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My 2001 S-Type, the check engine light cannot be turned off because of a bad module that is unique to each vehicle.
Dealer told me that it is no longer made and if they try to reset it, it's possible it will be fried or destroyed and the car will never start again?
Does anyone have any answers for this problem?
I'm waiting for the dealer to send me the invoice and information as I tried to describe above. I had a stroke in October and was down for 3 months, having trouble finding my notes?
It looks like it says the ABS Module and the dynamic speed control flashing?
I'll post the new pic without the receipt attached.
Thanks for your help
It looks like the "module" being referenced is the PCM, (or engine ECU) which on a pre-2003 car in the U.S. is indeed coded, or married to the car and no longer available. With the only feature non-functional being the cruise control; the OP may well just have live with the defect, or find a later model which has the Denso engine management system...
It looks like the "module" being referenced is the PCM, (or engine ECU) which on a pre-2003 car in the U.S. is indeed coded, or married to the car and no longer available...
I'm not overly confident in the dealership's diagnosis. Reading between the lines, and with only part of the invoice text visible, something just ain't right. Time to put on my Sherlock Holmes hat and light my pipe.
In the first message, it says the check engine light is on. But on the invoice, the only symptom present is the cruise control doesn't work. I'm not sure a fault in the cruise control system would necessarily turn on the check engine light. Maybe you'd get an ABS or traction control light, but I'm not so sure about check engine.
If indeed the check engine light is on, can you please post the fault code? It will be five digits, a single letter followed by four numbers, such as P0301. Most auto parts stores will read codes for free. Make sure to post the actual code, not the definition provided by the scanner. Often those generic definitions are not accurate for Jaguar.
If you've got an ABS or traction control light (not check engine), there should be a corresponding fault code. A typical code reader can't access those, so you may have to take the car to a shop. An independent Jaguar specialist is best, but most shops should be able to read those faults. You don't have to go strictly to the dealer. The problem could be as simple as a bad wheel speed sensor, a fairly common (and inexpensive) problem. There is an ABS/TC control module, but if bad, I don't believe that is permanently VIN-coded like the PCM.
Dealer sounds next to hopeless. But... they may well have no-one who really knows much about such an old car. Either find someone outside the dealer network or diagnose it yourself.
Could well be a speed sensor etc or even the actual ABS module.
Ah, making some progress. Big difference versus the check engine light!
First thing I'd check is the operation of the traction control switch, at the base of the shift lever. IIRC, when the system is initially switched off (push the button once), you get the light on the dash. You also briefly get a message "Traction Control Off", maybe for 10 seconds or so. The message then clears but the indicator light stays on.
To switch the system back on, push the button again. The light should extinguish and you now get a "Traction Control On" message for a few seconds.
Even if there's a fault that causes the light to remain on at all times, when you cycle the switch I think you should see some response at the message center. Who knows, maybe the problem is as simple as a failed or stuck switch.
Hmm, it sure sounds like the dealership is suggesting expensive guesswork on your dime. If you had a message or warning light flashing, a corresponding fault code is stored. I have no idea why the dealer couldn't retrieve it. All I can guess is they rarely deal with a 20 year old vehicle and have forgotten some of the details of how to access it. Find yourself a local independent shop and they should easily be able to give you a MUCH more accurate diagnosis. These cars are not some super exotic breed, and share many details with Fords of that era. If a shop tells you they can't work on a Jaguar, politely say good bye and keep looking.
Some more considerations:
The resistance test of the wheel speed sensors is nice, but not conclusive. For example, a 39 cent clip could have broken and the sensor fell out of the hub. The sensor would still pass a resistance test, but not generate a valid signal when the vehicle is in motion, and thus you'd get a fault.
Computer modules are incredibly reliable. A failure of same should be WAY down on the list of possible causes.
The dealer is WAY out in left field to say the responsible module (For the anti-lock brakes, NOT the engine control) is locked to a specific VIN once programmed.
Have you tried playing yet with the traction control switch like I suggested? Does it generate the corresponding messages?
Hi Bbigg
My traction control light came on after the car was off the road for quite a while.
The battery is worth checking. As my car had no traction control problems prior to being off the road and was just sitting for months. I take it to be battery related. Check the battery for correct charge as many owners have mystery electrical faults occur with a bad battery.
Having said this, mine is still sitting in the shed and I have not bothered with checking it further. But still worth checking the battery first.
The battery is worth checking. As my car had no traction control problems prior to being off the road and was just sitting for months. I take it to be battery related...
I had wondered about the same thing, but a marginal battery only seemed to cause problems with 2003+ models. But I'm glad you suggested this, as it won't cost a thing to investigate. Who knows, with any luck, the solution could be this simple.
For your reading pleasure, lots of details about how a weak battery can cause certain issues, including a traction control fault:
I would suggest making sure the battery is fully charged and see if that makes any difference. [battery soapbox mode on/] Don't rely on a trickle charger. It won't cut it. I highly suggest an automatic charger with at least a ten amp output. [battery soapbox mode off/]