Green Antifreeze in vehicle
#1
Green Antifreeze in vehicle
I have green antifreeze in my coolant system. I need to change my DCCV. Should I get the system flushed and have the proper antifreeze installed?
Can I do a full flush of the system without the worry of still having both coolants in the system?
Can I leave the green in the system, will it cause an issue?
I'm in Atlanta, Georgia USA, and it is getting pretty hot, so I'm in need of doing this soon. I'm not going to replace until I know about which coolant is going in.
Thanks in advance.
Can I do a full flush of the system without the worry of still having both coolants in the system?
Can I leave the green in the system, will it cause an issue?
I'm in Atlanta, Georgia USA, and it is getting pretty hot, so I'm in need of doing this soon. I'm not going to replace until I know about which coolant is going in.
Thanks in advance.
#2
#3
I might just send it to a shop (Jaguar specialist) or the dealership.
#4
If your DCCV is not working, I'd recommend unplugging it in hopes of saving the climate control module. Jon is correct in all 3 points above: 1) Some coolants allegedly can mix with any others without causing this: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...talled-180124/
2) Since you don't know what you've got you need flush it all out
3) The spec stuff is always the safe bet
*However* I have flushed everything (active) in my signature list with distilled water and commonized on Zerex G-05 with no problems associated from either S-Type.
2) Since you don't know what you've got you need flush it all out
3) The spec stuff is always the safe bet
*However* I have flushed everything (active) in my signature list with distilled water and commonized on Zerex G-05 with no problems associated from either S-Type.
#5
If your DCCV is not working, I'd recommend unplugging it in hopes of saving the climate control module. Jon is correct in all 3 points above: 1) Some coolants allegedly can mix with any others without causing this: https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...talled-180124/
2) Since you don't know what you've got you need flush it all out
3) The spec stuff is always the safe bet
*However* I have flushed everything (active) in my signature list with distilled water and commonized on Zerex G-05 with no problems associated from either S-Type.
2) Since you don't know what you've got you need flush it all out
3) The spec stuff is always the safe bet
*However* I have flushed everything (active) in my signature list with distilled water and commonized on Zerex G-05 with no problems associated from either S-Type.
#6
About 12 gal of distilled water should set you right unless you find evidence of gel/gunk due to coolant mixing. Then you may need to use a flush chemical.
Drain the radiator at the draincock. Refill with distilled water. (probably 2 or 2.5 gal)
Run it up to operating temp. Shutdown and drain. Rinse and repeat until what you are draining out looks very nearly like the distilled you are putting in.
Drain one last time and top up with your chosen coolant. You need to use full-strength, not 50/50 pre-mix as you already have the system about half-full of distilled water.
Drain the radiator at the draincock. Refill with distilled water. (probably 2 or 2.5 gal)
Run it up to operating temp. Shutdown and drain. Rinse and repeat until what you are draining out looks very nearly like the distilled you are putting in.
Drain one last time and top up with your chosen coolant. You need to use full-strength, not 50/50 pre-mix as you already have the system about half-full of distilled water.
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joycesjag (04-27-2017)
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#11
With all due respect to Mikey, @88 cents/gal I wouldn't "save" the distilled. Even if you do, you'll want to flush the tap water from the system......which will take about 12 gal of distilled, but you'll have lost "color" as a differentiator. Even if you want greater purity, it isn't that expensive if you double the distilled.
#12
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#13
Well....If you insist on doing it RIGHT......
I don't know, Mikey, supposedly not much. I've never had any luck finding the engine block drains on either my X300's nor the X202's despite sevice documentation in-hand telling me where they are supposed to be; let alone access to actuate them!
But a good point, draining only through the radiator, you will ALWAYS have some small amount of "old" in the system, however dilute. Even with the block drains open I imagine the heater core will hold a slug of old.
*Full disclosure, I am on a well with 45 gr hardness. Consequently, everything runs through a softener, though I do have one un-softened tap available (potentially for a future sprinkler sys installation) but even the softened water is highly corrosive. So I have an incentive not to introduce my tap water into the cooling system.
I don't know, Mikey, supposedly not much. I've never had any luck finding the engine block drains on either my X300's nor the X202's despite sevice documentation in-hand telling me where they are supposed to be; let alone access to actuate them!
But a good point, draining only through the radiator, you will ALWAYS have some small amount of "old" in the system, however dilute. Even with the block drains open I imagine the heater core will hold a slug of old.
*Full disclosure, I am on a well with 45 gr hardness. Consequently, everything runs through a softener, though I do have one un-softened tap available (potentially for a future sprinkler sys installation) but even the softened water is highly corrosive. So I have an incentive not to introduce my tap water into the cooling system.
#14
I went to a well respected radiator shop that I've used, and they state that it is a universal gold antifreeze. I do not have to drain the fluid from his recommendation.
I originally asked how much it would cost for him to drain and refill the system. That was when he stated that it wasn't necessary.
Now I just need to replace the DCCV and CCM for A/C and top off and bleed system. GREAT!
I originally asked how much it would cost for him to drain and refill the system. That was when he stated that it wasn't necessary.
Now I just need to replace the DCCV and CCM for A/C and top off and bleed system. GREAT!
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