Yes that's using ETM - post #3

 

Yes it is in post 3 but unsure if it has been done so posted the step by step details again to be sure!

Going one step further, if you do get the sender unit out and can bench test it, its resistance should go from 15 ohms to 160 ohms from each end of the travel of the float arm.Obviously, any areas of high resistance at any float arm position indicates an open circuit and a faulty unit.

 

It's impossible to fill the tank completely with the quoted capacity. I've never run out of gas but I beleive the explanation was that the remaining couple of gallons is to keep the pump from overheating!

So initially, I thought I had a problem with not being able to fill it AND the gauge never read full. Now it's been a few years since and that was right after I got the car with an extended warranty so I touched nothing on the car, just plenty of dealer visits. But this has been discussed on here before. You probably just want to ignore it since I think it's going to be very expensive to fix, if they even still have the stuff to do it? I kind of doubt anyone besides a dealership ever made these repairs. But I could be wrong.

 

Good stuff. This is very helpful. I'd suggest starting by reading the values a little bit above empty, then half a tank, and then "full". See if the two senders are close to each other, and that they respond as you rock the car. Don't rely on just watching the needle. Most gauges are deliberately slow to respond, to hide minor oscillations. Also, when the tank is full, the sender floats may be slightly submerged, and so may not respond to rocking.

If all that passes and the gauge seems accurate, you can read more details about the tank and vapor recovery system here, courtesy of Gus:

http://www.jagrepair.com/images/Elec...E%20Update.pdf


See page 62 for vapor recovery details, and page 97 for tank plumbing.