What Brutal said. But also, if it is the female part of the pin (anti-pin?) then taping up won't be a fix. (I think you know this, just making sure.) I think the idea of the drag test is you're putting a known good male pin (with a length of wire attached) into each mating part in turn and tugging gently. Any time the pin comes straight out shows a faulty female. (Sorry if that was already clear.)

 

I have a Jag Stype for sale for parts if you need any PARTS...

 

Hey there... I figured I'd get on here and see a post from Bert. We talked about this as well on the phone..

BRUTAL: Post here or PM me if you don't want it on the forum. If you know what brand the connectors are and such my employer may be able to help. Go here and you will see why: www.powerandsignal.com . We are global distributors of just this kind of stuff. We have done kits in the past for the likes of Volvo Trucks. I'm in distribution operations and don't have the parts background that would be needed, but can certainly act as a catalyst.

Bert: Funny how BRUTAL mentions the dealer.. I really think that may be worth looking at... Specially since you can get it to duplicate now. Also, they were the ones that installed the pedal mechanism in the first place, correct? May be worth talking to them again... You haven't gone there yet to talk about the repairs you've done so far, have you? This would be the perfect opportunity!

Call me if you wish...

 

I am a bit conflicted. Part of me wants to go to the dealership and have them perform the potential fix, but given my luck with the 3 dealers; I don't know that I trust them to do this. The advantage would be that I could probably badger them into fixing it for free. On the other hand, it is worth a few bucks to know that I have a new/refurbished connector with fixed/new pins.

I really want to know that it is done right so that I can appropriately eliminate the connection as the probable culprit.

Also, is the portion of the harness that contains the connection to accelerator pedal part of the engine harness or the dash harness? Does this portion of the harness connect into the main body harness or is it all one piece? The reason I am asking is to determine all points of potential failure. For example, if we fix the connection to the gas pedal, is there another connection (say engine harness to body harness) where the 6 wires that come from the gas pedal connect into the main?

I tried to gather that information from the JTIS, but either I was too stupid to find it or it is not in there. I can see and pretty much understand the schematics, but not the physical layout.

 

Ok, I may have found the schematic answer to my own question. It is amazing what happens when you ACTUALLY READ the legends in the first part of the manual. According to the JTIS, the two leads responsible for APP sense (P1344) are the leads running to the ECM connecting at PI1-102 and 103. It appears there are 5 connecting points (1 at the ECM, 1 at the pedal assembly, and 3 in-line connections) for each lead (if I read it correctly in figure 3.1). I still don't know physically where they are.

I know I may be getting a bit ahead of myself since I haven't fixed the connector yet. Just sharpening the spear and shining the shield for battle!

 

In the JTIS Electrical Guide (a PDF), I found APP Sensor in the Component Index and from there found it on fig 03.1 (etc).

It's in the bottom RHS corner. If you look closely the pins are shown, with numbers, and just above them the wires are shown as CA88-1 (etc). Where the first part (CA88) is the same it means they share a harness. If you hunt around and find the highest numbered wire (like -5) then that tells you the number of wires (5) in that harness.

There's also (see pane to left of schematics) a PDF part called Harness In-Line Connectors which is incomplete I think but useful.

You can work towards the PCM (aka ECM) or away from it, figuring out what goes where.

There can be "splices" (see earlier in the PDF for how they're shown), which are joins (crimped/soldered/whatever) internal to a wire/harness.

The other parts of JTIS will also use CA88-1 etc to refer to the pins/wires.

To find out if there are more connectors on the way to wherever a harness goes, just look from place to place for a connector symbol

 

Ok Bert, once again RTFM before you ask a stupid question! I now know that the connector and leads in question are part of the engine harness. The reason I wanted to know this is because if worst comes to worst - I might have to buy one. I know I am getting ahead of myself, but I like to think in contigencies. It appears that the engine harness runs relatively straight through the firewall. If it comes to that, it is an option.

I am now looking for the pin configuration inside the connector so I can find those two wascally wabbits! (Having an Elmer Fudd moment)

 

Couldn't you use a multimeter set to ground, one lead on a ground and one lead on the connector backside of pin, then wiggle connector to see if you get the multimeter to beep for a positive ground? This would tell you if the pins or actual connector is loose. No beep would mean no bad connector.

 

Only if you can get at the rear of the connector pins. The advice is NOT to pierce the wires as used to be done because it lets in damp and corrosion occurs with subsequent problems. If you're careful you can sometimes thread a strand of wire in and meter to that.

Bert - you don't want to be buying an engine harness. Lots of variants and they go all over the place!

 

In the general electronics business, on a connector such as this carrying only light sensor currents in milliamps, we would spray the connector with "Electrolube", plug and unplug about 10/15 times, then retest (that 'wiggle' test with engine running).
All these kind of problems in the electronics business stopped when connectors became gold-plated, thusly no more subtle corrosion. VERY noticeable with gold-plated scart connectors for tv sets. The common cheap tinned ones will give pix. interference every time you touch them.
Leedsman.

 

bertrandgey,

If you are using Gas from Sheets, Costco or Giants - You are asking for trouble!!!

My Brother (mechanic) many years ago said "always use the name brand gas, never the discounted". For 40 years I did that then for no apparent reason began to use the gas (for two months) mentioned above. I began to have issues, serious issues with performance.
NOTE: I never put that gas in my Jaguar.
At one point I was shopping around to have an Engine replacement performed on my LeSabre. The shops said everything is functioning OK but it had intermittent 'bog downs' If I can call it that and another unusual creeping along (inching) that scared the hell out of me.
Then I remembered that 'advice' - I filled up with the name brand and immediately the issues faded. I burned the tank down before filling up. The very next fill up - it was as if I just purchased a new car!!!
The Riviera also behaved poorly - I ceased putting whatever that is in my vehicles.