Hello all, I know there some info on this site about this already, but I'm at work and cant surf on here all day as my car will likely be towed home today. I'm hoping for some info on some codes I'm getting on my scanner.
First off some details...my car idles ok for about 10 seconds on cold start. as soon at the rpms drop I can feel the misfiring/rough idle then the check engine light comes on, last night it was intermittently flashing so I left the car at work. I Tried a bottle of Heet with injector cleaner this morning and let it sit for a little while as I had just put about 10 gallons of gas and a car wash the day before it started acting up, as we had some warmer weather above freezing.
Today I noticed my intake hose was a little loose, so I tightened it but no change with the misfiring.
Now I am only getting a solid check engine light.
Scanner shows...
P0305 - Cylinder 5 misfire
P1313 - Misfire rate catalyst damage fault - Bank 1
P1316 - Injector circuit / IDM codes detected.

Would a bad/clogged injector on cylinder 5 throw this code? do coils have a fault code?
I replaced spark plugs roughly 20k miles ago, when I did the valve cover gaskets, manifold o-rings etc. I did not replace injectors or coils at that time.
It maybe possible its leaking oil into spark plug hole from the valve cover, cant look yet.
I do not want to drive it home and damage my cat. I have about a 15 min drive on the highway home., plus the "feels like" temp today is -2f today so hope fully have some warmer weather this weekend/next week to check out as don't have a heated garage.
Is there a live test I can run with my scanner to diagnose it the misfire issue?( I am not sure of all the features on it) I've only ran some simple things like battery voltage etc.
I guess I am just looking for a place to start diagnosing and if I'm on the right direction, as I don't just want to replace parts here and there.
If there is more info you guys need I can try my best.

Thanks
-Keith

 

It may be a coincidence but it happened just after you washed the car. I would download the workshop manual from Jagrepair.com

Search for the code P1316 and go through the pinpoint test starting with the wiring.

|P1316 JAGUAR code possible causes

• Cylinder compression low
• Low fuel pressure
• Clogged fuel injectors
• Faulty / worn out spark plugs
• Faulty ignition coil
• Faulty fuel injectors
• Faulty Engine Control Module (ECM).

 

Good idea to not drive the vehicle with the MIL flashing.

Start with removing the coil unit from cylinder 5, which is the back cylinder on Bank 1, and see if there is oil present. If there isn't, it's most likely a failed coil. You can swap it with another cylinder and see if the misfire moves to that different cylinder. As you're probably aware, the coil units are known failure items.

 

Cheers, I did find this exact same list today, thank you.
Oh and thanks for the shop manual link, only 3316 pages, I'll print it at work haha, just kidding.

 

Cheers, I will try that. getting a tow home tomorrow.

 

As it is a V6. I thought you have to strip the inlet manifold out to get to coils unlike the V8.

According to the manual you have to use the code P0300 to diagnose the fault instead of P1316.

I am unable to copy the list of possible faults
.
I would before I start stripping out the manifolds have a look at the possible faults such as fuel pressure first.

 

Yes you do need to remove the inlet manifold, that is why swapping coils to check is a hell of a job.
If its any consolation I did get the fuel pump replaced last year. I also know new parts can break or be defective, but ill check it.
Thanks.

Edit: Not too bad taking off the manifold I was thinking of my valve cover gaskets job I did. First time I did that. just time consuming.

 

As a best practice, whenever I'm confronted with faulty coil units, I replace them all on that cylinder bank, especially on the early 3.0 litre engines. In addition, I usually also recommend replacing the cam cover gasket and spark plug boss seal if there's any sign of oil seepage.

 

Thanks for the tip. I did that cam cover gasket once before so I am familiar with the job.

 

Wouldn't cylinder 5 be a middle cylinder, not a back one? I'm just counting and no matter which way I count number 5 isn't on the back of any bank.

 

SDS-003 V6_cylinder_numbering_portrait (jagrepair.com)

 

Ah you meant no 5 in the firing order. Fair enough.

 

Cylinder 5 in the current ISO designation is the rear cylinder on Bank 1. The early X200 cylinder numbering is different: cylinder 3 would be the middle cylinder on Bank 2. The OP has a facelift X202 so the ISO designation is the one to use.

 

It just goes to show how ones brain doesn't work so well and how knowledge gaps occur when it's been 25yrs since being a technician. I don't even recall learning about ISO designations back then. But then, I find it hard to remember what I had for dinner yesterday.
Just out of curiosity... What does ISO mean?

 

It's ok. I just looked it up. International Standards Organisation. Now I understand. I think I may have learnt that before.

I recently looked something up on a motorcycle forum. I found out some useful information and thought, 'Ah! That's interesting. I never knew that.' Then, when I looked closer, I realised I was one of the original contributors to the thread some years ago. I'd forgot all about it.

I wish I had a memory instead of a sieve.

 

So....I took the manifold of yesterday pulled the coils, and found that the spark plug for cylinder 5 had the rubber insert from my spark plug socked still on the plug from last time I did the plugs, oops.
It was baked on and very brittle, I managed to fish it out in pieces with a piece of wire with a little hook on the end, That bank seemed to have lot of moisture all over the coils and especially cylinder 5 had some water in the hole, No oil leaks in there though.

The holes the coils go in don't seal very well due to them being cracked and out of shape (see pic). I put some permatex on it to help last time, I forgot about that.
If I am correct that cracked part is part of the valve cover and not replaceable. I thought they were seals as they do look like it at first.. Unless they are? someone correct me if I am wrong.

Should I go ahead and do injectors too? I had a fault code "P1316 - Injector circuit / IDM codes detected". Maybe that is due to that cylinder 5 not firing, I'm not 100% sure

I cant seem to find the Denso coils that are on there, some had a green paint dot (see pic) are these normally stock or replacement indicator?
Is there a good replacement brand someone can recommend. I may do all six so they are all the same if they are reasonably priced.

Do these plugs look ok after 25K?

 

Water in the spark plug recesses is often the result of blocked scuttle drains. Any OEM quality coil-pack should be fine as a replacement; I used Delphi, but NGK are good too.

The plugs should have a 1,45 to 1.55mm gap, yours looks bigger; the plugs also look worn and the example looks like a rich mixture, or misfire condition. I personally would replace at least the plugs located under the intake manifold and the injector on the cylinder in question.

 

The water is almost certainly the cause of your misfire. However, because of the plug socket rubber, there is a possibility that there has been enough arcing inside the coil to plug connection to damage it. Thus, I agree with the above recommendation to replace the coil. But make sure you have completely dried out the area. Don't seal any moisture back in, or it will misfire again.

Also fresh plugs wouldn't hurt, but I would go out on a limb here and suggest carefully reducing the gap to 1.2mm. Your coil won't have to work as hard to make the spark jump and you are less likely to get misfires later on. Remember old-fashioned cars used to have 0.6mm gaps and still ran well.

 

Anyone know a place to order an injector at a good price?

 

If you suspect a single injector, for now I'd simply swap it with a one from a known-good position. See if the fault returns and if so, does it follow the suspect injector?

There's a good chance the fault never returns (for either position). You would save some money and avoid the possibility of getting a new injector that is bad from stock.