Hit engine fault again a few evenings ago.

Got on the gas, merging hard, then phfffppttt, nothing, shortly thereafter lots of ding dong bells as every light and chime errupted on my dash.

So, brought a OBD scan tool home yesterday, and found 6 codes in the memory, four of which we manufacturer specific. Any help with these codes would be greatly appreciated:

P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire
P0121 - "Throttle/Pedal Position sens A ckt rng/perform"
P1316 - Manufacturer Specific DTC
P1122 - Manufacturer Specific DTC
P1344 - Manufacturer Specific DTC
P1111 - Manufacturer Specific DTC

My biggest question (outside of what the heck do those mean?) is the P0121 code. Is that a TPS code or not?

Again, any help/guidance with these would be greatly appreciated.

 

MAKE, MODEL, YEAR??????????????????????????????????????????

bob gauff

 

Oh, sorry.

My car is an 2003 Jaguar S Type R

 

Doing a bit more digging, here and there, I come up with this:

P0303 - Cylinder 3 misfire

P0121 - "Throttle/Pedal Position sens A ckt rng/perform"
Which I think means the throttle position sensor A circuit has a range/performance issue.

P1316 - Injector Circuit/IDM codes detected
Note sure here, but I bet the injectors aren't happy

P1122 - Throttle Position Sensor Circuit Intermittent Low Voltage
Sounds like a problem with the juice

P1344 - Manufacturer Specific DTC - could still use help on this one

P1111 - Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor Circuit Intermittent High Voltage
Sounds like more juice issues....

Which is all well and good, but where to start?

The car still idles rough, smoothes out with rpm (although I am not driving the car anywhere with this condition, opting for the motorbike as the weather holds), other than that, seems ok. That seems to indicate my misfire might be a spark related issue. Let's guess plug or coil?

The others all seem glitchy/electrical/ground/zappy/power kind of issues which brings me back to the battery - which was checked good at Autozone, put on a recharger/rejuvenator for a weekend, and retested at same Autozone as good again, then reinstalled after the hard reset. It would appear factory original, however, so let's go with "replace it" on this one.

The one relating to the TPS bugs me.
I've read about and experienced some of the Throttle Body issues previously. At that time, the dealer "silicone sealed" whatever the connector looked like, and I've no issue since (6 months), now this. Is there a way to determine of the TPS is "good" or not? How the hell do I even get eyes on the TB, let alone the TPS? So much plastic in the way, don't know where to find it....does the big cowling acoss the lower portion of the windshield need be removed to get access to the TB? I'd at least like to see it....

So, what thoughts are out there fellas?

I'm thinking:
#1, get a brand spanking new battery installed, see what happens.
#2, investigate plugs/coils for wear or cracking, replace as required, see what happens.
#3, Figure out where the TB lives, get eyes on it, clean it, massage it, love it, seal it, put it back in, see what happens.

I'm more than a little inclined to simply buy a new TB to see if all of my problems go away.

Open to other thoughts...

 

Only pay attention to p0121, p0303, p1122
p1111 is a rediness monitor code
for me i would check and clean connector at throttle body checking for spread or loose pins. Replaced coil for number 3 and depending on mileage plugs for all otherwise just the coil. If you have any oil in the cylinders replace cam cover gaskets.
If the tb codes come back get another throttle body

 

Wow.

Thanks for the response.

The car has 95k miles, and I'll have to check service records from PO, but I believe all the plugs were done when the supercharger was replaced (dealer replaced), only a short time ago, perhaps 1.5 yrs....~10K ago.

Interesting that you mention oil in the cylinders.....noticed my exhaust tips were coking up fairly readily....I'll defintely look into the cam cover gaskets.

Now here is a really stupid question (or a few), so please, forgive me:
1) Is there available a reference book/manual similar to a Haynes or the like?
2) In general, for the things you mention, coil, TB connector, and cam covers....does the supercharger stay on the motor, or is it in the way of, many of these items? I find myself frustrated by a sea of plastic when I pop the hood - it seems worse than a Harley with covers on top of covers.
3) Will the codes/warning lights go off has the system identifies the issues have been resolved? Or do I need to reset them with the scan tool?

Otherwise, I'd like to see the Camino also in your signature. When I'm not dinkin' with the jaguar, I try to keep my '67 Lincoln Cont. Convrt project moving forward.....although not near the extreme as yours - rat motors, yeahaa.....

 

The P0121 is for the electronic throttle. It's the pedal sensor mounted on the gas pedal. It's not common but they do go bad and you have pretty high miles.
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OKAY NOW YOU MAKE ME LOOK EVERYTHING UP
P0121 IS THROTTLE POSITION ON THROTTLE BODY, BUT
P1122 IS APP(ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION)
P1344 IS ALSO APP FAULT



P1344 EMS
OBD II
APP Sensor sense circuits APP1
and APP2 range / performance
Battery voltage > 10 volts
Ignition ON
Slowly press accelerator pedal
to the floor over a 5 second
period
Slowly return the pedal to rest
Repeat 3 times
2 R ECM Default:
– APP angle default value used
– Speed control inhibited
– APP adaptions (wear,
variance) inhibited
PI1
-102
-103
APP Sensor to ECM sense circuits:
short circuit, open circuit, high resistance
APP Sensor sensor supply circuits:
short circuit, open circuit, high resistance
APP Sensor sensor ground circuits:
open circuit
APP Sensor failure


P1122 EMS
OBD II
APP Sensor sense circuit low
voltage – APP1
Battery voltage > 10 volts
Ignition ON
Slowly press accelerator pedal
to the floor over a 5 second
period.
Slowly return the pedal to rest
Repeat 3 times
2 R ECM Default:
– APP angle default value used
– Speed control inhibited
– APP adaptions (wear,
variance) inhibited
PI1
-102
APP Sensor to ECM sense circuit (APP1):
open circuit, short circuit to ground,
high resistance
APP Sensor sensor supply circuit:
open circuit, high resistance
APP sensor failure


P0121 EMS
OBD II
TP Sensor range / performance
(TP1 compared to TP2)
Battery voltage > 10 volts
Ignition ON
Slowly press accelerator pedal
to the floor over a 5 second
period
Slowly return the pedal to rest
Repeat 3 times
2 R ECM Default:
– Throttle motor and throttle
motor relay disabled
– Throttle valve opening set to
default value
– Idle speed controlled by fuel
injection intervention
– Idle speed adaption inhibited
PI1
-075
-076
TP Sensor to ECM wiring:
open circuit, high resistance
TP Sensor to ECM sensing circuits (TP1 or
TP2): short circuit to B+ voltage
TP sensor failure

you have 2 APP failure codes so start there, disconnect and reconnect, make sure harness is out of the way of the brake pedal assembly up in the top. and Im reffering to oil in the spark plug wells, not the cylinders.

 

Ok, so, all good info, thanks much.

Sorry, the data only brings more questions. Regarding the Accelerator Pedal Position codes, am I supposed to go through the pedal positioning process as described above, or rather disconnect/reconnect the sensors located somewhere north of the brake pedal assembly, or just do the disconnect/reconnect?

What are the expectations after having completed this sequence? How do we verify effective?

Right now, outside of the lumpy idle speeds, the pedal response seems correct. Does the above process essentially "zero out" or "reset" the pedal parameters vs. throttle opening the vehicle may have adapted to over time?

Addressing the coil for a missfire makes sense to me.

Not real sure what result I'm looking for within this process........

Thanks again for all the help, just trying to understand.

Kind Regards.

 

No by disc/connecting connectors you clean them and there is unseen corrion/oxidation that can cause voltage drop out. I just delt with this yesturday with a hard fault on seat air bag. Disconnected and reconnected the air bag and fixed the fault.
What im talking about above the brake pedal is years ago we had issues with the stypes with thses kinds of pedal position faults and it was the harness came loose or incorrectly routed hanging down and getting hit by the upper brake pedal assembly. But you disconnect the connector on the gas pedal. There are 2 or 3 10mm nuts holdin it to the floor. You can unbolt the assembly if you cant disconnect the connector easily. Codes dont clear with battery disconnect, you have to clear with a scanner. Sine its a intermittent fault youll only have problems when its acting up, not any other time. Nothing changes, but its the start of )and might be the end of for the pedal fault if youre lucky) the diag process......

 

Here is the DTC summary for your car

bob gauff

 

You really really really need to find out EXACTLY what was and wasn't done. I'd pay for the details if it were my car and they wouldn't just tell me (but haven't had to).

You have so many codes that I'd go for a power problem - 95% likely the battery but could be bad connection batt+ or ground.

Hunt for workshop manual (not Haynes). Includes the DTC data and so much more (maintenance schedule etc).

It sounds like you also have a bad coil but see which if any were replaced - my bet would be None

 

Nuts.

Ok, checked records. New blower installed on 02/17/10. At 83K. At that time plugs were done, but not coils or valve cover gaskets.

However, upon removing coil #3, I found the entire tip coated in oil, with further oil witness on the valve cover around #1. Driver side valve cover shows same indications.

So, I suspect my thread regarding diagnosis will end, as I pursue valve cover gasket replacement.

With the StypeR, it would appear that the intercoolers need be removed to get the valve covers off, correct?

Should be able to get a good look at the TB at this time as well.....

Below is the passenger side bank, as well as coil #3

 

Looks like you found the problem!

Sorry, don't know what needs to come off but JTIS likely says (somewhere.....).

 

Jar:
JagV8 has a great suggestion! Do you have the JTIS (Jaguar Technical Information Service) disc? They are on EBay for less than $10 including shipping. The best $10 you will spend!!

Also please post back with your results and where you got parts/prices. The STR is now getting to the age where valve cover gaskets, coils and plugs will need to be replaced. I highly recommend using Nalley for the parts. They are a forum sponsor and I have ordered over $1300 worth of parts from Dan and have nothing but good words for him and Nalley!!!

I also have a Lincoln LS and this is probably THE most common repair and/or problem for this car. The Lincoln guys have got the 8 coils down to less than $200 compared to $60+ each from the Ford dealer.

Brutal:
As always the correct answer! Thanks for the detail and sorry to muddy the waters!!
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Thanks all for the help.

As I progress I will post pics and updates - will likely start a new thread and post complete.

Yah, I need to track down a JTIS - I hit the link in the faq, downloaded the 9 files from the media whatever site, but was unsuccessful in getting that info to work - I suspect operating system to have something to do with it.

Club - no muddy waters, when it's a bit of a guessing game all reasonable thoughts are welcome - start with the funnel wide, narrow it down. Likely to be other issues hanging out, as it seems as a guy knocks one down, always another. The pedal sensor needs to be checked yet....

Pulled a few covers yesterday, and snaked the cast induction tube off the top of the motor - mostly because I wanted to put eyes on the TB. Go figure, the thing is absolutely filthy. I suspect I know the answer to these next questions, but I'll ask anyway:
1) Is there an easy way to fish the cast intake section off the top of the motor? We were able to do it, but she's a tight unit, and I'm not looking forward to putting it back in....would be nice to know if there is a "trick" to dealing with this piece.
2) Is there a straightforward way to remove the TB? Would like to clean and inspect thouroughly. In looking at what I could see, my guess is that it is not a "top down" mounting config, but rather an "in from the back" type, which would mean loosening the belts and removing the intake manifold assembly with the blower and all the business to get at it....of course that kind of answers number one (but isn't what I would call an "easy way").

Realllllllly considering a new TB - would suck to do all this for the valve covers only to hit another TB code.....

 

You may not mean "new TB" - check the price

I recall (poorly) quite a bit of interesting detail about stripping parts off being posted by user twotees - hmm, think that's ttwotees. Because of having to change the coolant hose that's under the SC. Brutal chipped in some really useful stuff, too. (I have it bookmarked but not on this computer!) A Search on something like
supercharger hose
(or coolant or ...) or the user name should find it.

 

dont replace the coil, thats a new design and the oil is causing the misfire. replace cam cover gaskets both side. clean the spark plug wells out of all oil. intercoolers stay on, and is a straight forward gasket replacement for cam covers. I would swap coils on 3 and another to see if it moves with coil, but after cleaning I doubt youll have another issue. But if you do they a 5 minute job to replace. The throttle body the Stype R is not fun. I would clean connectors and seal back side of connector. There have been bulletins and reports of water coming down off the windshirld past the wiper cowl and hitting the connector causing issue. Put duct tape over the holes that are over the TB, beflow the windshield, visible after removing the wiper cowl. Try cleaningthe TB after the engine is at operating temp with a old toothbrush and a little Tb cleaner. This isnt your P0121 issue, but if that dirty it should be done anyway. Who knows maybe it stuck just enough to cause a throttle position correlation fault.

 

Thanks for the suggestions.

I very much like having a path to follow.

I'm with you 100% on the coil.

The TB just makes me nervous - and it is filthy, too bad it is so buried in there. I have had one fault, guessing due to moisture, as such occured during a rain storm on the highway. The dealer along my roadtrip siliconed the TB connector (passenger side, the big one), so I was able to confirm that with the amount of dissassembly I've done so far. "Filthy" = a dark, visible ring about .25" wide around the ID of the TB, just above the butterfly.

Regarding the wiper cowl - looks like the wiper arms come off, then a series of plastic push rivets to get the piece off, correct?

Really glad to hear the intercoolers don't have to come off.

Any tips for dealing with the cast intake tract that passes over the motor? Got it out, but not looking forward to fishing it back in.....wasn't fun - much more scraping noises than I typically like to generate....

Planning on sourcing bits and pieces this week, and hopefully get started pulling stuff apart around Wed or perhaps earlier.

Again, thanks for all the help. My intent is to take photos along the way, so others pursuing this adventure can have some visual reference.

 

The plastic push pins and the restangular cover have torx screw underneath. On the inlet its a pia only to seat into the rubber boot without distortion. Lube the rubber to ease install and then holding the clamps up squarly