P1132 ???

 

I think that would be considered another secondary code.

Early models have low-tech narrow band O2 sensors. The sensor can only say if the exhaust is rich or lean, but not by how much. In a perfect world, in closed loop operation, the exhaust should be near perfect, neither rich nor lean. If it drifts rich, the sensor reports this and the computer trims back the fuel to lean out the exhaust. As things lean out, the same sensor now reports a lean condition and more fuel is added to correct this.

It's perfectly normal for the computer to slightly overshoot in each direction. Watch the O2 sensor output and you'd see it constantly switch back and forth every few seconds. It's like trying to paddle a canoe in a straight line by yourself. Paddle on the right and the canoe turns left. Paddle on the left and the canoe turns right. You have to constantly switch your paddle side to side every few strokes to go remotely straight. With an O2 sensor, this rapid switching is good and means the mixture is just about perfect. If no switching, it means the mixture is way off (for many possible reasons) and the poor computer is desperately trying to get back on course. Back to the canoe example, it would be as if you had a strong crosswind blowing you off course, and you had to paddle furiously on one side to compensate, never switching like normal in calm conditions.

Now I suppose the same P1132 could also mean a failed O2 sensor. However, considering the myriad other codes, it suggests a normal response due to some still undiagnosed/unconfirmed fault(s) driving the mixture excessively rich.

 

🤔

 

Well then 🧩
Guess it wasn’t that smart after-all to lock that thermovalve on open just to keep it cool two winters ago …
So I’m gonna try to purchase a tuned in thermostat , reinstall it and see if the fuel pressures match first thing in the morning ☀️

Thanks a lot y’all

 

 

 

Thanks for humoring me and testing the new thermostat before installation. Why the propane torch? Were you not allowed in the kitchen?

FWIW, I have a big old pot from the thrift store. I labeled it 'shop use only' and store it in the garage so it doesn't accidentally get used with food. But there's no problem heating it up on the stove.

By chance did you also test the old thermostat? What was the original issue that led you to mess with the thermostat? Overheating? Running cold? Low output from the heater?

P.S. I recommend a good weed/feed product for your lawn. I'm seeing some clover blossoms, which if left unchecked, can compete with the grass for nutrients.

 

Is there a difference in how much each thermostat is open/closed? Or maybe one was warm and the other cool at the time? Or is it just the camera angle?

 

Well well well …

MotoRad 7328-170 Fail-Safe Thermostat



Went shopping earlier today just to find out that those good looking Carquest and Gates boxes are full of Motorads !
The first Motorad (in the Gates box) was a disappointment , so I go to a different store and get all the Motorads (in the Carquest boxes) on the shelf , dipped them in that pot and picked a Motorad that was a bit faster (and then suddenly pulled it out of the boiling water , and now thinking maybe I shouldn’t have done that …)

And that was the most recent update from this exile in the woods

You gotta luv ☘️ the wild clover 🍀

 

Oy vey! Do I understand the situation correctly? You previously reported long term fuel trims around -50%, and now they have improved to better than -5%? That is a YUGE improvement!!!

Keep driving and see if any of the remaining codes clear themselves. You may need to make a few complete drive cycles to see any changes.

 

 

Any progress with the remaining fault codes? I wasn't quite sure what to make of your last post. Nice scenery and all, and it appears your odometer is working, but other than that I have no idea what you were trying to get across.

 

Well … it’s been 300 miles and the trims stills keeps on fluctuating …
And the only way to lower the temperature from 215-220 ish is to rpm the engine to 2000 for a few seconds when on idle …
I’ve also installed a new water pump a few months and thousands miles ago when the coolant line was wide open … So I am not sure why the water pump is seemingly out of sync with the flow 🤔

 

 

Well, some fluctuation is normal, especially with short term trims. The new thermostat didn't fix everything, and wasn't expected to do so. You most likely have multiple faults active, and so far you've only cleared one issue. Don't give up, keep plugging away. You've already made good progress, so keep at it. Please revisit post #20 for some suggested courses of action. I've even made a handy link to the exact spot:

Click Me! Follow the Directions! Click Me!

Looks like you slayed code P0125, so let's concentrate on P1121 now. Jaguar defines this as "TP Sensor signals inconsistent with MAF Sensor signals".

I was hoping this would clear up after P0125 was corrected, and the engine control system went back into normal closed loop mode. This doesn't seem to be the case, but don't panic. Strictly based on my over-inflated opinion, I'd suspect the MAF signal versus the TP. This is a little backwards from my typical thinking, as moving pieces are generally more susceptible to problems than fixed pieces. However, the MAF can have a thin film of crud accumulate, as it's hot and right out there in the airflow. Before loading anything expensive in the Parts Catapult (Pull!), I'd try cleaning the MAF first and see if there is any improvement.

Actually, try a quick calibration and also do a before and after reading for giggles. For the check, turn the key to Run but not start. See what your scanner shows for the MAF. It should be zero. Next, for the before and after, record the outside temperature and run the engine at idle. Record the idle speed and MAF value reported by your scanner. Repeat at 2000 RPM (still in Park or Neutral) After the cleaning, run the engine again. With the same engine speed and ambient temperature, do you see any difference in the MAF value? If so, the cleaning helped. I'm always reluctant to throw an expensive part at a problem, so try the test/clean procedure first and see if that helps.

Make sure you use a product SPECIFICALLY designed for cleaning an MAF sensor. Don't use some other stuff you may have laying around. Here's one product, CRC #05110:

https://www.crcindustries.com/produc...-11-wt-oz.html


There's also a throttle range calibration you can try, too:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ection-176446/

Some other things you can try:

1) Verify the actual fuel pressure at the injector rail using a mechanical gauge, and compare it to the reading on your scanner. Super easy to do. If you don't have a mechanical gauge, Autozone and other chains have free loaners.

2) For the fuel trims, disconnect the battery for a couple of minutes and then reconnect. This will reset all fuel trims back to zero until the computer relearns the existing sensors. Starting from zero like this, it may become more obvious exactly what is acting up when you see what is first to trip a fault code. The car may run better at first, as it uses some preprogrammed values versus live inputs, so don't trick yourself into thinking you've fixed things. But it may also give you some hope that all will eventually be good if you can identify and repair the erroneous input(s).

3) Still not sure what to suggest about the cam timing errors. Try the fresh oil and see if that helps.


This technically isn't a problem. 180-230F is the normal range you can expect to see. Cooling performance drops way off at idle when stationary. You've got minimal coolant flow from the water pump, and zero ram airflow through the radiator. The only airflow through the radiator comes from the electric fan, which is adequate but not virtually limitless like you'd get with forward motion.

Even though cooling performance is minimal at idle, so is demand on the cooling system as the engine is not working hard at all. It's normal for cooling to improve when you increase the RPM, as you are also increasing coolant flow. This does not necessarily indicate a problem.

I'll have to check my car for idle temperature, but can't remember off the top of my head. If worried 220 seems too high, we can troubleshoot the cooling system performance separately, but it shouldn't be causing the other fault codes. Unless you see the temperature climbing higher, I wouldn't worry about it for now.

 

Just a thought:

Before changing your oil, and while mucking about with all of the above things that Karl detailed above (all good stuff, BTW), you might want to add half a quart of ATF to your crankcase and let the car run for a while. This is an old mechanic's trick to try to clean up the oil passages in the engine a bit. ATF is highly detergent, but used for a short duration, will not harm your engine. The oil passages that feed your VVT actuators are very small and may have become clogged, impeding proper movement of the units.

 

I had my 4.0 V8 and always added .5 qt ATF in sub of oil... kept things pretty clean

 

I noticed this morning the wind was blowing in a different direction. Therefore, I must change my troubleshooting advice...

Nah, just wanted to emphasize the importance of checking the fuel pressure with a mechanical gauge. Don’t overlook this important step.

I watched the MAF values on my scanner last night. This is probably the original sensor and I’ve never cleaned it in the 12 years I’ve owned the car. But no current faults either, or any previous faults pointing towards the MAF sensor. On a 55F day, I recorded 0.7#/min at idle. At 2000 RPM in Park, it showed 1.7#/min. Driving at a steady 50MPH on a level road, I had 1.7#/min again at 1500RPM. Not sure how much altitude would skew the values, but this was approximately 1000’ above sea level. Hopefully this will give you a baseline for comparison with your car.

 

On idle


Still trying to find a store that has a Fuel Pressure Meter for rent … and after I match it with OBDII reading , I will clean the MAF sensor , and then match it again
☀️🌙
🛠🏕🦧
ps I’ve already tried it with tire gauge thou the reading wasn’t so exact 🤔

 

📶


And in the meanwhile I might as well clean the Throttle


Dirty MF TB