So I was getting restricted performance p0301 and p0304 codes in my 2006 3.0 V6 S-type (70,000 mi) and the car was idling very rough. I decided to change the spark plugs, coil packs, manifold gaskets, and valve cover gaskets. Also I changed the fuel filter and cabin air filter.

Now I started the car up and the idle is very rough and stalls out. I turned the key to on and off a few times to get the air out of the gas line from changing the fuel filter and disconnecting the fuel rail to change lower manifold gaskets.

I put in:
Autolite XP103 spark plugs .050"
NGK 48924 coil packs


The original plugs that were in the car were NGK OEM and the gap on these were closer to .045". Is it possible the new Autolite plugs are gapped too large and the gap is causing the car to start up, idle rough and high rpm, then stall out? Could it be caused by air stuck in the fuel line from working on the fuel system?

 

Welcome. When you get a chance, it is customary to post an "intro" in the New Members section. In terms of spark plug gap, this should help:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Auto...sb_09_2003.pdf

Page 22 of the 'pdf" (page 19 on the internal page numbering) details spark plugs and the necessary gap. In terms of air being introduced into the fuel system, that would be cleared pretty quickly upon start-up. Have you checked your fuel trims? You may have introduced a vacuum leak when doing the repairs that you have detailed. Your DTCs indicate misfires on cylinders #1 and #4; you might want to go back and check your work on these cylinders.

 

Did you disconnect the battery during all of this recent work? It's important to do that, because this resets the fuel scheduling back to preprogrammed values. Once you've driven the car a few drive cycles, fueling will adjust to present conditions. But without this reset, the poor computer doesn't know what you've done, and may still be shutting off fuel to cylinders 1 and 4, unaware the misfire condition has (hopefully) been corrected.

Also, are you getting any codes now? Same ones or new?

 

I did disconnect the battery during repairs. I am getting misfire codes on all cylinders now. I will look over work to check for any air leaks. I have not checked fuel trims - will have to see how, can my obd meter do this?

Could it be due to the system not liking my new iridium plugs? I find it odd the spec is 0.051"-0.057", the OEMs were closer to 0.045", and my new Autolite iridium plugs are at .0.051".

 

I am running NGK Iridium plugs in my 2003 S-type with no issues. As far as your code reader goes, being able to detail fuel trims is dependent of the features of the unit; a basic reader may not, but a more complex reader may... You should consult the documentation for your reader, or plug it in and scroll through the menu of functions. Many cheaper readers do not have "live data" capabilities.

 

it starts right up but quickly dies out and tailpipes shake a bit as it’s misfiring.

 

Use a smart phone with the Torque app connected to the PCM via the OBD port with a Bluetooth interface to determine the fuel pressure. It should be slightly over 3 bar when the ignition is turned to the ON position without engaging the starter.

Here are the fuel system specifications for the X200/X202:

 

As others have pointed out, check to see if there isn't a massive air leak from one of the vacuum hoses and that the connection from the MAF to the upper inlet manifold is correct and tight.

Use the Torque app to read fuel trims as they can point to a vacuum leak as well.

 

So I gave the car a better listen and sounds like a lot of air leaving the engine when starting up and stalling out. I am leaning toward the gaskets for the valve cover electronic connections (can someone please help me with this part). I believe the rubber tore as I pulled the covers off. Can someone point me in the right direction for replacing these two gaskets?

 

Okay, so i've pinned down the VVT rubber seals, they had tore when I took the valve cover off. Now it looks like the outer old vvt seal baked into the hole. Anyone have any recommendations for taking out the stuck portion of the seal?

 

I'm not familiar with that seal. (my thought was also vacuum leak)

For taking them out I'd just carefully use two picks. One to dig / bend and the other to pull.

 

I managed to tap a thin screw driver behind the metal ring and bend it in and rip it out with needle nose pliers. the sucker was in there good.

Could someone point me in the direction of the part number for this gasket? Hoping this is the cause, as it was easy to change them without taking anything apart.

 

The part is called a "Solenoid to Cover Grommet AJ82577"

One thought though: If you changed the coil-packs and plugs on both banks, you would have needed to remove the intake manifold; did you replace the oval manifold seals and get the attaching bolts back in the exact same sequence (they do have different lengths in some locations) ?

 

Change the VVT solenoid grommets on both cam covers. In addition, check the vacuum line to the brake booster as the grommet at the booster sometimes perishes and allows air to enter.

 

I did change the upper and lower intake manifold seals and followed the sequence for the manifold bolts. I checked out the brake booster pvc line and all looks connected correctly. I just ordered the VVT seals from Jagbits and will report back once installed next week.

 

I put the new VVT seals in and nothing. I am hearing a loud hiss from the back manifold but aren’t sure if it’s coming from the back of the manifold, the lower manifold, or the valve covers. Anyone have suggestions for pinpointing the leak before i go ahead and dismantle and go back over my work?

 

A smoke test would most likely pinpoint the offending area that needs to be properly sealed. IMT seal rings are at the back of the manifold. Have these been refreshed?

 

I think I will try out a smoke test to pinpoint it. I did also change the IMT rings..

 

Are the breather hoses fully seated in the cam covers?

 

Hallelujah- I did a smoke test at the air intake (DIY using a transfer pump and cigar) and found a missing air hose connection under front of the manifold . It probably should have been the first thing I reconnected but had missed it. No smoke leaked from the cam covers or the intake manifold which is good to know, you live and you learn, at least this made me realize the VVT seals were shot as well.... I took it for a 20 mile drive and drove great! Going to take it out again and get it up to speed on the highway today. Now on to the water leak in the boot.. Cheers!