Basically Jon, I have a good rapport with our zone guys and they are on my voice dial. I did not price shop. I did use my zone card and my price came to $126.44.

The nice pimply faced kid offered to install, but I took my tools and made the switch in less than 1 minute. The clock and the EPB were the only thingies that needed to be reset to my knowledge. To reset EPB,depress foot brake and pull up on EPD switch. The memory seats as we all know sometimes lose their memory. My setting did not change.

 

Wimp maybe, warm wimp definitely!

wrong thread!!

 

I also had the parking brake fault recently, that has been successfully resolved thanks to Jag Forums. This is not the first time I have saved money and/or frustration thanks to this site. That in mind I wanted to add to this thread in case anyone else is having the same issue.

I live in Massachusetts and we had a very cold night (single digits). I went out to run errands only to find the car would not move and the park brake fault light was on. I called my mechanic and Jag service and both agreed given that is was very cold over night and the snow on the ground the park brake was most likely frozen. I was told if I could get it in a garage or have it towed to their garage they could take a look, get it thawed, etc., wait until it warmed up or even try moving the car back and forth or play with the release that might free it.

I waited a day, without luck so I turned to Jag forums and found this thread. I'm handy but not a mechanic so I didn't have the tools to test or charge the battery but thought based on this thread perhaps that was my problem. The battery was a Jag battery and being the second owner after a lease turn in, I suspected this was the original battery. Pretty good life 2005 - 2013. I took it to my local autozone, had it tested and while the battery was still good, it only had 40% charge. He offered to charge it but given that it was 8 years old, I live in New England and it was just the start of winter I opted for a new one. $150 later, I had an exact match, right down to the holes for the positive post cover and vent tube.

Once installed, I was VERY happy to see my problem was now fixed.

I did have to do the reset for parking brake, radio presets, clock and power window auto up. My radio did not ask for a code and did not lose my seat presets (go figure).

Who knew that the battery could have enough juice to start the car but not enough to work the parking brake.

Thanks again Jag Forums and in this case JoycesJag

 

Thanks for posting. Another one fixed with a battery!

The EPB sure sucks power.

hmm... don't need that final word.

 

Thanks for the input wigginout. I am glad this thread helped you out and saved you some time and headaches.

 

My 2005 S-Type (built in May 2005) continues to run strong with its original factory battery. I believe that keeping the cells topped up with water on a regular basis extends battery life considerably. I check the cells at least quarterly, and during our hot and humid summers I try to remember to check them monthly....

 

I believe that you are on something there Jon. Its funny how some batteries fail like ours in 5 yeas while others go what seems an eternity.


My daily is now on its 3rd battery and I have been checking them as you at least quarterly.

 

Hi Joycesjag,
Like yours my S came off the assembly line on the 14th Dec 2004 and was registered on the 25th Jan 2005. Mine also still has its original Battery but have had the odd time when the handbrake release message comes up. I have found that running the engine at about 2000 revs for a few minutes, usually builds up the charge enough to allow the handbrake to release okay. That is after turning off the ignition and waiting for all warning lights etc., to extinguish before restarting.
I think it is getting near the time for a battery replacement. Maybe treat it to one in the New Year.
Bye for now and thanks for your Christmas message.

Regards,
Inver.

 

I know this is a late post to an old topic but I had the same problem this week on my wife's 2005 s type and came here searching for answers. It was cold and the brakes froze up. At first I thought there was ice in the cables causing the problem. After it warmed up I still had the problem. Read the forum and found where it was suggested that the battery could be the problem . Charged it and still would not release. Talked to a Jaguar tech today and he confirmed that if the battery had dropped below 12 volts even with a recharge I would likely have to do a "hard reset" to reset the parking brakes. Not hard really. Came home disconnected the ground from the battery, touched the ground cable from the frame to the hot post to discharge the electrical system, reconnected the ground to the battery after a few min, put the charger on to make sure I had 12.5 or better volts and cranked the car. Brakes released fine. ( Be careful not to short something out, you can take the battery totally out of the loop if you feel better about it, what you are doing is grounding the positive leg of the electrical. Just don't have the battery connected.)
Will be getting a battery to put in it tomorrow.

 

Thanks for the input.

 

I left my 2005 3.0 L S type on my garage without use. When I turned it on the park brake was stuck, and a message of "park brake failure" showed on the dash. After reading your solution I used my car battery charger finding that battery was 70% charge remaining. I charged up to 100%. Took me about an hour and: Problem solved! Thanks to you Joyce!! I definitively love this forum!!

 

Glad to help you out. Though Joyce is my wife and its her S Type! I am Rick as my signature states .

 

And if she's happy twice, does that make her re-Joyce?

 

just went thru same problem with stuck emergency brake, chime all the time while driving new battery solved our problem

 

Hey guys, I have a similar long running EPB issue.

TL;DR - froze up while cold, thawed, reset, still issues - changed motor. Worked for a while. Issues again, changed battery, issues still (on and off), from issues once in a while to working fine once in a while. Car near to undrivable. Usually would disengage by keeping the car running for a while stationary. Would a battery booster help?

Full story:

Like for most of you, the issue first came in winter with the car standing outside for a few nights in -20C temperature. Got it running that time by resetting the battery. It disengaged but still showed the PB fault and beeped. The EPB motor was replaced (some 4 years ago). For a while it worked OK.

But soon the issue would come back. Get to the car in the morning and the brake is engaged and the fault light is on after ignition (or when trying to move or disengage manually). Would reset with the battery but usually the issue would remain after the reset. I would need to sit in the car with the car running for some 30 mins and then the brake would disengage. And would work fine for a while. Keep in mind I mostly drive long distances (some 300km at a time) so the battery being discharged is not likely. The issue would happen even the next morning after a long drive like that. Either way - suspected the battery so replaced that with a new one. No change.

Lived with a car like that for a while. But now it started acting up even worse. The issues when starting the car are the same. But now doesn't matter how much I reset it doesn't go away. I mean I can disengage the brake after much sitting around but it will not engage the next time. And it can do one of these things:

1. Drive normally, try to engage it while shutting off, say that it cannot and when I start it next time drive normally again without any issues or lights;
2. Drive normally but with a light on and the message PB fault but no beeping;
3. Drive with the light and beeping;
4. Drive with the message PB faul, Apply foot and park brake showing and beeping;
5. Same as previous but also the red light for PB blinking;

Please note - these all can come while driving seemingly out of nowhere. And they can stop the same - while driving without any change in circumstance. Is the car haunted?

Either way, I don't know if there's any other real chance to fix it apart from trying another EPB motor. I was thinking with the motor engaging/disengaging fine(ish) after letting the car run for some half hour - maybe a battery booster would help to give it that extra juice it needs? Or is it a completely stupid idea?

Sorry for the long post.

 

My 2005 S-Type 3.0's EPB system failed (with the park brake in the OFF position, thankfully) back in late April. I initially thought that replacing the original factory battery would fix it, but it did not. Turned out that my EPB module had failed. A new EPB module fixed the system. It had to be properly programmed once it was installed. We tried some used EPB modules first (without success)....

Usually it's the EPB motor that dies, but occasionally it's the EPB module....

 

Do you actually need it to work? Over here we do - for the MoT (annual inspection) test.

If you don't (*) then just keep the paddle pressed down any time you remove the key from the ignition. That stops it applying.

(*) it's also the E=emergency brake so non-use means some risk it won't apply if you ever need it

 

I do need it for MOT as well. Luckily I managed to have it to work on the last one in December. So fine until Dec 2016. But would like to fix it. Because now it's just completely random and the beeping drives me crazy.

 

You need to figure out what the problem is:
(Bowden-type) cable(s)
caliper(s)
motor
module
(anything I forgot)
or some combination

Unless you get lucky you may be in for the long haul.

 

Put the car up on a lift and watch while a helper exercises the EPB on and off. It sounds more like the brake is stuck 'off' and not 'on'.

I've posted recently on how to determine if the brake is working properly or not.