Help with sway bar bushing replacement on 2002 3.0 S-Type
Sway bar bushings are worn and need to be replaced. The passenger side one is the worst. The drive side bushing was not a problem to remove, but the passenger side is a going to be a pain. The bolt on the backside of the bracket is directly under the heater core valve. I can't figure out any way I can extract this bold without taking the heater core valve and the bracket it sits on out. I installed this heater core valve a couple of years ago and I really don't feel like going through that whole process again just to get to a bolt. If I absolutely have to take out the heater core valve i'll do it. I'm trying to sell my jag but everyone who drives it is put off by the vibration from these bushings.
The pictures below shows the bushing bracket. I already removed the bolt on the front side but the bolt on the back is where I've having a problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

The pictures below shows the bushing bracket. I already removed the bolt on the front side but the bolt on the back is where I've having a problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Just did both of ours.
Tap off in both cases, bracket bent upwards as needed to allow access to that DUMB bolt. Bushes done, bracket bent down again, taps refitted. Engines run up to temp to burb teh system. JD opened and consumed.
4 hours for both cars, sweet as.
Tap off in both cases, bracket bent upwards as needed to allow access to that DUMB bolt. Bushes done, bracket bent down again, taps refitted. Engines run up to temp to burb teh system. JD opened and consumed.
4 hours for both cars, sweet as.
I just did the sway bar bushings and end links on my 2002 S-Type this past weekend.
I removed the two 10mm bolts that hold the DCCV valve bracket to the car frame. Then was able to push the bracket, valve, and hoses out of the way enough to get the socket on the head of the bolt. I found it was easiest to use about two feet of ratchet extensions from the top of the engine compartment to remove the bushing bracket bolts.
One of the DCCV bracket bolts was really tough to access, so I only put one back in to hold it...
I removed the two 10mm bolts that hold the DCCV valve bracket to the car frame. Then was able to push the bracket, valve, and hoses out of the way enough to get the socket on the head of the bolt. I found it was easiest to use about two feet of ratchet extensions from the top of the engine compartment to remove the bushing bracket bolts.
One of the DCCV bracket bolts was really tough to access, so I only put one back in to hold it...
Last edited by v12mike; Dec 1, 2014 at 09:45 AM. Reason: typo
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