today I changed the little elbow and the gaskets. I turned on the car and wont start(battery went out). I charged the battery and it started but the same thing happen it would go on drive. I connected the scanner and I finally got codes. I have to replace the 6th coil (p0306)and I have a throttle body malfunction(p1587) not what I wanted.

 

I noticed the traction control light came on. The car battery keeps dying and there is a small noise by the passenger side...This car is a head ache.

 

Leave the TB alone for now. A failing battery causes weird codes (think: computers with low voltages, what would you expect...).

Car's 12 yrs old, some things are going to fail. Coils for that model are quite cheap but do be sure the battery isn't failing - how old is it?

 

That's what I thought it was because the tail lights fail light came out as well.

The car is pretty much all original. 12 year old parts that need some replacing.

The battery for sure I will change and see if I still get the noise from the throttle I got yesterday. I read some forums for the symptoms. Its either going to be the wire or the pedal is faulty since it wont go higher than 3000rpms. But first change the battery before I start changing any other thing.

Do you guys recommend a good place to by the battery or should I just go to the dealership?

 

3000 sounds like the rev limiter....

Swap battery, drive nicely so it relearns nicely, then all may be well. No need to buy from dealer but get a proper vented one (see the little tube out of the forward edge) with hefty CCA.

 

Search some local Pep Boys, and other auto supply places, they usually carry the right ones..may have to check one or more stores. The dealer prices can be double of other places..

 

Bought the new battery and still no drive. There were no codes. I let it run for a bit so it could get used to the battery and I noticed that the car was very shaky. It felt like an out of control washing machine. JagV8 you mentioned before about the fuel trims I saw that at idle they were at 5.00 but when at 2500 the were negative 3 or 1.

 

bluepirate,

Just a thought: has anyone checked the MAF (air flow meter). If it is providing wrong air flow readings (ie. low), the computer will reduce the amount of fuel injected to match the air readings. That will limit the revs to whatever the computer restricts the fuel injection to. In turn, the gearbox may well be controlled to a lower gear simply because the computer doesn't believe that there is enough power being delivered to justify the upchange.

Cheers,

Languid

 

Languid,

I cleaned the MAF and yet not results. I guess I would have to test the MAF and see if it works properly.

 

With battery off the learned values are cleared so it will be a bit rough as it relearns but if left to idle for 5 mins shoud smooth out. If it doesn't then sounds like still some problem. LTFT of 5 is OK. I'm surprised at -3 but it's well within spec (codes are thrown at 25 / -25 or worse).

Most codes can't flag until 2 warm ups - see the codes PDF for your car - so you may have one/some yet to be revealed.

 

Don't worry about it not revving past 3000 in park or neutral. That is the rev limiter. It is OK. The bigger concern is why it shuts off when you put it in drive. Did you have the trans rebuilt? Did they hook up the linkage properly. The shift linkage in these things is a real PIA. The cables stretch and bolts loosen. I'm pretty sure it affects earlier cars as well as the newer ZF trans cars. The statement that you used to put it in "2nd" to correct bad behavior makes me think there is something going wrong with the linkage. Remember, even the early Ford 5speed trans cars have the transmission and engine computers talk to each other. If the one sees something wrong with the other they will "protect" themselves. The roughness you are describing sounds like the engine trying to relearn. You will really not know if there is truly a miss or anything until you are actually able to put the car in drive and complete a few drive cycles.

 

Well... a single module (PCM) does both functions in the early cars! But it's true it will do its best to protect the engine & autobox.

 

Josworth: The transmission was not rebuilt. The car took time getting into gear in drive or any other gear. I read in the forum to change the plactic shifter and I did. The 10 sec delay left and the car was running fine. But just when I drove it 80 miles non stop, it stopped. I made sure I put on all the bolts and links properly. Checked it 5 times yet nothing.

I put the scanner in again and it states that the catalyst, heated catalyst,oxygen sensor, oxygen sensor heater, and EGR system are incomplete.
as I turned on the car the fuel system states that there is a fault on the feedback system. on the oxygen sensor, short fuel trim on bank 1 and 2 sensor 2 are negative 1 while the others is 15 (if that helps)

 

I think I found the solution to my problem. My spark plugs and coil packs are filled with oil. I didn't think about the spark plug since I changed them before a few miles ago but with curiosity I found them filled with oil. the car had 72000 miles when I changed the valve cover gaskets, now that the car is 83000 miles, I need to change it again since the spark plugs are so oily. Thanks guys for the help I almost gave up. Hopefully just changing the coils, spark plugs and valve cover gaskets the car will finally drive. Thanks again.

 

While you have it apart... Check the intake manifold. I'm pretty sure the early 3.0 has the Intake Manifold Tuner valve. It is mounted in the rear of the lower part of the intake. These are notorious for collecting oil from the PCV system then letting the oil leak out. Might as well change the o-ring seals while you have it apart..

 

Your story is so similar to my 01 90k s type. I am being told transmission bad tho I too am stuck in reverse. I purchased metal shift selector on line but mechanic says pointless to replace since bad transmission. Was not the case for u it seems.

In 07 all my coils were replaced at dealership, n invoice I still have noted oil leaking on them. Then car was lurching.

Best of luck. Think I'm done.

 

Yes, I replaced the two rings for the IMT. Hopefully that will help as well.



brownrid-an: I was told the same at a AAMCO shop. They didn't even test it they just said that it was the transmission and that they would charge me 700 to take the transmission out and 3000 for what ever they thought was wrong. I don't have the money for that and so I joined the forum to meet awesome people that would help me. If I were you I would follow what the guys have told me if you are having the same problems. I'm waiting for the coils I ordered. If everything works well I'll keep you posted on my car.

 

This girl can't seem to get this car running. changed the coil packs, spark plugs, IMT rings and also a piece that is connected to one of the hoses that looked faulty and yet the car wont drive. It wants to respond to drive but in 5 seconds it turns off. As I got everything done and turned on the car I noticed that there as smoke coming out of the passengers side by the intake and the car was heating up really quick. im guessing I will have to change the thermostat and the water pump too. this car is a nightmare.

 

the fan wont turn on as well

 

I went through the same repairs on my car. Do you have all those hoses working correctly. That one hose that goes to a three way often breaks. Not sure if it is the cause (doubt it) but make sure its right. Also you changed the gaskets? a little while ago and now they are leaking again? Did you torque the cover down correctly and also besides the gasket when I replaced I put some gasket seal along the gasket itself when putting the cover on. Sorry to hear you are having so many problems.