

I agree do it....! this could turn in the utlimate tuning thread resource, and dont be afraid of posting up figures especially if they are bad, look at my chart...!

We could do with a couple of stock STR runs.

 

Will do Seff, i want to know this too as i am looking at either a Milltek or Arden full system and water injection next.

 

V8 STR, R U contemplating hi-flow cats? Noticed you went with cat-back.

 

and ive found this out too. I had switched to a gatorback and after a yr and lost of a rib, switched back to my old(saved my old gates) gates belt and boost gained 1psi on top. Then i read that on kb website so go figure

 

Yes, only reason i have not is i may gain BHP, but lose out on that all important torque. I have no intention of doing 1/4 mile runs. I live and commute in the country and need a bullet quick car from standstill to 80/90mph. I do not want a ultra high HP car that delivers all it's power within 2K of readline.

I had a E320CDI chipped and tuned to only 275 BHP but over 400lb of torque was an awesome machine and scared many a M3 and scooby owner that they could not get past or drop a diesel until 100mph then the higher BHP cars came into there own.

So i am nervous of putting high flow cats on for this reason, i may simply renew factory cats and run straight through on the rear...

 

Interesting i will get them to test boost pressure as well cheers guys.

 

V8STR, pop on hi-flow cats, torque remains and the throttle response is awesome.

 

How come you are swapping your H&R springs and shocks for Mina Springs and CATS shocks...?