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Fail safe Engine mode

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  #41  
Old 12-10-2013, 05:51 AM
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I have no idea if it was just tarnished or not.. from the way he explained it the electric diagrams for slot 10 and 11 are listed incorrectly for the jobs that they do. We ourselves had pulled each fuse and check all of them from a-z in all 3 compartments. none of them were bad and all of them according to our diagrams had the correct amps. I just know that he said that slot 11 was the one that went to the throttle body and was the wrong amps. Replaced with the right one and it worked.

New problem though we are having issues with trying to start the car pretty much every time we get into it now. The car sounds like it has engine kill initiated but after like 5 mins of trying it finally will kick over but sounds as if it is misfiring when it does start. Turn off the car and start right back up and it sounds fine.. so guessing now time to change the spark plugs or.....what else should we look to change??

It is a 2002 Jaguar s-type 3.0 6
 
  #42  
Old 12-10-2013, 09:58 AM
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Ideas:
bad battery
bad fuel pump
air leak

If fuel trims are OK, then not air leak.
 
  #43  
Old 12-10-2013, 11:28 PM
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Default Having worked on a 05 jaguar s type

I would FIRST look at your electrical connection.....the wiring on these cars is of such poor quality that is laughable!
 
  #44  
Old 12-11-2013, 03:57 AM
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And yet most faults are not electrical even on cars 13 years old. Odd. Could you be wrong I wonder...

We have had wiring faults reported, but rarely. Biggest failure is not a wiring fault but the DCCV made by a firm that once was reliable - Bosch - but now seems poor.

Next common failure may be coils - made by Japanese firm Denso.

These aren't wiring faults, though.
 

Last edited by JagV8; 12-11-2013 at 03:59 AM.
  #45  
Old 12-11-2013, 10:27 AM
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Originally Posted by Lt0302
I would FIRST look at your electrical connection.....the wiring on these cars is of such poor quality that is laughable!
I will respectfully disagree with that....... at least since 1995. The only exception I can think of might be the harness attached to the frt bumper reinforcement, behind the cover; mostly on S-Types. Weather and moisture sometimes migrates in and causes some corrosion and seemingly weird problems. Other than that, not much.

Cheers,
 
  #46  
Old 12-11-2013, 10:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Lt0302
I would FIRST look at your electrical connection.....the wiring on these cars is of such poor quality that is laughable!
In looking at your previous posts, I see no mention of wiring difficulties with your car.

Did somebody pee in your cornflakes this morning?
 
  #47  
Old 12-11-2013, 11:58 AM
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Originally Posted by Mikey
Did somebody pee in your cornflakes this morning?
I wondered the same thing.
 
  #48  
Old 12-11-2013, 01:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikey
In looking at your previous posts, I see no mention of wiring difficulties with your car.

Funny enough I checked his previous posts as well this morning.
 
  #49  
Old 12-11-2013, 03:39 PM
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Default That is because I had to work them out

Originally Posted by Mikey
In looking at your previous posts, I see no mention of wiring difficulties with your car.

Did somebody pee in your cornflakes this morning?

but here they are:

engine head gasket replaced along with all the gaskets. the wiring fell apart during dissaembly very brittle I will post some pictures! wire from coil eight came out of the connector (good luck finding the connector) luckily my elise had the same connectors so I got lucky! P0300, P1316, P1646/47, P2135. The only one that had me going for 2 days was the P2135 read about it, all said clean connectors in the TB......took TB apart not much to look at or test.....hooked the little motor to the battery and it operated so it was good! Turns out that the electrical connector on which the clamp has been broken off, God knows when, was sliding down when the engine was running! however when pushed back on nothing changed the engine was idling at 1100 rpms and sometimes it would fluctuate....pulled the wires out of the connector and hooked it up to the TB and voila everything is working!

Now the car threw a P1636, but the O2 sensors are OEM so gotta track that down...car runs fine except for that code.

Like I said before Car had 8 years of trouble free run, till the radiator leak and the stuff that came with that!

suspension was shot: new bushings all, new ball joints all, new Bilstein B6 all around.......ride is good, firm and confident.

My next step is to get a new wiring loom from the junkyard and have my body redoit....he does excellent work, not cheap but worth the investment IMHO!
 
  #50  
Old 12-11-2013, 03:42 PM
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Default as far as somebody peeing in my cornflakes

Originally Posted by Mikey
In looking at your previous posts, I see no mention of wiring difficulties with your car.

Did somebody pee in your cornflakes this morning?

You still eat cornflakes in Canada?
 
  #51  
Old 12-11-2013, 03:44 PM
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Default since you are wondering

Originally Posted by Norri
I wondered the same thing.
No! had a good morning run! Exercised the deamons on this forum!
 
  #52  
Old 12-11-2013, 04:19 PM
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Why in the world would replace old wiring with another wire loom the same age?

What do you expect to be different between the two?

Have you even looked at an S Type? I would NOT try to swap the wiring harness out on an S Type or any other modern car. It's just too complicated and the chance for errors almost guarantee’s you are creating problems.
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  #53  
Old 12-11-2013, 04:23 PM
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Default Ok Sherlock

Originally Posted by tbird6
Why in the world would replace old wiring with another wire loom the same age?

What do you expect to be different between the two?

Have you even looked at an S Type? I would NOT try to swap the wiring harness out on an S Type or any other modern car. It's just too complicated and the chance for errors almost guarantee’s you are creating problems.
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Let me enlighten you! Buy used one, take to wiring shop, have them redo the wiring and replace connectors!
Now the fact that YOU can not do it that is for another thread!
 
  #54  
Old 12-11-2013, 04:30 PM
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Great, How many thousands of dollars will that cost?

And again to get what? The wiring is no different from any other car. Car companies do not make wiring and they all use the same suppliers.
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  #55  
Old 12-11-2013, 05:11 PM
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Originally Posted by tbird6
Great, How many thousands of dollars will that cost?

And again to get what? The wiring is no different from any other car. Car companies do not make wiring and they all use the same suppliers.
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600 for labor and wire + whatever new connectors you buy! We are talking about a jaguar where nothing is cheap!
 
  #56  
Old 12-12-2013, 02:07 AM
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It's really odd how this is the only example in my 5 years here. I suppose someone has to be different. You're unlucky.
 
  #57  
Old 12-12-2013, 10:13 AM
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Default That could be - there is bound to be a bad one in the bunch

Originally Posted by JagV8
It's really odd how this is the only example in my 5 years here. I suppose someone has to be different. You're unlucky.
The car till the overheating event, according to grandpa, has been fairly trouble free.......DCCV valve was replaced by dealer under warranty in 2006 and in 2007 it got a new fuel tank, speedometer and some kind of rear drivetrain warranty work, 2010 new ac compressor, 2012 at 100K miles new coils, spark plugs and fuel filter and that is it besides regular maintenace.

Once the radiator crapped and got into disassembly I ran into the issues that I mentioned.

Now that is done I learned a lot about the car, been a car person all my life...no real preferences..........if it has a motor and 4 wheels I like it!
 
  #58  
Old 12-19-2013, 08:11 PM
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havent read all the comments here but i had the same problem with mine when i got it in september but my solution was rather simple. I STOPPED USING REGULAR OR MD GRADE FUEL !!!!.... mine had a check engine light on and kept fail safe engine mode 98% of the time while driving and i had to pull off the road and turn the car off and back on to even move it but it would continue..Then one day i decided to put PREMIUM FUEL wich is what the car is suppose to run on... the next day or so it ran better... within 3 days the car cleared up and all the check lights went off.... no problem every since... so to all S-type owners with this problem...Use Premium fuel even though its higher
 
  #59  
Old 12-20-2013, 12:27 AM
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Default Same problem on xf resolved it

hi I had the same problem on my xf and all I had to do was change the battery. A low voltage can make this kind of things happen.


hope you will resolve it !
 
  #60  
Old 12-20-2013, 03:38 AM
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If a different grade fixed it I'm puzzled - or were the other grades lower than the minimum Jaguar specify? (Different country here, we use other names, other measures.)

The fuel trims (LTFT) would be interesting. Something feels wrong, if only marginally.

(And yes you can get all manner of weirdness if battery failing.)
 


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