Hmm sheesh Jon, I am stumped. I am sorry I misled you on a new battery. It sure seemed classic though.


Are you able to stick your head out the door and listen for the EPB motor. I can't remember for sure, but I recall hearing the motor engage more than disengaging.


I cannot believe that your S Type is experiencing these problems especially at the low southern mileage that it has on the clock. Take it for what its worth, I would have put a new battery in Joyces with the problems that you are having.

 

Rick,

You didn't mislead me on a new battery. At 10 years old next month, my first thought was that my battery was failing. While I wish I had held off for a few days in order to do some additional research, I can't complain since my factory battery lasted as long as it did. And at least the battery is now ruled out of the equation. I just wish Brutal would stumble across this post and chime in. I know he doesn't appreciate being PMed so I'm not going to do that yet....

I haven't heard the EPB motor make a sound. I've listened in the cabin with the windows up, I've listened with the windows down, I've listened just about every way possible. I'm stumped at this point....

Keep in mind that our cars are 10 years old now. That's a lot of winding and unwinding on that EPB cable regardless of the mileage on the car. I won't be surprised if I really do have an EPB problem of some sort....

 

I can certainly hear mine going on and off.
The brake light on the dash should illuminate also as it engages and disengages.

 

Correct, Norri. And no red brake light appears or disappears on my dash since this problem began on Tuesday morning. Just one more clue that I probably do indeed have an EPB problem of some sort. Just exactly what problem and what's it's going to cost me to find it and fix it remains to be seen. I'm planning to conduct more research this weekend....

 

Hi Jon,


I did some research and the cheapest first thing to try is clean the MAF sensor and throttle body. This is about a 10 minute job and if you pull up some of my old threads I did a write up on it.




https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...e-fault-71113/


You may want to look at the battery terminal connections as well.


The next cheapest this is replacing the brake switches on the brake pedal. Before doing this I would recommend a scan tool that captures the Jaguar diagnostic codes.


Cruise control not working after master brake cylinder replacement




Worst case is replacing the throttle body at $800 or more a pop.




You could try this:


Copied from a Jag Forum, so might be worth a try.

Electronic Park Brake (EPB)
Re-Calibration Procedure
2003 MY-ON
S-TYPE
M44998-ON

Issue:
On some 2003 MY-on S-TYPE vehicles, a customer may report a concern of premature
parking brake pad wear or the brakes binding. This condition can result if the electronic
park brake (EPB) system is not re-calibrated after the removal of the rear brake calipers
to replace the brake pads.
Action:
Should a customer express concern regarding the above, refer to the calibration
procedure detailed in this bulletin.
1. Reset the EPB module:
a. Switch off the ignition.
b. Disconnect the battery for 30 seconds. For additional information, refer to STYPE
Workshop Manual Section 414-01.
c. Reconnect the battery.
2. Start the engine.
3. Firmly apply and release the footbrake five times.
4. Confirm that the message NOT CALIBRATED or APPLY FOOT AND PARK
BRAKE is displayed on the instrument cluster message center. This indicates that
the parking brake is in calibration mode.
5. Lightly press the footbrake pedal.
6. Apply the parking brake by using the EPB switch.
7. Release the parking brake.
8. Release the footbrake.
9. Confirm that the brake warning lamp is no longer illuminated on the instrument
pack and that the NOT CALIBRATED message is no longer displayed in the
message center.
10. Apply and release the EPB five times to ensure no error is present.

 

Thanks Mike. That's indeed great information to have....

My mother-in-law's Camry's front bumper got backed into yesterday down in Tampa so I'm wrapped up in the great "find-her-a-decent-body-shop" Friday project. You would think her youngest son (who lives a whopping three miles away from her) would handle this since he knows the area and I don't (I haven't been down there since 1988). It's the least he could do since my wife bought this Camry and gave it to her mother back in the summer of 2012 without either of her brothers contributing a dime. But no, he's just too busy with work to get involved. Makes me glad that I haven't seen this guy since April 2001....

I'll be sure to thoroughly investigate the new information you provided when I get some more time later today or this weekend. Thanks again....

 

Jon,


You're welcome. Jeez, those two morons are real prizes. How difficult is it to do an internet search or get some references from the insurance company?


If it does turn out to be a throttle body, you may want to check out car-part.com for a throttle body. I saw prices ranging from around $65 to $400 depending on condition.

 

Well, no. At speed it isn't - it's detailed in (JTIS, I think). It applies progressively.

I doubt you could do the trick you managed with the handbrake you mentioned, even so.

 

Jon - I think you'll be applying power to EPB motor to see if it moves or not. It makes a fairly loud noise so you'll know, plus if applied and you put car into N you will not be able to move the car.

If you do run (fused) power as I posted, only apply for short bursts. A stalled electric motor takes a lot more current and gets much hotter.

 

I actually had to do it thanks to my idiot step-son mentioned above. He never took care of the car and the brakes were shot. I was on the way to the brake shop to get them fixed when a right front brake pad fell out of the caliper. Not a recommended procedure but sometimes you gotta to do what you gotta do.

 

Intermittent rain here today and tomorrow and since I prefer to work outside in the sunlight where I can see much better and have unlimited service access all the way around the vehicle, my continuing efforts to find the source of my issue will have to wait for better weather. Once I get the rear end of the car up on my jackstands and pull the rear wheels, I'll be able to inspect the EPB cable assembly to see if it is still intact. I'd still like to find a way to pull whatever proprietary codes may have been thrown. As mentioned before, these codes will begin with either B or C....

 

Jon, you know you are welcome here, but a long way to go without a definite solution on the horizon.
Do you use the handbrake a lot? I ask because this may have something to do with worn brake shoes. You will know once you get it up and are able to listen back there for movement. If you have to take the wheel off, I hope it's not like Jan's, bang bang !!


Wayne

 

I thought "shoes" implied drum brakes, which our cars don't have.

To read the B/C codes from EPB module needs one of the special OBD tools: IDS/SDD, AE, etc.

(Well, not true - an elm327 can do it but who has the software? Maybe no-one.)

 

Wayne,

My S-Type does not have a handbrake. It unfortunately has an electric parking brake which automatically applies itself when you put the transmission shifter into Park. When you start the car, move the shifter into Drive, and drive away, the electric park brake automatically releases itself. So it operates automatically at the beginning and at the end of every drive cycle. As a result, the EPB components get much more use than they would with the typical handbrake (since the driver decides when to use the handbrake and when not to use the handbrake)....

That's part of why I have always despised this EPB system. I knew that sooner or later it would bite me....

The good news is that since it apparently failed in the OFF position, I can freely drive the car with no additional damage done....

When the rain stops, I'll get back on it. That won't be until tomorrow or perhaps even Tuesday....

 

Mine only auto-applies not when put in park but when in park (never tried drive!) and upon removing the key (provided the EPB paddle isn't held down).

With a manual handbrake we're taught ALWAYS to use it, so no more wear.

Any time I don't want the EPB on I just hold the paddle down as I remove the ignition key.

 

Jon attached is the location of the EPB Module. Seems pretty easy to access, maybe check connections.

 

Yes, access is good (on mine, opposite side) behind trim. Makes a change!

 

Exactly my experience. My first reaction when I saw that EPB was to wish it was the old-style manual handbrake. Now, I just love it, a huge improvement.

Jon, you are much more experienced than I, so all I can do is recap my story. I bought my STR over 3 years ago. The seller warned that the park brake pads were very worn, could not understand why, but supplied a new pair for me to fit. First, I read everything I could find about the EPB. Because of its position, and because there were several less-than-high-quality plastic clips and parts, it was said that regular inspection, cleaning, lubrication of cables and replacement of worn plastic parts was the key to a trouble-free EPB operation.

For all I know, Jon, you wrote that yourself - in any event, I love the ease of operation of the EPB, and have had no trouble whatsoever since the start of 2012. The EPB gets inspected, thoroughly cleaned and lubed about every 6 months.

 

The STRs have separate brake pads unlike the V6 versions and I believe the 4.2 as well.

 

Hmm... Why do think Jag decided to do that?