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First trip to the tire store

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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 07:20 PM
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Default First trip to the tire store

and I draw the dumbest monkey with the wrench. Rotate and balance, torque to 100 psi was my order. On the VERY FIRST LUG, this moron breaks it in half. On the second lug, this moron ruins the cap. At that point, they came and said it needed to go to Jaguar because they couldn't get the lugs off. OK, so I called Jag and they can't get them off either but gave me a number and name to call. Called the man and he said yes, at $75/hour with a $120 minimum he could do it and not damage the wheel.


So, last night, in my garage, I decided to see how bad this was. Afterall, there are only 18 lugs left. Right? I used my marine spray free and sprayed the backs inside and then my hex sided 3/4 socket and 39 inch pry bar. Gently rocking them after tapping each one with a covered hammer, they all came off just fine. Since I couldn't rotate 3 wheels, I just cleaned them, put anti seize on them and torqued them at 100 psi.


Now to the two lugs. I've ordered an 18mm Bolt Extractor for one. (The thin cover is off) and I am thinking about using a 12mm hole saw and go right down the center of the wheel and cut off the outside of the lugnut, slide the wheel off, clean the rest off and remount the wheel. If that fails, I'll call "the man" and give away $120.


No more Firestone tire company for me.
 
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Old Feb 20, 2015 | 10:56 PM
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Sounds like whomever put them on last overtightened them and may have cross threaded one as well. The caps being damaged is a very common problem as well, also probably caused by whomever over torqued them last time. Anti-seize on lug stud threads is definitely not recommended ever, as the torque value will change when there is another medium introduced to the threads. Torquing a wheel to 100 ft.-lbs. (which is what I'm assuming you mean) when the threads are clean is not the same when they are covered in some sort of paste.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 08:49 AM
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The OEM lugnuts are well known to fail in the manner you describe, even when treated in the most gentle manner by the most skilled person. I wouldn't be too quick to blame the tire store. This subject has been discussed extensively with a selection of simple work-arounds offered.

The correct torque for the lugnuts is 92 ft/lbs, not 100. Torque is measure in foot pounds, not psi.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 10:14 AM
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And that's a dry torque. (Calculate a reduced torque if going against jag's specific advice to not use anything.)
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 05:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Mikey

The correct torque for the lugnuts is 92 ft/lbs, not 100. Torque is measure in foot pounds, not psi.



I knew that. I really, really knew that. Once I get this wheel off, I'll clean them up and do 92 ft lbs. I have a breaker torque wrench so it is difficult to mess it up even using psi.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by QuartzSTypeR
Sounds like whomever put them on last overtightened them and may have cross threaded one as well.





My own torque wrench was breaking at 180 to get the other 18 off. Is there a better lug nut that can be used? This two piece style seems to have some weaknesses. But, I've never had a car with this style so I am still learning.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 06:05 PM
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There surely is and there are a host of threads on the subject you can start here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...g-nuts-136468/
 
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Old Feb 21, 2015 | 06:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Norri
There surely is and there are a host of threads on the subject you can start here https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...g-nuts-136468/





Thank you for this information. I also put in a new battery today. This car had the original battery in it but was sounding weak on start. After 15 years, I am surprised it didn't just up and die. Pretty good battery to last that long.
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 12:13 PM
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That may be the oldest battery on these cars yet!
 
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Old Feb 23, 2015 | 05:57 PM
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Originally Posted by JagV8
That may be the oldest battery on these cars yet!




With such low mileage, I guess it rested a lot. It was weak and needed to go so I could go when I wanted to.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2015 | 04:53 PM
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UPDATE: Broken lug. Plan One was to use a 12 hole saw and drill around the stud, remove the wheel and then use vice grips to remove what was left. Plan Two was to have J & B Welding come out and remove the lug. I chose Plan Two. This guy is an expert at wheel removal. No damage to the lug or the wheel and done in less than 30 minutes.


How did he do it? He sprayed a coating on the work area to prevent burn. Next he welded a new nut on the stump. Finally, he used my monster pry bar and it came right off.


I washed off the wheel with brake cleaner and then soap and water. Put the wheel back on with a slight amount of anti-seize and torqued to 92 FP's. I called the dealer and thanked them for giving me the welder's name and asked about anti seize. They didn't have any issues.


All done. Cost $120 for a house call. I thought that was fair.
 
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