I am sorry I have to disagree with you on the above quote.

 

I think all my bushings are gone, are there any bushings on the upper wishbone for rear? I wanted to replace all of them at one time. Also how much labor is involved with replacing the bushings?

 

Jaguar Forum.co.uk • View topic - The definitive wishbone bush thread

and others

 

MPG 21-22 city, 28-30 highway Avg. Best was 32.3 mpg avg on a 3500 mile round trip in two weeks.

Winter driving, no differant then any RWD. I'm from Wisconsin. I drive a +500whp RWD truck all year round and I do just fine with some snow tires on. Just keep your foot out of it. Spinning aint winning, it's just fun. lol

 

That was my solution as well. I got an Audi A6 wagon for just that reason. When DC got the great storm this past winter, I had no problems getting around. My S-Type was parked until all the snow got cleared off.

Mike

 

That's outstanding mileage!

There's a good reason to buy his 2003 STR. That's 5-7 mpg better than mine a 2005.

 

My STR gets better fuel economy than my 2002 2.5 X type did. Not by much but around town I'd be in the 17mpg range with the X and I'm closer to 20mph with the STR.

I'd drive an S-Type in the winter here in Pittsburgh (if I didn't have a Jeep), but only with proper snow tires. Hills + usually a good bit of snow = need traction. I always ran snows on my X Type as well, with the thinking that AWD does not help you stop.

OP I think you'll find the maintenance and repair costs/occurances of the S-Type will probably be less than what you have experienced with the early year X.

 

Of course some of it could be where I live. We don't drive here so much as we engage in automotive combat ... It's fairly intense.

But on long trips 23 is the very tops I have ever seen even with trying to be very careful. It quickly drops to 21-22 with any sort of spirited driving.

I guess 2005 is a bad year for mileage if you guys are getting in the high 20s?

 

Per the onboard computer, I got 26 mpg with an average speed of 79 mph from Pittsburgh to Hilton Head in late July (720 miles give or take) -very hot and humid the whole way. Fairly loaded down with vacation luggage and stuff. About 340lbs of people (me: 225lbs of it). 35 psi all the way around. I drove like a jackass, as usual. I didn't manually tabulate the mpg to backcheck the onboard figures though.

 

I do not think the bushings are replaceable, but on both sides of mine the ball joint was the first part of control arm to wear out and it is not replaceable. Have to replace comlete upper arm.

 

I agree I should have stopped at not the easiest car to work on. The process for replacing various suspension components seem to require a lot of steps. I am not sure that parts replacement ease was considered on some things. Here is an example. This is JTIS replacement instructions for replacing rt front upper control arm which has 2 bolts and 3 nuts holding the actual part on.

My apologies, I am sure there are much more difficult vehicles to work on.






Upper Arm RHRemove the shock absorber and spring assembly. Remove the cabin air filter. Remove the cabin air filter housing retaining nut. Remove the cabin air filter housing. Remove the engine compartment support. Remove the engine compartment panel. Detach the wiring harness mounting bracket. Remove the upper arm retaining nut. Detach the engine compartment battery junction box.Release the engine compartment battery junction box retaining clips.Detach the engine compartment battery junction box. Detach the hydraulic control unit. Remove the upper arm retaining nut. Remove the upper arm. Install the upper arm. Install the upper arm retaining nut. Install the upper arm retaining nut.Install the shock absorber and spring assembly. The final tightening of the Upper arm retaining nut must be carried out with the vehicle on its wheels.Tighten to 47 Nm. The final tightening of the Upper arm retaining nut must be carried out with the vehicle on its wheels.Tighten to 47 Nm. Attach the hydraulic control unit. Attach the engine compartment battery junction box.reposition the engine compartment battery junction box .Attach the engine compartment battery junction box. Attach the wiring harness mounting bracket. Install the engine compartment panel. Install the engine compartment support. Install the cabin air filter housing. Install the cabin air filter housing retaining nut.Install the cabin air filter.

 

After reviewing the replacment procedure for the Right Upper Control Arm, I agree it does sound like its alot of work. Alldata is calling for a 2 hour process (actually looks kinda fun), not bad if you are into saving BIG bucks!

I have found that Alldata timelines to be pretty accurate (on many a different vehicles) that I have wrenched on.

 

Good grief! That is a quite the ordeal. I wonder what the dealer book shop time (rate) is for that job.

EDIT - hey Rick, can you lay off the mind reading for a minute or two man, you are messing up my flow! LOL....

 

2 hours!

But I know someone here will chime in and state that the time doesn't allow for the "northern" seized, rusted bolt factor .

I know, I know here I go yet again with my southern mentality.... let the flaming begin .

 

 

it calls for 2 boxes of bandaids, 30 stones' (keystone beer), and 2 hrs of labor.

 

Manual calls for 1.8. Of course this is assuming that you have done it before and have all of the correct tools handy and nuts and bolts aren"t seized.

When doing the rear lower arms, the time was cut in half on the second one.

 

I had a similar question and you just answered it.
Thanks.

 

I second that thought. I live in the great lakes region and when the snow begins to fall nothing beat my old 94 Jeep Cherokee. My VDP was the same way not much fun to drive around in the winter unless you like sliding.