I just saw the same price. That isnt too bad. Just bought 6 coils - gonna replace them all.

Anything else while I'm in there? I only want to pull this intake off once. I'm going to do the IMT O-Rings too. I read it's simpler when its out. Maybe now I can get to the transmission and the fan and stop with these other issues that are cropping up.

Thanks team! You are the best!

 

Good to know George, 2 years ago they were not available as an aftermarket. I had to go to Jaguar, as I recall somewhere in the area of $80.00.

BTW: The upper gaskets are different from the lowers, FYI be sure to get the correct ones!

 

You haven't mentioned spark plugs......

 

Yes, by all means spark plugs! Any suggestions? OEM has always been my normal path as I'm not a race performance minded individual, just want a dependable vehicle.

While I was waiting on the coils, I began looking for the cooling fan relay. Many thanks to CaptainJaguars electrical pages that JagV8 put me on to! Without that, I would have never found space 25 in the front fuse panel location. The drivers manual doesnt even have that listed. Whom ever thought to call it space 25 but imprint the plastic with 60 is a ........!

What do you know - no relay. I see two blades sticking up though. I see that it needs an 80amp. Where would one go about specifying which one I need? Normal parts house? I dont have the old one to take in for a match. With any luck, this will fix the fan issue - but at this point anything can happen.

IF this works..........on to the DIY transmission spring issue. YEEEEHAW!

 

I looked at these readers on Ebay and they are cheap enough. I noticed that there were 3 different versions and wondered which one was correct - V 1.3, V1.4, V1.5 - I assme that this reflects the advancements in code reading and for each new one, a jump in price. The 1.3 can be had for $10. Will that do the job?

 

Not trying to promote any company, but you can get a real newest elm327 with the software for 60 bucks. These chinese knockoffs from ebay might save you $30 or $40, and may or may not work, or worse yet wreak havoc on the PCM if something goes bad. I'm ALL about saving $$ but those electronics are expensive.

Rick, as far as the gaskets, they are just standard duratec 3.0 fare. They have been around for a while, it seems that no one really made the connection before, and all the parts houses still havent.

Take care,

George

 

I bought the cheapest 327 I could find and it worked fine. I bought another for a mate, also worked fine. They're £11 (about $17), delivered from China. There's nothing wrong with them at all. Any version after about 1.2 works OK, the extra stuff is for heavy trucks (J1939) etc. Cars don't need it.

Or get a handheld unit, then you can keep it in the car.

 

What Software do the Chineese ones come with?? That's half the equation.

Take care,

George

 

The plain leads come with the same (free) software whatever you buy (or you can download it). If you want "better" software, it's extra or you buy a lead+software combo. Either way you'd pay more but starting with the Chinese item is lots cheaper.

 

I contacted a local Jag parts house and have never heard of that 80 amp cooling fan fuse being replaced and even suggested that there wasnt one. I had him look it up in the manual and eventually agreed that there was one.

Could anyone look at thier front fuse box and confirm that they too have one installed on a 2000-2001 or 2002? I am attaching a pic. You can see that it does have two male prongs that something attaches to. According to the manual, it is the cooling fan fuse.

 

Those prongs look rather like the relay has been pulled out leaving behind the broken off prongs. Don't rip them out without confirmation!

If you do remove them, don't short anything out as you do it.

The 80A fuse can be seen here
www.captainjaguarscathouse.com/Electrical_Guides/
just click on Power Distribution
Fig 01.1 at the top right.

 

[quote=jagv8;294817]Those prongs look rather like the relay has been pulled out leaving behind the broken off prongs.

I thought so too but they are acutally built into the fuse box I noticed similar male prongs on the smaller fuses along the top of the box, almost like a bus bar.

In person, you can see grooves where something had been slid on over them.

 

try to switch it with its neighbor you are just testing, anyways jsut make sure its close in amperage and a non essential fuse.

 

I think there's only one 80A fuse, so none to swap with.

 

60A should work as long as a non essential function,

Although those fuses can be found at NAPA or autozone or local parts store.

 

You are correct, there are no others to swap with..... I looked. I hope that when I do receive it and install it, it doesnt blow. Just thinking ahead...that would mean a short in the wiring. Could the fan module going out cause a fuse to blow? I just dont know why anyone would take that fuse out........unless someone blew it.

 

If you have a multimeter you can test for a short before installing the new fuse.

Either put the meter on continuity and probe the two tabs in the fuse box, or if no continuity setup put it on the lowest ohms setting, if there is a short it will be at zero or damn close.

A bearing or brush the fan motor can also create an undue electrical load and blow the fuse.

The control module enables the fan (it doesn't directly switch the high current power supply).

Take care,

George

 

It's going to be very low ohms (a lot less than 1), especially if not spinning (so no back EMF), isn't it? Easy to confuse with a short, I'd think.
Er, is that right? As I read the circuit diagram the fan is driven by the module (probably PWM).

 

Ok you people really need to keep me off the internet before I have my morning coffee.

IF there's a wiring short that's causing the fuse to pop, then it will show as continuity or low resistance. You're probing to the module (when you probe across the fuse) , not the fan's motor directly.

You're right about the 2nd part. The Module is driving the fan. I for some reason though PCM - which just sends the enable to the module. Sorry about that.

Take care,

George

 

Alright, help me to understand what I just read off the multimeter (I'm a Virgin). Set it to 2000 ohm. Placed a probe on each side of where the fuse would be. It generated a value of 1080 and kept climbing.

Disconnected the harness at the fan control module. Set multimeter to continuity. Set one probe on the no voltage side of the fuse and the other on the end of the wire. Multimeter went from 1 to 000. If im reading it correctly, there is no short and has continuity.......right?

With the harness disconnected, I did the same thing with the fan motor itself. multimeter set to 2000 ohm, value went from 1 to 002. Set the multimeter on continuity, value went from 1 to 002 and 001. It didnt go to 000 like the other. What does this mean for the fan?