My '05 STR is sick again....just lost power at a stoplight
P1000 says the battery was flat or off BEFORE you read the codes. Which was it?
Normal old-fashioned load-based battery tests are NO GOOD with modern cars, so if that's what they did be aware you're no further forward. The reason is that the modules need lots of volts all the time even when cranking and of course while driving but in addition the battery must supply very fast big currents for such as injectors. You basically need a voltage monitor (DSO or the like) to check and frankly who has one or uses it on their S-Type?
There again... if P2135 is right you have a very uncommon but occasionally seen fault which is a pain and costly
May be worth reading the not very many existing threads in case there's a better fix than a swap.
Ahhh, you could be affected by JTB00022 and just need a reflash. Here it is
Normal old-fashioned load-based battery tests are NO GOOD with modern cars, so if that's what they did be aware you're no further forward. The reason is that the modules need lots of volts all the time even when cranking and of course while driving but in addition the battery must supply very fast big currents for such as injectors. You basically need a voltage monitor (DSO or the like) to check and frankly who has one or uses it on their S-Type?
There again... if P2135 is right you have a very uncommon but occasionally seen fault which is a pain and costly
May be worth reading the not very many existing threads in case there's a better fix than a swap.Ahhh, you could be affected by JTB00022 and just need a reflash. Here it is
Last edited by JagV8; Sep 23, 2013 at 01:26 AM.
Great research JagV8.
So JTB00022 can affect s-types with VIN from N52048 - more like model years 2006 - 2008? What manufacturing changes might Jaguar have made to introduce a problem like that?
So JTB00022 can affect s-types with VIN from N52048 - more like model years 2006 - 2008? What manufacturing changes might Jaguar have made to introduce a problem like that?
P1000 says the battery was flat or off BEFORE you read the codes. Which was it?
Normal old-fashioned load-based battery tests are NO GOOD with modern cars, so if that's what they did be aware you're no further forward. The reason is that the modules need lots of volts all the time even when cranking and of course while driving but in addition the battery must supply very fast big currents for such as injectors. You basically need a voltage monitor (DSO or the like) to check and frankly who has one or uses it on their S-Type?
There again... if P2135 is right you have a very uncommon but occasionally seen fault which is a pain and costly
May be worth reading the not very many existing threads in case there's a better fix than a swap.
Ahhh, you could be affected by JTB00022 and just need a reflash. Here it is
Normal old-fashioned load-based battery tests are NO GOOD with modern cars, so if that's what they did be aware you're no further forward. The reason is that the modules need lots of volts all the time even when cranking and of course while driving but in addition the battery must supply very fast big currents for such as injectors. You basically need a voltage monitor (DSO or the like) to check and frankly who has one or uses it on their S-Type?
There again... if P2135 is right you have a very uncommon but occasionally seen fault which is a pain and costly
May be worth reading the not very many existing threads in case there's a better fix than a swap.Ahhh, you could be affected by JTB00022 and just need a reflash. Here it is
I don't know if it was "flat". I had turned the car off for 10 minutes or so, then he put some sort of meter on the battery, which printed out a receipt that said the battery was good. The car wasn't running when they did the test. I don't think what would make the battery flat, but I guess it does point to the battery as being a possible problem.
P1000 without having disconnected the battery means either very serious engine fault(s) - unlikely - or you cleared the codes recently or battery's been so flat the PCM has lost track of all volatile settings (same as if disconnected). I'd replace it NOW before worse happens. Failing that, charge for 12+ hrs, leave off for 2 hrs, measure volts. If not 12.6V or a bit more, replace.
Hi forum,
I haven't had any issues with my STR since I first posted the incident. Quick question though, I haven't ran the AC since it happened, is it possible moisture or condensation from the AC got into or on the throttle body assembly? I haven't changed out the battery yet, was planning to do that this weekend, but wanted to hear what you guys had to say about the AC possibly being the culprit since I've had no troubles since I haven't used the AC......just a thought. Thanks forum.
I haven't had any issues with my STR since I first posted the incident. Quick question though, I haven't ran the AC since it happened, is it possible moisture or condensation from the AC got into or on the throttle body assembly? I haven't changed out the battery yet, was planning to do that this weekend, but wanted to hear what you guys had to say about the AC possibly being the culprit since I've had no troubles since I haven't used the AC......just a thought. Thanks forum.
No. The moisture problem people are talking about comes from the hood/cowl area. There is a direct path for water to drip on the back of the engine (That's where the TB is on the SC cars) from the windshield wiper post area. Jaguar had a TSB on what to seal.
You can check by running water over the closed hood and then looking where it drips on the engine.
.
.
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You can check by running water over the closed hood and then looking where it drips on the engine.
.
.
.
Last edited by clubairth1; Oct 6, 2013 at 09:37 AM.
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