I should have searched the forum before I did them, because apparently I'm at least the 3rd member to have the same outcome. Anyways, now I need a power steering pump, as spinning donuts is like pressing a magic button that grenades them.

 

Don't hold it on full lock!

 

Lesson learned the hard way; that's how I felt right after.

 

Damn Anyone knows why that happens?

 

Can't say I have heard that before?? The most common outcome of doughnut spinning is crashing the car into something when the rear end comes around too quick!!

We have at least 3 people post car damage after such fun. One guy even had a friend of his smash it while he was in the car!!

Is the pump leaking? Making noise?

Remember we can most likely use the Lincoln LS pump too. I have had them side by side and can't find any difference. But maybe internal changes??
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Hmmmmm not got an str but plenty of donuts and no problems with pump, wish it had lsd though

 

Fluid started gushing out of the front seal right after. There's a thread from about 4 years ago where 2 other members said it had happened to them. Anyways, I have a pump on order so the car should be back on the road Wednesday as long as I have the time to do the work. At least I got some good pictures !

 

Lol ..I'm One Of Those Guys..

 

Good to know. I am a sucker for doing these and to date the only "damage" I have done is wearing out my tires prematurely but I think I will stop doing these while I'm ahead! Besides, tires are $$$ to replace.

 

Can you let us know how the pump replacement goes? I have a small leak on my 2005 STR and am taking it in to the dealer because I can't see where the fluid is coming from.

It looks like the JTIS says you need to raise the engine to get the pump out. Just so tight in there I thought it was the large hose going in the pump as I have fluid dripping there. But changed that and added a worm drive clamp with no effect on the leak.
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I will have the new pump tomorrow, so I plan on getting to it sooner than later since I have an appointment with the drag strip on Friday (I guess I just don't learn).

 

tbird-

The car had a persistent ps fluid leak as well so had a go at replacing the reservoir to pump hose C2C6157 and several squeeze and worm clamps. Needed to replace the ps pump to get it right.

In this thread https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-number-95075/ post 3, picture 6 shows the squeeze clamp where my leak was coming from. Ultimately, replacing the ps pump did the trick. I bought it at rockauto.

hope this helps

thanks-
mag

 

Well we do think alike! Replace the hose and then add extra clamps. I am behind you as I am just now going to change the pump.

You are right my leak is exactly at that clamp. I just wish the STR had room to work like that! The JTIS says the engine has to be raised and I don't really have a good way to do that.

Thanks for the Rockauto parts source. Always a bit worried about the Cardone brand. Has been a low quality brand for me. How long ago did you change the pump?

Are you happy with it?
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Got the pump in today, not the easiest task that's for sure. To raise the engine, I just used a floor jack and a block of wood on the edge of the oil pan. The wood is soft enough to absorb the weight and the edge of the pan is rigid enough so it doesn't dent. Overall, the job was messy and it sucked. Don't spin donuts, changing the pump is not worth it. A couple tips for those doing this yourself: Have the pump loose before loosening the pressure line, there is a lot more room that way. Also, be careful when raising the engine as an AC line will hit the frame and could stress/break if you go too far.

 

Hey QuartzSTypeR thanks for that!

Any other words of wisdom? Did you unhook anything before jacking up the engine. I assume you had to looosen the motor mounts so you could get the engine up?

Any coolant hoses or just be careful and don't go too far?
Sounds like you knocked it out in a couple of hours.
Did you get the pump from Rock Auto?
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I got the pump from AutoZone (Duralast, remanufactered in the USA, blah blah). I have a p.s. pulley puller, so you will need to rent one if your pump doesn't come with it. You only need to unbolt the driver side mount, but be careful putting it back in as it may lose the center line form the bolt to the hole in the frame. I did not have to remove any coolant lines. Looking back, I may have been able to get away with not pulling back the fender liner, but that only took a couple minutes anyways. When putting the pump back in, put the longer of the top pump mounting bolts in before you have the pump in place or you won't be able to get it in between the frame and the pump. Also, make sure the pump is the same as the one you pulled out before you start. There are a couple different housings and one of them will not work as the bolts will not be long enough and the back bottom mounting point will not clear the AC compressor (learned that one the hard way too). I have a lot of automotive experience and it still took me about 3 hours.

 

Haha, this exact thing happened to me with my X-Type. My pump was on its way out anyway so I wasn't too upset over it. But yeah, full lock is what killed it

 

I'm thinking mine may have been leaking before hand slightly as I had seen some buildup around it and just below the valve cover but it didn't seem that the valve cover had been leaking so I think the pump my have been slinging it up and around. I also haven't seen any signs of the valve cover leaking since I cleaned it up after replacing the pump; but I will monitor it since its only been a couple of days.

 

You are right in there is not much room. We changed/tightened clamps as you have done, but had an Indy shop do the pump exchange. Labor was reasonable and as far as CArdone, I have received similar feedback about their products. So far, I am pleased with it as the steering wheel turns easily with car stopped and smooth at speed. No odd groans or shimmying, either.

Now thanks for the reminder, I still need to return the pump core.

Thanks
Mag

 

Thanks for the help and suggestions. Very useful!

I wanted to add a few details.

Looks like the STR and the 4.2L NA share a P/S pump. The JEPC has the same factory part number of # XR828121 BUT they also show a part number change after serial number N65544 which is very late in the S Type production for both the STR and the 4.2L NA.

I will follow QuartzSTypeR suggestion and get the AutoZone Duralast P/S pump # 5841 it's $210 with a $29 core charge. Special order.

There is a Teflon ring on the pressure hose connection that I always change on other pumps and I will change it on the STR also. We are lucky to share parts with the Lincoln LS here because I found an aftermarket Teflon ring. Help #82540 has two different sizes that covers most Ford applications.

Here is the JTIS picture and they recommend changing this every-time the connection is broken. I have found the Teflon is usually shredded after taking the connection apart anyway.


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