2003 S type R and I noticed that the oil cooler lines are weeping and starting a tiny tiny drip. I want to be proactive about this. They look like a total bitch to replace and nearly impossible without dropping the front suspension cradle.

Options here?

My idea and let me know if anyone has done this. Just cut out and remove the OEM cooler lines altogether and install some AN fittings and stainless lines that are flexible?

 

Many discussions here about the very common oil cooler lines weeping/dripping in the S Types.


You are correct, total PIA to switch out from what other members have mentioned, more so on the V8s (less working room). Some have done the radiator screw clamp "fix" on the swage fittings, some have cut the rubber line, removed the swage fitting and just slid the rubber hose onto the aluminum line and double radiator clamped.


I should state that as I recall, I believe only those that had some type of warranty that would cover "rubber hoses" would actually fit new lines at a dealer for a cost well over $1000.00 many years ago.

 

Sadly the cars are starting to age and with age comes failures

Access looks very awkward, I'll be interested in how you fix it!

 

This link has a good discussion from forum members on weeping oil cooler lines.

Although you may have already found this link and even more. If you haven't, I thought it would help for you to see how others have dealt with the problem.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-lines-103473/

 

thanks for the link. Yes that was the first one I came across. I think my best plan of attach would be to possibly see if I can remove the lines and just go the AN-fitting route with stainless lines. I love the car, just a PITA to access stuff in such tight areas. If anyone else has some insight or experience with these lines I would love to hear it.

 

I replaced one engine oil cooler hose on my 2005 STR for the same reason.

Non SC cars don't have these lines so what everyone is talking about above are transmission cooler lines which are completely different.

Or am I wrong and you ARE talking about the transmission cooler lines?
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I'm in the process of installing an fittings/braided line to replace the leaking crimps.

I haven't finished the job yet but have fit the new lines and pressure tested the fittings. It's a fairly big job, requiring draining the coolant and removing the radiator fan and shroud to get access to the bottom fitting.

I'll post a full write up when is complete and proven to work ok. Here's a few pictures of what I've gotten done.

 

I really like the quality of your repair!

Can you say how much you have in it total?
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The fittings and line were $115, I bought extra line though to make sure I had enough. If I had bought what I ended up using it would have been around 100. I used a quart of lifeguard 6 also, $26 delivered. I'd say about $150 once you replace the coolant drained.

It can be done cheaper. I got the Teflon power steering line and fittings. Wasn't 100% sure the rubber line was ok with the fluid and I don't want to do it again.


So far no leaks, I just got it back on the road today so I'll check it after a week but looks good.

Btw if you do this repair it's a great time to change the dccv, plenty of access. I changed mine in August when I had the supercharger off so I didn't need to.

 

I read the old threads and I am in the process of this job myself on my son's 04 4.2 ~225,000KM.

I have decided to cut the crimps off the line and replace with hydraulic hose and high pressure clamps.

I have removed the fan and air box duct for access, and I have just finished a thorough decrease and pressure wash of the area. I plan on cutting the hose and removing the rad side fittings so I can prep them on the bench. The lower crimps I am going to remove in place using a Dremmel with a flex shaft and a small cutting wheel. The access is tight but I believe can be done with the oil filter spun off. I have a hoist so access is improved greatly when you have to work from below.

Unless the 13mm inside diameter hose is now available, I plan on using 1/2 inch line.

I also changed the idler pulley which I had on hand and now I also see the tensioner pulley is dry as well. I see it is available online separately from the tensioner.

Thanks,
John

 

The lines are 1/2". I used 1/2 inch compression fittings. The hose/clamp method should work fine.

If you cut the old rubber lines and remove the nut holding the lines up behind the oil pan they should drop enough to cut the crimps.

 

Here's a few pictures of the crimp cut off as well as the line measurement I can meaure them with a micrometer if anyone needs the exact measument.

 

So I just finished cutting the crimps off and removing the hoses. Not really that difficult and it can all be accomplished from the top with no need to remove the oil filter.

It was interesting that after the lines were cut they spun freely around the aluminum tube with virtually no friction. I am surprised more fluid was not getting by the junction. With the shrinking and hardening of the old hose over time it's no wonder they leak.

Keep the area surgically clean. I plugged each of the lines and fittings into the rad with silicone plugs to make sure no dirt or cutting dust got into the system.

 

It's been about a month since you've done this. I hope it's all turned out well?

I do like the idea of the AN fittings.
I wonder if I could ask you a few questions about your solution here?

I've never utilized swage fittings on aluminum tubing so perhaps you could share the actual part numbers and brand you utilized to end up with male AN fittings (of what dash size?) on all of the tube ends?

1/2" was close enough for a swage fitting then?

If you could describe the installing and tightening of these to the tubes a bit that would be great.

I gather that the ones nearest the tranny are easily fixed from below.

The ones nearest the radiator require exactly what (a list if you could) removed for access?

I ask because I'm uncertain but it looks like you've said some radiator hoses (which ones?), the fan shroud, drained cooling system, serpentine belt? and what else?

(pulleys and dccv are while you're in there items)

I'm intending to use a rolling mini pipe/tubing cutter - no metallic particles.
Is there enough room on the tranny side?

You also mentioned that you removed the pipe and fittings from the radiator side. Even with all of the items removed for access is that necessary in order to cut off the old crimps and install the new swage on AN adaptors?

Thanks.



I see from your photos in this next post that an alternative is just to use good 1/2" hose and quality rolled edge hose clamps.

 

I've put about 1000 miles on the repair and so far looks good.

Parts:

I bought the fittings and line from here:
Jeep Lift Kits, Lift Kit Options items in Performance Dynamics Speed Shop store on eBay!
They also have a website at :
Welcome to Performance Dynamics Automotive Inc - AN Fittings and Hoses

Here's what I used:

PRE-730825BLK -8 AN Male To 1/2" Hard Line Tube Tubing Compression Fitting Black qty: 4 @ $8.09 each


PRE-40800ABLK -8 AN Straight Swivel Hose End For Teflon Lined Power Steering Hose qty: 4 @ $10.69 each


-8 AN Teflon Lined Braided Stainless Steel Fuel & Power Steering Hose qty: 4 feet @ $6.74 /foot

This is the first time I've used an fittings, the tubing measures 1/2 inch so these fittings fit perfectly. I'm not sure where the 13mm dimension came from, but on mine they are definitely 1/2 inch.

The tubes were cut with a tubing cutter, sounds like the one you plan on using.

Here's the one I used: HDX Junior Tube Cutter-HDX003 - The Home Depot

It will leave a ridge on the outside of the tube that will need to be filed down and push burs into the tube that will need to be carefully removed with a hobby knife.

This is the main reason I decided to remove the fittings from the radiator side, to make sure the possibility of getting metal chips inside the lines is minimized. Another benefit is being able to use an airline and a bucket of water to pressure test the fittings before installation.

Installing the compression fittings was pretty straightforward. Once the ends are deburred the nut is slid onto the line followed by the ferrule and finally the fitting. You need two wrenches, 7/8 if I remember right , and tighen the nut fairly snug but not as tight as possible. Being able to pressurize the line outside the car allows you to get a feel for how tight to get them.

After cutting/deburring the lines by the transmission you can pull them down a bit until fluid runs out to make sure there's no chips inside.


The lines by the transmission are pretty accessible. I staggered the fittings here to allow me to tighten them if need be. There is a plastic clip that can be removed and another clip further back anchored by a nut.


Here's what I removed:

Belly pan and radiator shield
Air Intake Box
Expansion tank
Upper and lower radiator hose ( The upper one is removed to get the fan shroud out)
Fan shroud



It may be possible to do the job without removing the shroud or hoses but it looked like it'd be too much of a knuckle buster for me.


I recently had the ac compressor and power steering pump out and took a picture showing the new fittings a bit better. I've also attached a picture of the lines before installing in the vehicle.

For some reason some of my pictures end up upside down or sideways so you may need to turn your head ( or stand on it)


There's more than one way to fix these, I do a lot of highway diving so I decided to go the an route for peace of mind, the hose and clamp method may work just as well.


A few more notes:

It may be possible to directly install a male fitting into the radiator openings. I believe the fitting is M18x1.5. I haven't tried it but the thread pitch looked right. You'd have to come up with some way of sealing it.

The tubing is very soft, be careful of damaging it.

It will be necessary to check the fluid level in the transmission after this. I was about half a liter low total with what leaked out and the repair.


Let me know if you need more info
Mike

 

That's exactly what I was looking for thanks so much Mike.

Care to give a description on how tight is tight enough on the swage side of those fittings? A leak after everything is assembled would be a royal PITA I should think?

This is what makes forums such as this so valuable and makes owning these beauties that much more enjoyable.

I've done quite a bit of AN hose plumbing just never with a compression fitting on aluminum tubing and your success with the OEM setup is quite helpful and reassuring.

One thing puzzles me a bit? My experience with the rolling tube/pipe cutter has been that it leaves a very clean cut with a somewhat smaller diameter hole of course. I don't see the need to do anything after making the cut but your experience in this case was a bit different?

Are you rounding the edge on the inside of the tube then?

I think leaving as much of the aluminum on the radiator side is probably a good idea to ensure proper routing in the cramped location so I'll be attaching to the end of the tubes.

I'm still weighing whether to do like you've done or simply cut off the original crimp collars with a dremel and go with new hose and a couple of hose clamps.

I've used push-lock hose which is just high quality internally reinforced hose that slips over purposed designed barbed connectors for engine oil cooling and remote mount systems for 25 year stints that have never failed and only been replaced due to prudence. With those specialized fittings you don't use any clamps at all. So I think these original double barb ended tubes can probably be done in a reliable manner that way as well as long as you pick good hose and clamps designed for the job.

I could also take them intact to a local hose shop and they'd simple recrimp on new hose. As long as they get the orientation perfect that would be great. But that orientation issue is one reason to to fit and clamp the hoses on in situ at the tranny end so as to align everything as best possible to eliminate any chafing issues.

Thanks again.

Bob S.

 

It would be difficult to tighten the fittings after everything is back in. I think that if you tighten the fitting until it starts to grab the tube and then go another 1/2 to 3/4 turn it should be good. You want it pretty tight but not crushing the tube to the point it leaks.

The best way to be sure would be to pressurize the line somehow. I didn't want to get everything back together then find out I couldn't get the wrenches on the fittings.

I plugged one end and submerged the line and fittings in a bucket of water while pressurizing them with compressed air to 60 psi. No bubbles and they're good.

I went out and looked at one of the pieces I cut off. It looks like the cutter creates a lip on the inside, only closes it by about .015 inch. It'd probably be fine to leave it. I'm a machinist by trade so in the habit of deburring any cut edge.

I think you're correct on leaving as much of the tube on the radiator side. I cut the lower one as close to the fitting as possible. The upper I removed a bit more, just seemed to work better with the length of the fitting.

I think it would be a real nightmare to get the lines out in one piece to have them repaired. They are really intertwined with the other parts down there.

I think I've dealt with alot of the issues these cars have and this forum is essential to not only doing it yourself but having the confidence that help is available when needed.

Thanks!
Mike

 

Armed with this info I took apart a lot of my car today. Mine is going to be a bit more involved so I'm going to link to a new thread, shortly.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...8/#post1209888

 

Mike,

You listed the fan & shroud as being removed for this work.

I'm having to remove the engine oil cooling lines and they will not come out WO the fan & shroud removed IMHO.

So I located a couple of bolts near the top on each side but the intercooler pump and DCCV both seem to be bolted to that fan shroud so it will not lift out.

How did you deal with this? There is a Medusa like group of hoses emanating from those two units and it's not clear to me that I can disconnect all of them easily?

I do see one more bolt at the top of the pump but will that release those two assemblies from the radiator fan/shroud?


Thanks.


Bob S.

 

Hey Bob,

There is one bolt on the auxiliary coolant pump that needs to be removed. Once you get that out the pump will move enough to allow you to get to the bolt for the dccv from the top, no need to disconnect hoses.

You also need to disconnect the harnesses under the car on the right side (same side as the dccv). There are only two bolts that hold the shroud in.

There's a decent illustration of the harness connectors in the workshop manual. I use the pdf manual far more often as I don't want to get my laptop all greasy. I assume there's a link to it on the forum? If not I'll post one. It's 64 mb and 3316 pages, covers everything the jtis does(at least so far)

Hope that helps!
Mike