First off let me introduce myself.
My name is Rick and I belong to several forums and frequent them almost everyday.
I am equipment dealer in Pa and I spend most of my time on Tractor By Net helping people with their tractor problems.
I am in need of help myself.
I am mechanically inclined and do 95% of my own work.
Here is my problem.....
I have a 2003 S type 3.0.
I purchased it a couple years ago with 102k and it now has 119k on it. It has been flawless since we bought it untill now.
I'm having an issue while driving it. It only happen when you are putting the car under a slight load. If i am agressive with it, it runs and drives fine but under normal conditions I will get a pulsating vibration grinding noise and while it is doing this it seems as the motor is bogging with the pulsation. It sounds like it is coming from the left rear wheel.
I talked to the local Jag dealer and he thought it was a bad coil pack.
I replaced all the coils and put new splitfire plugs in. Once again the car is smooth idling and very responsive while driving it agressively.
I have checked the following...
Rear wheels
Tire pressures
Wheel bearings
Rear brakes
Rear axel shafts
Drive shaft.
Rear end fluid
This has me scratching my head.
By the way the trans shifts fine and has no indication of slippage.
I also tried it in.....
The regular and S mode.
Manual shifted it into 5th gear.
Traction control on and off.
Ideas?????

 

Okay so we backed out of the garage this morning and we started out with no problems, about 3 miles into our trip the tac and temp gages went limp and a bunch of light came on on the dash.
I got a....
Gear Box fault
Parking bake fault
DSC fault
I also have a...
Battery light
Engine light
Traction control light
Abs Light
and a little orange bar next to the display.

So when I stopped the car I put it in park and it would not come back out.
I then cycled the key several times and it did come out and the message that was displayed was Restricted performance.

So what do you guys think?

 

Can you get a list of the codes? When you read the codes write them down. Also take the car to AutoZone and have the battery checked.

 

So I went out to move the car into my shop and now I just have the engine light on. which means it finally stored a code. I'm going to put the scanner on it.

You said have the battery checked??
I have a battery tester but I am not sure as to why I would have to check the battery. The car starts every time and runs fine.
I can see maybe a ground issue but I don't think the battery is bad.
Tell me more on the battery.

 

We have experienced several problems and codes that were related to old or not fully charged batteries. You should take it to a place that can test the battery properly like AutoZone and see what the find.

 

Okay so my codes are...
P1642
P1797
P1111
I am going to try and find what they are.
11.88 volts in the battery drops to 10.75 under a 10 sec load.

 

If you need the codes use this link to my page http://www.gusglikas.com/images/Auto..._OBD_II_R2.pdf
P1642 – Circuit malfunction control mod failure
P1797 –CAN open circuit fault, CAN short circuit ECM failure, TCM / control valve failure.
Either a loose connection or a low voltage battery and my guess is a battery. You might want to see if you get a second opinion out of this before you go out and get one.

 

No more codes or lights on the dash.
Took it for a ride and I still have my original issue of the pulsating grinding noise while applying a light load.
Sounds like it's in the left rear hub.

Ohh... well I gues something will come of it one way or the other.
I'll drive it untill something lets loose.
May as well get your orders in for parts off a 03 Silver S Type.
Thank God I own my own rollback.

 

Pulsating and grinding is not a good thing and often relates to the brakes. Find out what is making the noise.

 

I would love to find out what is making the noise, it just makes no sense that it only does it under a slight load on the engine usually going up a grade.
Nothing when the foots off the throttle, nothing if I'm into it aggressively.

This is one of those issue that it just takes time to figure out unless someone has had the same expedience.

 

Hey Wallace, sorry to hear bout your probs with your S type

I'm gonna move this thread to the S type section where many more of the S typers will see it and hopefully chime in along with Gus.

Good luck on the diagnosis

 

Wallace; sounds like Gus is on the right track. That is real hard to do remotely.

It sounds to me that you have the real common issue of a slowly dying battery.. Ask yourself: Do the DTC's actually make sense in relation to how the car drives? Many users here have freaked out with a bunch of codes that said all kinds of things were wrong only to find out that it was just a dying battery. These cars are REAL sensitive electronically.

It also almost makes sense with the grinding sound / feel. Gus again hit the nail on the head... Normally that points to a brake issue.. In your case my guess is the electronic parking brake is out of calibration and is causing one or both of your rear calipers to drag slightly. Again, that points to a failing battery unless you just recently did the rear brakes.

I just think the two are related...

 

How old is the battery? If nearing 5 years, then it may be on the way out. Though she'll start fine, a weak cell(s) will drop down when under a load...hence all the lights and codes. Though you mentioned you checked the rear brakes and bearings, have a pro check em out too. There has been issues with the differential on these cars... LEt us know what turns up with the codes.

 

Battery or related circuitry I'd say 95%. 11.88V is on the low side. What is it with engine idling during the first few seconds after starting and (say) 5 mins later? If you get anywhere near 14V then the charging is OK so it's almost fir sure the battery. If you never see anything as high as 14V then it's probably the charging side of ground or the like.

And if it IS the battery expect meaningless codes.

How sure are you as to where that grinding noise is coming from? A friend with good ears sitting in the back and moving around, lying sideways, etc, to pindown the max sound can be a real help

 

Okay I am going to take the tester home tonight and test the battery.
I will test it not running cold.
Right after start up and 5 min after start up.
I will post what my findings are.
I am a interstate battery dealer, anyone see any problem with installing a intersate battery.
They do list a MTP-H8 for the S

 

You need to test the individual cells properly. Don't use the old-fashioned crude type of tester as it's the voltages seen by the computers that is critical (rather than that seen by the starter motor).

THIS NEEDS TO BE A STICKY!!!!

 

Here's what I did today.
I unhooked the battery and put a automatic charger to it.
Brought it up to a full charge.
I used a sealed beam headlight to remove the surface charge, I left the ligth on for aprox 3 minutes.
I took my multi meter and checked the battery and it showed 12.4 volts
I'm thinking the battery is good.
Keep in mind guys we have been driving the car around with no MIL's or DTC's
Tonight I am going to take my heat sensing gun and check the calipers and rotors once I get home to see if one is hotter than the other.

 

Wallace:
You really need to answer the main question? How old is your battery. There have been many posts of people checking and rechecking the battery with different results much like you are having. If the battery is 5 years or older just replace it and see what happens. You are close to the time the battery needs replaced and as the other posters have said the S Type is well known to be sensitive to this problem. Be SURE and get the correct and properly vented battery. They are a bit hard to find and expensive. If you need to find where to get one post back to the list. Aftermarket units are available if you don't want to use Jaguar.

One other comment I would dump the split fire plugs and use the factory ones. They are not the correct plug and people have had problems. Hope they stay working for you!

.
.
.

 

I don't know if this is any help but I have the same year Type S V8 model and have experienced a restricted performance multi code situation on at least 3 occassions.
It's happened during heavy rain or snow. The first time when the car was about 5-6 yrs old. Had it towed to the dealer and the following day when they they got to it, it started fine. They were unable to diagnose the problem. $300 bucks!
Next time my local little guy Jag shop said it was probably a bad ground. Right on! $100 Bucks! Last time a couple of weeks ago, same problem. I removed the right side inner fender liner and cleaned the ground myself. I also smeared the connection with dielectric grease. Worked fine! $0 Bucks! took about an hour. These cars are obviously very sensitive to battery and ground electrical issues.

BTW, BRUTAL, Thanx so much for the details on repairing self leveling xenon headlights. I saved a bundle on that one.

 

Regarding the grinding/pulsating noise, do you see any oscillations of a few hundred RPM on the tach ? Does this issue go away once the car is fully warmed up? Might be a torque converter problem or the computer shift software needs to be updated.