S-Type / S type R Supercharged V8 ( X200 ) 1999 - 2008 2001 - 2009
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"Engine Coolant Low". False alarm

 
  #21  
Old 02-20-2013, 11:33 PM
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There's a bleed screw next to the cap, have you tried that?
 
  #22  
Old 02-21-2013, 07:13 AM
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Is your coolant low. Have you checked it when its cold? Also does your coolant have the proper level of coolant? A 50-50 mix of the correct coolant and distilled water is what you should be looking for.
 
  #23  
Old 02-21-2013, 08:14 AM
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Yes it is at the full mark and is 50/50 mix. But there it is building air in the reservoir? I tried the bleed screw but water mix just comes out no air the only way to get coolant light off is loosen the cap and bleed the air from there. Crazy
 
  #24  
Old 02-21-2013, 08:58 AM
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If it keeps happening you could have a head gasket leak so do a test urgently.
 
  #25  
Old 02-22-2013, 07:21 AM
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Good point. If that is the problem, you don't want to run it before getting fixed. Could cause a major $$$ issue if not repaired soon.
 
  #26  
Old 02-22-2013, 07:42 AM
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If it is the head gasket would it not run hot or something? Thanks for your help. James
 
  #27  
Old 02-22-2013, 07:52 AM
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The pressure release valve in your cap may be bad. Try a replacement cap.

If that does not fix it have your cooling system professionally examined. It is a false economy to delay repairing any cooling system problem...the negative consequences of possible overheating in these engines are just too high.
 
  #28  
Old 02-22-2013, 07:54 AM
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Same thing happened to me, had to replace everything. I was told if I didn't the pressure would be miss-calculated and could harm the engine
 
  #29  
Old 02-23-2013, 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by WhiteXKR View Post
The pressure release valve in your cap may be bad. Try a replacement cap.

If that does not fix it have your cooling system professionally examined. It is a false economy to delay repairing any cooling system problem...the negative consequences of possible overheating in these engines are just too high.
I will replace the cap first that is the reasonable thing to do and if still acting up I will take it to the jag dealer. Thanks, James
 
  #30  
Old 02-23-2013, 08:10 AM
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There was a seriously long thread about this - it turned out the float had gone porous. When the system pressurised the float sank.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cartesian_diver
The OP fixed it by adding a bit more buoyancy to the float.
 
  #31  
Old 02-23-2013, 08:25 AM
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Interesting... but he says it's "building air". That needs thorough checking.
 
  #32  
Old 02-23-2013, 08:42 AM
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Agreed 100% - unless he's just noticing the initial pressurisation.
 
  #33  
Old 07-14-2013, 11:09 AM
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Realizing this is an old Post, but seems it is a common problem. I just wanted to share my own experience w/this issue. I bought my 2006 Jag on 06/03/13, and within less than a week, I was getting the "Engine Coolant Low" Error. It THANKFULLY was still under the 90 day Warranty, so the Selling Auto Lot where I purchased it, was still responsible for the repair. I stopped by Autozone 2x's after the warning came on intermittently before it finally came on for good (knowing nothing about auto repair or autos in general), I had Autozone check the fluid levels, which they both times told me were max'd out (they also told me, if I put any more fluid in it, then I could cause an overflow, as the tanks & reservoir were full). After the selling Auto Lot looked at my Jag, they determined the code I was getting was a "False Read". I returned for the repair, but seems they tried to save $ the 1st time around and so the bought a used tank (unfortunately, the tank did not come w/a sensor..Duh! Might have wanted to check that before buying). The selling Auto Lot then purchased one new from the local Jaguar Dealership in Baton Rouge, LA (Perretti's). As I lived closer to the Jag Dealer, I volunteered to drop off their check and pick up their purchased part. The Jag Dealership sold the brand new tank to the Selling Dealership for $110.04. I went this past Thursday to have the repair done. They swapped out the tank, and it 'of course & thankfully' resolved the Error Issue!!
The cost of a new tank may be different where you are located geographically, but for anyone local to Baton Rouge, LA, the $110 is basically what you are looking at for a new tank currently, just so you can factor that into your self repair vs replace & your shop for used vs new part decision.
Good Luck & Best Regards!!
 
  #34  
Old 07-30-2018, 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by jag1023 View Post
it was the float inside the chamber that you cant get to. so i stuck a small tube in thru the openings to the far chamber and shot some air in there while it had coolant in it. the bubbles seemed to jar the float loose and all is well.(ps. before shooting air in from my air gun close mouth, so i dont drink antifreez) the stuck float idea was from another post somewhere in here, you guys are great
There's no float in the 03+ stypes. I'm not sure if you're talking about an older model but are you even talking about an stype?
 
  #35  
Old 07-31-2018, 10:12 PM
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Originally Posted by zephyrprime View Post
There's no float in the 03+ stypes. I'm not sure if you're talking about an older model but are you even talking about an stype?
05 s type 4.2 na - inside the tank there are some small chambers , one of which will house the sensor from underneath. The sensor is not in contact with the coolant but there is a small float that slides up and down and itís in the tank compartment. You can see and hear it move on an empty tank before you install it. ( I know Iíve done it twice) crappy design, it fails on a seam right below the little hose attachment at the top which is another sensitive connection, if you put too much pressure on it will crack easily. There is a thread in here that shows a step by step too. Oh and yeah someone hit the nail on the head that the float gets porous and sinks when pressurized.
 

Last edited by jag1023; 07-31-2018 at 10:16 PM.
  #36  
Old 08-02-2018, 03:08 AM
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Originally Posted by JOsworth View Post
It is probably just a bleeding issue... See, the coolant system needs to be bled of air when any service is done. Even when bled properly, you could still have bubbles in the system that will bleed out in a couple of days of use, triggering the "Check Coolant" message..

I got the same thing after a DCCV replacement. Freaked me out at first until I looked, and it was only a little down.. Added some coolant and all was fine.

I have also found that on the occasions coolant has been drained or lost and refilled after repairs. Even though the car has been left running for a while with the expansion tank cap off and the coolant level topped up until it remains fixed, for the next 2 or 3 days of use the coolant will need to be topped up every day.
 
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