Hello

This is my first post but I have been following this forum few months now and it has been great help for me.

I am starting to change the hose under the super charger. Car is 2004 model. This showed up when removing hoses.

What I am supposed to think of this "jelly like" stuff? It was only (so far) in this position, coolant was clear orange when I drained it and other hoses clean.

 

Mixing in coolant with incorrect specs is often known to cause gelling as you are seeing. Flush the system out thoroughly and once all your hoses are intact again, refill with the proper coolant. Check your owners manual for the correct specs....

 

+1. This looks like the results of a chemical reaction between two coolant types....or even worse, some "stop leak" snake oil. Does more damage than good. Do as Jon89 advises above.

 

Thanks for your comments about coolant.

Now finally got the sc out. But. One wire is broken.

Any hints how the insert in the plug comes out? Need to solder the wire back.

Or any other ideas how to get it fixed? Wire got of where it was soldered.

 

I don't know that specific plug, but they're all about the same as far as I've seen. Pull off the red piece then you'll find a small slot at each terminal. Insert a small tool or piece of wire that fits snugly into the slot and push or pull the terminal out. On the terminal you'll find a little tab that locks in the slot, bend it back out a little so it re-locks securely when you assemble. Crimping is better than soldering, but if you must solder use only enough to make it secure and not so much that it wicks up the wire.

As for the goo, I'd hit that fitting with a vacuum then flush water through it and whatever connects to it to get as much out of there as possible.

Edit: give the other wires a test tug to make sure they're ok before you call it done.

 

What might be the reason to first have 17.5 mm inner diameter hose and then have reduction to 8 mm and then rest of the hose being 10 mm of inner diameter?

Isn't there pressure rising just in that area where hose is bulging? Causing that coolant want to go like in my drawing?

What do you thing?

What if I put another clamp just over this critical point?

 

Most of them fail in the big section. Within an inch or two of the clamp.
It's a standard ECD (ElectroChemical Degration) failure.

Diagnosing and resolving car coolant hose problems | Gates Europe

Forget the clamp just replace the hose. Not sure why or how Jaguar decided to make that hose that way. I wish they had used a metal tube under the SC and then just a short rubber hose to the throttle body. Would have saved hours of time when replacing it.
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I think it would be worth installing a clamp, may not cure it, but would probably help. I'm tackling my SC today for a coolant leak, I'm about 1 1/2 hours in. My hoses were replaced by the PO not long ago, my leak seems to be at the water neck right in front of the SC, unfortunately the space is just a bit too tight to get the neck off without pulling the SC unless I can tilt it up a little.

I haven't figured out yet if I can get to the back bolts of the SC without removing all the stuff at the back-throttle body, EGR, ect. Any idea if it's possible or just bite the bullet and take everything off?

 

Mine had just a tiny bit of stuff in there. That fitting goes nowhere, maybe on another application something else connects to it. Since it's a dead end I can see stuff accumulating there.

 

There is two hoses available, OEM Jaguar hose and third party hose. Jaguar hose is still similar to that one in the car. Third party looks different in the big end.

Is there any feedback which one is better?

 

No. We have had people use both with no problems. I think you are talking about the URO brand hose?

That port is not a dead end at all and is your intercooler circuit. See that big hex plug on top of it? If you read Jaguar says to unscrew that to bleed the intercooler system. I never have had to because the intercooler circuit always self bleeds for me.

I would flush that very well to get the best cooling you can. We are very heat limited with the M112 blower.

The clamp won't help because the leak is caused by an internal failure. In other words the bulge is the symptom not the problem. So you will get the leak anyway.
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On mine it's a dead end. It does have the big plug on top, but it seems if they'd built that connection to just be a bleeder it wouldn't be so big. Looks like it was intended to be a connection for something else.

 

If it's a dead end you have big problems! That means you have no circulation in the intercooler circuit.
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Each intercooler has two nipples where the water circulates, that bigger one with the big allen bolt on top goes nowhere, dead end.

 

Is it the one circled in red?

 

Yup. But mine doesn't have the red circle so it must be different.

 

Yes it was easy to fix after removing the red thing first. Thanks for the hint.

 

Do you want me to send you one?

 

Yup Yup Yup!