I'm struggling on where to turn and need the Forums help. I've spent days going over the FAQ's, searches and so on but nothing that hits the nail right on the head.

2002 S-Type - 3.0 - 90k miles - Automatic transmission
Vin = M23435

Just bought the car and have no history on it and trying to get it road worthy. Had a dead battery on arrival. I have replaced it since.

Issues:

• Gearbox Fault - Transmission shifting hard (sounds like lurching from what I've read) but no slipping
• Overheating (replaced thermostat) still gets hot but can quickly recover once driving - perhaps more purging
• no heat inside the car(3 hoses - 2 are cool, one is hot
• radiator fan is not coming on.

An aquaintance has many Service Training manuals on the S-type that I have been reading. It states that the PTEC powertrain control module governs all the issues that I seem to be having. I cant find where the PCM goes bad, other than ocassionally getting re-flashed. I see that it goes through the firewall - any chance of water intrusion? That thing is hard to get to so I can inspect it. Lost my good craftsman ratchet in a back hole down there.

So, do I start replacing each piece that could cause the problem? There seems to be answers on every item that I'm having issues with. None revolve around the PCM.

I'm open to any input you all may have. I have yet to stack any major driving as I'm not confident I'll make it home so short trips around the neighborhood.

Thanks and I look forward to anyones reply!

 

First step is to get a good OBDII reader and monitor the sensors.

I'd your willing to shell out the cash a PCM reflash won't hurt anything.

For the interior heat issue search for DCCV it will need replacing. Depending on the severity it may have taken out the CCM. Which I have a black spare(make me an offer on it)

For the over heating issue use the JTIS and check the resistance of the coolant temp sensor or for good measure just replace it. You can find a suitable replacement at your nearest NAPA.

Check your coolant over flow tank for cracks. And aeriation (bubbles) open the over tank when cool and let the car idle to temp there should be no foam in the tank if there is then look for an air pocket.


There is your homework for now lol
Let me/us know your results please then it's on to phase II of troubleshooting

 

Mafiaso has you on the right path. I wouldn't jump to a module like the PCM, like he has said. Those actually going bad is really rare, even in the early cars. Your harsh shift is probably the common spring failure in 5R55 trans. There is an active thread with pictures showing the failed part and the service procedure for fixing it.

 

As much as I wish it would just be a single issue, it sounds as its a compound of multiple issues that I need to be looking at and tackle each one individually. I appreciate the realignment.

With the transmission - I read the DIY on the spring and easy enough. If I drive the car with this issue, will it leave me stranded or lead to other issues?

I did replace the expansion tank already. It had a crack.

I need to get my neighbors reader and dig deeper. It did find a pending issue with the O2 sensor.

Thanks!

 

So long as the battery was disconnected completely for (say) 30 secs, the out of date codes should have cleared.

The issues you list are not primarily PCM ones. And the PCMs fail so rarely that for now you can ignore that chance.

You should have the Ford 5R55N (so no "lurch" as that's the ZF 6HP26) and tdc just did a really good writeup with photos of work he did on his - worth a read even if you don't DIY.

Are you sure your DCCV has 3 hoses? I'd expect your era car to have 5. Both kinds fail and give hassles.

Yes you want to read any codes. Almost all OBD tools will only read the PCM, but that's a good start. The PCM does NOT control all the issues you have, e.g. it doesn't look after cabin heat.

The fan could be that the ECT sensor is providing the wrong value or some other problem (maybe wiring to the fan). If you read circuit diagrams, see http://www.captainjaguarscathouse.co...trical_Guides/
Don't just connect batt+ to test the fan without understanding the circuit.

OK, post some codes next
From AutoZone/PEP or a cheap OBD tool or a friend or ....

 

Alright - now i'm really puzzled. I followed your advice to replace the coolant temp sensor. For all that were like me and couldnt find it, its behind the AC compressor (drivers side) in the lower portion of the block. Bottom sensor is coolant, top is oil sensor.

Now the good part - When I removed the sensor, it had an oily substance on the end of it...........and no coolant came out. In my haste to get the sensor out, I forgot to drain the coolant. Why didnt it start pouring coolant? It was dry for the most part with no indication of coolant, just the oily substance. Tested the sensor and it's fine (23 ohms cold, 4.9 in hot water).

My neighbor seems to think that it has a vacuum lock somehow. Is this possible? I want to release the coolant fill cap but I'm afraid to in case there is a vacuum lock and it will go everywhere.

What do you think?

Got the DCCV (5 hoses) and Im going to install it this weekend. Given the coolant issues, should i just go ahead and replace the water pump as well so that I never have to worry about overheating again? It does have 90k miles.

 

I would go ahead and change out the DCCV, get enough correct coolant to do a full coolant change, and drain the coolant. Then follow the re-fill and bleed procedure. I think with a fresh thermostat and new DCCV, you will find that everything is OK.

 

A decent OBD tool would be worth having. Mafioso said so and he's right.

The elm327 is good and cheap. About $20 on ebay. Search there on
327 usb
or
elm327
or
327 obd

just get the cheapest

Or get a handheld unit although they cost a bit more.

They will let you look at PCM values (but not climate control values) so you could've read the ECT to see if it was working. Can't really have hurt to change it.

 

I installed the new DCCV and WOW - I have heat! Put in the new coolant sensor, oil sensor and drove it around. After about 40 miles, check engine light comes on and there is a mis. Went and had the computer read and the only thing that showed up was error code P0302 - cylinder 2 misfire.

Fan is still not coming on and if it sits running too long it overheats. Drive and its fine.

I'm about to search for P0302 and see what everyone says. Still dont know about the Fan issue. No other issues were read by their reader. It didnt even pick up the gearbox fault that was glowing in his face.

Let me know if there is anything that I need to be looking for.

 

P0302 is missfire on cyl 2. Chances are it will be the coil either dying or dirty/oily/wet.

How cyls are numbered varies with the year so be very careful. Details in this https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/a...achmentid=2914

Fan could be wiring, fuse, relay - there are others the same so try swapping if not tried already.

If battery's been off the gearbox code would be lost. If not and you're sure there's a fault try a decent code reader.

 

Smell the coolant for an exhaust odor. We need to rule in/out head gasket failure.

 

I can't thank you enough for that attachment Jag. But looking for the cylinder numbering was a disheartening discovery. My manufacture date was 05/01 so mine is 1,2,3 on the passenger side - which puts them right under the intake manifold.

Am I clear that I have to remove the intake to get to the plugs/coils? I hope not but it sure looks like it.

 

I just checked the odor............its brand new with only 80 miles or so but smelled like warm glycol to me, no exhaust odors. I looked for bubbles in the expansion tank and there were none.

Can this vehicles computer detect cylinder compression? I believe that my BMW's can. Can I do an old fashioned compression check if I get the cover off or is that too difficult to do with this car?

 

On the misfire issue, always seems to be a coil on the passenger side (US) that goes bad. The intake will have to come off to replace, which involves replacing the upper intake gaskets (not cheap). As long as you are pulling off the intake replace the IMT o-rings (dealer only but cheap). At 90k toss in a set of plugs too. If you were so inclined to do a compression test the intake will have to come off.

As far as the fan not running, if you have checked all fuses and relays, search out a post by Jon89 that found some chaffing on a wire harness that is accessed by removing the front under pan.

 

The coolant is orange - right?

 

Uhhhhhh - No. I had the orange in hand and the auto parts guy asked why I was using the orange when the others could mix and match with any color and at less cost. Since it was a complete flush of the system, I went with his recommendation. Did I make a mistake?

 

Yes it has to be dex-cool compatible. The green stuff doesn't play well in our coolant systems

 

this wouldn't have triggered the problem with the coil would it?

 

I doubt it, but if it's not the compatible kind then you could have sludge (gel) where the two types mixed, leading to the overheat

 

Rick, as far as the intake gaskets. I found the ford ones, $40 or so retail from FEL-PRO for uppers and lowers. It's not nearly as bad cost wise as it used to be. Part numbers in the cross compatibility thread.

Take care,

George