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I don't know how many things the inertia switch inhibits but the elec guide in JTIS will show it.
PATS codes if any will be flashes you would need to count over about 2 mins, key in ign II.
Will only be engine codes if battery not been off or they keep occurring very early (most are inhibited till P1111 sets).
PATS codes if any will be flashes you would need to count over about 2 mins, key in ign II.
Will only be engine codes if battery not been off or they keep occurring very early (most are inhibited till P1111 sets).
I would remove the sump plug and see if any water comes out, using the dipstick won't show it as oil floats on water so as the dipstick comes out the water it passes through the oil making it look like just oil on the stick
ok I have check for PATS codes and find none. the light comes on under the check light start up but them goes out.
We the key in the 2nd position there are no blinking lights.
If I set the alarm there is one blink every 3 or 4 seconds
here is a pix. of the dash and warning message
We the key in the 2nd position there are no blinking lights.
If I set the alarm there is one blink every 3 or 4 seconds
here is a pix. of the dash and warning message
Then, passing over whether it's wise/safe to crank, it ought to.
If it won't I think you're looking at poor battery / bad power wiring / dead starter / jammed mechanical items / etc. The usual suspects for non-crank.
If it won't I think you're looking at poor battery / bad power wiring / dead starter / jammed mechanical items / etc. The usual suspects for non-crank.
all the water/coolant has been removed from the intake and cylinder 99% anyway. the three that had water in the pictures were completely dry the valves held the water back, the other three all had a few ounces in them.
So I don't see cranking to be an issue, if it would only crank.
I will start checking connections, perhaps run my jumper directly to the starter to see if that makes any difference.
I will also have to download the electrical portion of the manual to see what they use to stop the engine in cooling safe mode (all I have is the powertrain manual).
It appears to operate the same as a Cadillac NorthStar of the 80's did, shutting off one cylinder at a time to keep the temp down, then cut the motor out supposedly before catastrophic failure. But nothing tells you how to rest it, maybe in the electrical manual I will find something.
thanks
So I don't see cranking to be an issue, if it would only crank.
I will start checking connections, perhaps run my jumper directly to the starter to see if that makes any difference.
I will also have to download the electrical portion of the manual to see what they use to stop the engine in cooling safe mode (all I have is the powertrain manual).
It appears to operate the same as a Cadillac NorthStar of the 80's did, shutting off one cylinder at a time to keep the temp down, then cut the motor out supposedly before catastrophic failure. But nothing tells you how to rest it, maybe in the electrical manual I will find something.
thanks
Well I still haven't got the complete JTIS to download maybe a windows 8 issue don't.
So seeing as I could not get the manual, I figure I would do it cave man style.
Hooked my 200 changer directly to the start nothing, same as before pegs the gauges does not crank. So enough of this BS I put a cheap 3/8 HF drive racket on the crank and it moves back and forth easily.
Hit the key nothing, roll the HB back a 1/2 turn or so, hit the key and the starter bumps.
SO now I know there is an interference problem in the engine and not a problem with the starter or the Fail Safe Cooling System Mode.
Thanks
So seeing as I could not get the manual, I figure I would do it cave man style.
Hooked my 200 changer directly to the start nothing, same as before pegs the gauges does not crank. So enough of this BS I put a cheap 3/8 HF drive racket on the crank and it moves back and forth easily.
Hit the key nothing, roll the HB back a 1/2 turn or so, hit the key and the starter bumps.
SO now I know there is an interference problem in the engine and not a problem with the starter or the Fail Safe Cooling System Mode.
Thanks
are you really that much of a *ick?
and you are one of the best and most respected members on this site WOW.
You seem to forget post #35 were you were completely incorrect with your assumptions
"There is apparently a leak path from the cooling system into one or more combustion chambers. If an intake valve is open, any fluid pushed into the cylinder will flow back out the intake."
and you are one of the best and most respected members on this site WOW.
You seem to forget post #35 were you were completely incorrect with your assumptions
"There is apparently a leak path from the cooling system into one or more combustion chambers. If an intake valve is open, any fluid pushed into the cylinder will flow back out the intake."
Last edited by drowssap; Jun 20, 2013 at 11:43 AM.
are you really that much of a *ick?
and you are one of the best and most respected members on this site WOW.
You seem to forget post #35 were you were completely incorrect with your assumptions
"There is apparently a leak path from the cooling system into one or more combustion chambers. If an intake valve is open, any fluid pushed into the cylinder will flow back out the intake."
and you are one of the best and most respected members on this site WOW.
You seem to forget post #35 were you were completely incorrect with your assumptions
"There is apparently a leak path from the cooling system into one or more combustion chambers. If an intake valve is open, any fluid pushed into the cylinder will flow back out the intake."











