Hi thanks to everyone for your responces. Nothing has progressed. Will keep you posted

 

OK as it stands now.

My friend has taken it apart down to the chains and tensioners.

1st He drove the car maybe 100 yards or so to get it back in his driveway. He said that when he started the car it was at first noisy but when he got it in his driveway it was quiet. He then revved it up it was making noises again. I wasnt there to record it but I believe he said that the noise occurred when he let off the gas.

2nd He has reinstalled the crank locking tool. and the cam flats are pointing up.

3rd Passenger side secondary timing chain is loose on top. I can take my finger and lift it up and down. Is this normal. i will try and get video (Also he thought the new passenger side secondary tensioner might be deffective. is there a way to check this. ) at one point we started the engine without the engine passenger valve cover on and oil shot up out of a hole in the tensioner.

4th With regards to the serpartine belt one of the metal rollers has seperated from the center metal part. I will try to get a picture perhaps this was the cause of the squeaking noise.

5th Shorter bolts on secondary tensioners.. I will double check to see if the new shorter bolts were installed. 50//50

Question Can the crank be locked with the flat part of the cams be facing up and the timing still not be correct. perhaps because the VVTs were not set to retarded. He says he retarted the vvts. I only have one cam lockdown tool and he mentioned when setting up the timing he said he had to move the drivers side by hand.

 

Wrong bolts were in the secondary tensioners.

1- I found that my friend had installed the old longer bolts in the secondary tensioners. So we took the old bolts out and put the shorter ones in.

2 removed the old metal spacers from under the new metal primary tensioners and reinstalled tensioners.

3) We are having trouble with setting the timing on the passenger side. The cams are locked down and so is the crank. we are trying to follow the proper procedure we are ending up with slack in the drive side of both the primary and secondary chains when the cam lockdown is removed. before it is removed the the chains are tight.

So with the tool on the exhaust cam holding it counter clockwise then the vvt tool is inserted and the vvt is rotated counter clockwise (facing the car). holding everything in place the vvt bolt is tightned and the primary tensioner relased. AND then slack on the drive side of the secondary and primary passenger side chains.

help

 

Good that you found those things!

The timing chains do stretch and they should be replaced.
I see you replaced the tensioners but not the chains?


All the repair instructions include changing the chains. I still think something was not installed right. It's not easy without the Jaguar tools.






Are you removing the slack in the proper way? Look at this setup. You just can't bolt stuff back on it has to be done correctly





With out the tools to hold things in place you must understand what needs to be tight and how to adjust it.
.
.

 

1) on the passenger side after tightening everything down there is a slight amount of play on the drive side of the secondary and primary chains. (the driver side seem a bit tighter)

2 when removing the cam lockdown on the passenger side the exhaust cam turns a bit and then the secondary chain develops some slack

3) is there any way to check things before putting it all back together to
a) make sure the vvt mechanically are fine and
b that we set the cams are moving as they are supposed to

 

1, 2 and 3) As previously mentioned - you need to follow the steps listed in JTIS with the proper tools - as long as you have done this - you should be good.

3a and b) Turn the VVT to full retard as outlined in JTIS.

 

Ok i believe jtis was followed and the VVTs were retarded

Proper tools were used . Although I don't believe a bar was inserted into the square hole of the exhaust cam tensioning toll to gain extra leverage when tensioning the secondary chain.

My questions remain. Is it ok to have some play on the drive side of the secondary and primary chains.

Further after removing the cam lockdown tool its ok for the exhaust cam to rotate thereby creating sla k in the drive side

 

hi

on the right bank the exhaust and intake cam flats are not perfectly parallel to the flat part of the lockdown tool. their is a small gap on both cams (the side nearest the intake manifold. And the side of the cam flats nearest the outside edge of the motor is touching the lockdown tool is this ok?

(the exhaust cam on the right side had to be rotated to get it to a position and then i think he used the lockdown tool to move it the last little bit.

Please let me know

 

Some slack in passenger side chains.

The drive side on the primary and secondary chains have a tiny amount of slack . Here is a video of the primary chain. The secondary chain has less movement.

Is it ok

http://youtu.be/T-tXdpQuaP4

Thanks

 

The slight slack (saw video) should go away when the tensioners are primed (expand) when the engine is fired up. I believe one of the sides does carry a little extra slack than the other - just don't remember which side...

 

Thanks going to move forward . I appreciate your help. Now I'm keeping my fingers crossed that it wasn't a bearing or something along those lines

 

Ok went up to talk to my friend who is doing the work. He thinks its the VVTs .

A brief refresher. My 01 a type v8 was making what I thought were chain noises. It sat in my driveway for a year. When we took it apart the uppers were fine but the lower tensioner on the passenger side was weak and that chain was slack.

We put in new chains, tensioners and guides put it back together and it was still noisy. A different type of noise (see link)


After listening to the engine he took the valve covers off to take a look even running the engine with the passenger one off to pinpoint the noise. At this point since it didn't look like the chain was making noise he thought it could be the VVTs .

He decided to tear it back Down. At this point we found two things

1) the old spacers were used behind the new primary tensioners when they were installed and

2) the longer bolts from the old secondary tensioners were used instead of the new shorter bolts.

Also the car want throwing any codes for the VVTs , and after it was back together the first time and we manually turned the engine over it appeared the vvt gears were functioning properly. By that I mean as you cranked the engine over by hand one cam flat would get ahead of the other then they would both be aligned again as you kept the ing the engine by hand

Anyway please take listen

 

performed a compression test this morning and all the cylinders were at or close to 180 except for #7 which was only 120

Thoughts ?

 

Did you finally fix it?

 

Inhinknthe chains are finally set up right However their is still a squeaking noise. And possibly some valve noise. I'm going to rdmove the serpantine belt and see if the squeaking stops. If it does that's at least one good thing. Not sure about the rest of the noise. At this point it does t look good.

I am trying to chalk this up to a learning experiance. I will see where it takes me

 

I have the rattle too at idle. It disappear if RPM is a bit increased. It sounded like the noise coming from the primary chain on the driver side. Today I found the primary chain totally loose. The reason I found from the top w/o removing the chain cover - primary tensioner is fully retracting and is not providing absolutely any pressure to the guide, the tensioner piston is moving freely in the body.

The question - is the primary tensioner self-tensioning with the oil pressure in it? Is there some spring inside which is providing the tension? If it is the oil to provide the tension then maybe the tensioner is good but the oil was not supplied... Oil pump failure? Oil level - slightly above the minimum level, no low oil level warning. How to check if enough oil is supplied?

 

I GUESS I found the answer to my question. In the link below you'll find that the tensioner has some restrictor which prevents it from subracting. Right?
Jaguar s Type Super V8 Vanden Plas XF XJ8 XJR XK XK8 XKR Timing Chain Tensioner | eBay

 

My early generation tensioners failed, and it was the check valves inside it is supposed to trap the oil. The new generation tensioners have a ratchet assembly that stops it from retracting.

 

I think now it is clear. The noise disappears at higher RPM because the oil pressure increases to sufficient level to create enough tension while at idle it is not due to failed check valve.

 

That engine has a rod knock unfortunately, nothing short of a full rebuild or engine replacement is going to fix it.