IT'S ALIVE!! thanks for all the great advice. I took the car to local lubestop and had them bleed system, then switch from a/c to heat several times and by the time I arrived home, I had heat. Apparently I did have an air bubble. Bonus - I didn't have to replace the thermostat. Once again thanks everyone.

 

Jeff, I am on far west Akron behind Firestone H.S. - I will be running a leg of the Akron Marathon this weekend. The hill on memorial parkway is a...let just say I have been walking up that monster.

 

Congrats on the fix.... To future readers: Don't forget that when working on anything in the cooling system to make sure you bleed it..

esipp: Ah yes...Memorial Parkway Hill.... Well, look at it this way, at least you don't have to run up "Caddilac Hill"... One of us should post that one in the off topic section as a video..No one would believe it! Good luck in the marathon.

 

Now back to the ORIGINAL thread.
I changed the AUX coolant pump on my 2005 STR. Funny thing is both the old and new pump work on the bench when powered with 12V??

I now have heat but it does not seem to be going all out yet? I can turn the heat all the way up to high and it is warm BUT NOT burning hot. Before this happened the heat would roast your feet easy.

I still have not changed the thermostat but do have one. Considering maybe changing that too??
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Hi all, heat is acting up again. I now only get heat when the car is standing still and idling. When I put it in drive the heat goes away and starts blowing cold air. Any suggestiions. Thanks in advance.

 

By "in drive" you mean even if still standing still? Does it happen with each of foot on brake or EPB on (to do this: foot on brake, then apply EPB and take foot off brake - don't try near any obstruction)?

 

"in drive" = driving around/ moving- no hear.
At idle/standstill = heat. thanks in advance
Esipp
04 s-type

 

several notes, 1 dccv closes when active, otherwise its normally open. so forget about the CM for this issue of operating the valve. 2 they do stick closed expecially if you dont live in a always cold dlimate.
3, no amount of "FLUSHING" will unclog a fully or partially clogged heater code and the do get plugged up. Ive cut em open. If theres no flow from plugging your not gonna get any cleaner in to magically open it up. Flushes are preventaive maintenance.
Now is youll disconnect the hoses to the heater core and use a rubber tipped airgun to blow compressed air through each line this does wonders for blowing crud out. I try to remember to do it when replacing dccv's. past that its replacement. and Tbird ALL circuits have fuses........

 

Hey, how have you got on with this..?

I have the same problem, my favourite indy is pulling is hair out... DCCV and AUX pump are fine, heater matrix and coolant lines clear and running, just no feed to the AUX pump relay and fuse okay....

Thanks ...Over the pond...

 

I think the aux pump is powered with ignition on (Position II I think) so if no power then either meter it through or it has to be a bad relay/fuse/connector/wire. If need be just run another feed

hmm, maybe I'm thinking of the SC pump - similar issues, though.

 

Thanks for taking the time to reply, the indy is trying a RCCM module as he thibks it is not telling the AUX pump to kick in, he can kick it in manually... i will update after weekendwhen he get's back to me..

 

V8 STR;
I think I am maybe too picky!! We got some weather in the 20-30's here in Texas and I have good heat. I am still confused about the AUX pump because the old one works when powered up on the bench. But the fact remains that after I changed the AUX pump on my 2005 STR I got heat. So something about the old pump was not right. Possible that the output was falling off with age much like a fuel pump? I only have about 75K miles so I did not think that would happen yet?

I also finally changed the thermostat with absolutely no change in engine temperature or heater performance. Amazingly easy to change compared to just about anything else on the STR!!

Yes the STR has two electric water pumps. The AUX pump which is the same as the NA 4.2L engine and a inter cooler pump for the SC cooling. They are both on the passenger side of the engine compartment up by the radiator.

It a bit hard but if you can get access to the AUX pump with your hand. Only way I found was from underneath after removing the belly pans. Feel if the pump is running when the ignition is switched on. I was by myself and could not verify this.

I think but have been unable to find out for sure that the AUX pump is controlled by the CCM or the RCCM if you have navigation. So maybe it is pointing to that? I thought the AUX pump should be running anytime the ignition is live but still not sure? I know that it does run after the car is shut off sometimes.

The AUX pump I think is relay controlled-no fuse. Maybe swap some relays just to check?
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Thanks for the reply, the aux pump does get the signal from the RCCM. My technician has ordered a new module to see if it is not kicking the pump in as the relay is okay but no 12v signal coming in. He says the pump should run constant with the ignition on, he has bench tested the pump and that works... I will have to wait until next week to find out, he has found every fault i have ever had on the STR my tech drives one too so knows how quirky they can be, so he knows his stuff. He does not know what is definately causing the pump to not kick in, but needs to rule the module out as this supplys the 12v command to the relay then try a seperate 12v bypass to set it off working.... I will reply back so others can get use of finding out the cure for future reference...

 

The auxillary pump is not direct drive it is via magnetic system so motor can run but pump mechanisim may not, could be that on the bench it could pick up water but not under load.

 

Good to know and that would explain the pump running on the bench. I did not check the output only that it would power up and makes noise.

Maybe if I get the itch I will take the old AUX pump and see if it will pump any fluid at all??
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I now have heat, just spoke with the tech.....

Yet again crappy wiring harness up front rotted by sitting water in the harness in the chassis. They had to strip her back replace and reheath the wiring, replaced the wiped out RCCM and we are in business.

Picture here http://rides.webshots.com/photo/2182...53427645mjfNUE

This looks like another thorn in the STR side, alongside the valley cooling pipe under the charger.....

 

Well on to the next chapter of no heat!!

After a blazing summer we finally got a bit of coolness and I needed some heat. But my 2005 STR was blowing ice cold when the heat was set to high. Already changed the DCCV and the AUX pump as previously posted. Don't know what to do but on the advice of Brutal (our in house Jaguar expert). I unhooked the three heater hoses and flushed the heater core forwards and backwards.

No flow restriction and no noticeable crud at all. Everything looked clean and normal. Buttoned everything back up and tested the car out. I got heat! Brutal says with the hot climate we don't use the heater for long periods and the heater core gets plugged up.

So if you have no heat do a dedicated heater core flush first. It's cheap and sorta easy. The heater hoses have a weird plastic push tab setup on two of them and one of those crappy spring clamps on the other one. Why they don't use quality Stainless worm drive clamps on such an expensive car!
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Oooh, Ooooh, I know the answer.... It is totally about ease of assembly.