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Hi Bob thanks for the update but I have looked high and low in the Houston area but other than Brutal I can't find anyone with the SSD or a Mongoose to try it. He has not answered any messages since his first refusal.
Looking more and more like I will be leaving the Jaguar world on a very sour note! On top of all the repair problems I now have a time problem. Car is due a safety inspection before registration this month. So if it's not fixed before the end of December I will have another round of problems with an unregistered car. No inspection-no registration.
It's heart breaking but the junk yard is looking more likely every day. I have the fender, HID light and headlight bracket and have repaired the wiring problems. The used ECU I purchased from the UK is unknown but most likely good and just needs programmed with my car data.
Anyone in the Houston area with a SDD or Mongoose??
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Have you tried contacting H20BOY?. I remember some posts from him about using a Mongoose or SDD that he purchased. He is in the DFW area.
The CPU cloning appears to have worked? I have been calling to get it returned before they worked on it and with the harsh weather the delivery was delayed several days.
It was delivered yesterday. Today when I called to pay for the return shipping I was told the cloning was done and was successful. They stand behind their work and I asked what happens if it does not work and they said 100% refund of my money.
I am waiting for a call from their technician to talk things over because everything I have see posted about this says no go for this Jaguar ECU.
Will post updates as I find out stuff. This seems to be great news but wonder if the ECU will work when installed or have I created additional problems?
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It's entirely possible they did it - just that we've not heard of it done successfully before.
If they did, plug in and go
If you like, plug in bad PCM first, check fault(s) still present, then plug in clone and all should be good. I would say battery off when doing the swaps.
Well I got the ECU back after cloning and as Cambo said it did not work. Car won't even turn over and the red PATS light is on full red. Put my old one back in and car starts and is in restricted performance and still shows the 4 codes I had in the beginning.
Even better is the main connector was broken when they shipped it back to me. Nice. Had to be the replacement ECU too as the old bad one made it fine. Of course they also sheared a cover screw off on the old ECU.
Back to looking for a reprogram again with an SDD or Mongoose but running out of time.
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As you said that you would have to scrap the car you can not get it repaired. It may be worth the risk of using a clone to try and reflash the ecm. Before anybody says anything I know it is not the best idea to use a clone but in this case it may be the last remaining option before scrapping the car.
Thanks Ducmon but I just got the ECU back from the cloning outfit and it did not work. They claimed it cloned successfully but have agreed to refund my money since it did not work when I got it. Plus all the damage to the ECU I showed above. Cloning was NOT a good idea for me.
I had high hopes too.
Just got off the phone with a local British Independent repair shop. Sent them all the great info Cambo and Bob have been sending me. Guy admitted he was not up to speed on this but read everything and thinks he can do it. Has a SDD and Autologic setups.
Trying to charge me $600 going in but I explained to them the car is apart. Swapping ECU's right now is a 60 second process. All I need from them is the programming. I can handle everything else.
He did mention that if it did not work he would then go after the real problem. So I think they really don't think I have done enough troubleshooting and it's probably not the ECU as that is a rare failure.
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By "clone" was meant a clone J2534 device, in this case a Mongoose/Mangoose. IDS/SDD talks to the car via one of those J2534 devices (they're cables + computer internally).
You can DIY this BUT it would be better to use a non-clone AND in any case you MUST connect a hefty power supply to do reflashing. (Won't need one to read codes, but still a good idea.)
It's (a clone of) the very tool Brutal et al have but some are reluctant to try using for this kind of rescue mission.
(Your gov passed laws requiring (SAE) J2534.)
The reluctance, I suspect, is based on the rescue-via-VID-block / as-built data issue.
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As a thought, it may be that IDS will let you look at the signals you doubt - it can report all manner of internal things, far far more than simple OBD tools normally do.
It's safe to try - you KNOW clearly if you're about to WRITE anything i.e. you'll never try a reflash without knowing.
Jagv8 I only suggested that he use a clone because he said if he could not get the new ecu to work he was going to scrap the car. this was before he had found the individual who has the necessary equipment.
BTW worth sticking a battery charger on if you do it with engine off as it'll gradually drain the battery using any OBD tool for a long time and ignition on.
If the car is facing the scrapper then there is nothing to lose in trying a flash with a clone.
But, don't get a $50 ebay special with their crappy virtual machine setups. The way the software is installed is also a contributor to failed flashes.
Years back when I first started out I reflashed the PCM in my XJR (and in a couple of other cars) using clones, and was successful. Knowing what I know now, and with the wisdom of hindsight, I was lucky that it worked. And a couple of times it did fail, once I was able to recover using the clone, another time I wasn't & it was real headache.
These days with a better understanding of how to set it all up, it could be less risky, and if it's the "last chance" to save the car, then it's worth trying.
OP, please don't take this the wrong way. Can you read and understand the wiring diagrams ? I would manually check all the wires associated with those codes.
have you checked fuse F37 front power distribution. Should be 15amp.
EGR and evaporation share that fuse.
also the maf code inhibits purge valve. Purge valve is on the same circuit as EGR.
check from EGR, maf and purge valve to ECM connector. Check each wire for continuity, check that the wires aren't going to ground. It's will be a pain, but check cross continuity with the wires in those 3 circuits.
ie check from maf pin to purge valve connector, etc. Hope you understand.
BATTERY DISCONNECTED. ECM DISCONNECTED. EGR MAF AND PURGE VALVE DISCONNECTED.
Well up thread I explained that all the wiring has been checked. I have the complete factory wiring diagrams. All 300 pages!
Yes I have checked directly from the main ECU plug to the sensors associated with that error code. There are no wiring problems or sensor problems. Remember that before the accident the car had zero problems. Everything started at exactly the time of impact.
A crash does not make 4 sensors go bad at the same time. That was caused by the wire harness damage and shorting different wires together and to ground.
This is further backed up because the ECU was sent off for repair but they could not fix it and said the main board in the ECU needed replacing.
So I am about 99% sure the ECU is the problem. But I have an appointment next Monday at the shop with the SDD.
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Well up thread I explained that all the wiring has been checked. I have the complete factory wiring diagrams. All 300 pages!
Yes I have checked directly from the main ECU plug to the sensors associated with that error code. There are no wiring problems or sensor problems. Remember that before the accident the car had zero problems. Everything started at exactly the time of impact.
A crash does not make 4 sensors go bad at the same time. That was caused by the wire harness damage and shorting different wires together and to ground.
This is further backed up because the ECU was sent off for repair but they could not fix it and said the main board in the ECU needed replacing.
So I am about 99% sure the ECU is the problem. But I have an appointment next Monday at the shop with the SDD.
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Well up thread I explained that all the wiring has been checked. I have the complete factory wiring diagrams. All 300 pages!
Yes I have checked directly from the main ECU plug to the sensors associated with that error code. There are no wiring problems or sensor problems. Remember that before the accident the car had zero problems. Everything started at exactly the time of impact.
A crash does not make 4 sensors go bad at the same time. That was caused by the wire harness damage and shorting different wires together and to ground.
This is further backed up because the ECU was sent off for repair but they could not fix it and said the main board in the ECU needed replacing.
So I am about 99% sure the ECU is the problem. But I have an appointment next Monday at the shop with the SDD.
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sorry I didn't see that bit. Have you checked the fuse.?
After all the posts, help, his persistence, following the workshop manual (which does mention fuses), the diagnosis, ...
hmmm........
circa 2002. We had a xkr with adaptive cruise.
after a drive it would say cruise inoperative.
switch off. Start up. Would be fine again for however long it decided. When it was at fault wds wouldn't communicate. It was an intermittent fault. Dealer tech said put a new cruise module on it. £1750 under warranty. New module. Car goes away. All working. Comes back few weeks later. Dealer tech support send engineer.spend half a day checking things.
eventually he tells me to check every fuse. I found a blown fuse that wasn't listed as part of the cruise circuit.
security sounder I think. Replace fuse and sounder. Cruise then worked fine. The fuses related to the cruise were all checked and not even on the sounder circuit.
hmmmmmm. Im only trying to help a fellow jaguar driver.
