Quick HID Retrofit Questions
Hi All-
I’ve got a pair of factory HID headlamps on the way for my 2002. I’ve read through many of the threads already posted about this and it looks like the “best” way is to use an aftermarket battery harness and relay. (This makes perfect sense to me) I’ve read Brutal’s notes about the negative trigger for power, which makes me lean toward using a harness for simplicity. I know the auto leveling and such is off the table, which I’m totally okay with.
I do have a couple questions I wasn’t able to find in the previous threads…
- If I wanted to use an aftermarket harness and relay, where could I safely pull power from? Would I have to run a line all the way back to the trunk to the battery? Avoiding the factory wiring for anything except the power on relay seems like the way to go.
- When you use an aftermarket harness, can you still use the factory ballasts? All the retrofits I have ever done use the typical AMP connectors for power, which won’t be present on the factory ballasts.
If I missed these answers in another thread, I apologize. Happy to check out those threads.
One thing you guys might be interested to see as I do the work…
I’ve retrofitted HIDs for over a decade now in all my cars. From experience, I’ve learned to be very careful with them; specifically around auto headlights. If you’ve never been to LA, parking garages are the norm pretty much everywhere you go. I’ve never been a huge fan of the idea of having my HIDs fire every time I’m in a garage for a few minutes at most.
But I still love my auto headlights. So what I’ve done in the past is wire in a separate switch between the factory plug and the battery harness, to toggle the low beams on/off manually. This has worked really well and has definitely extended the life of my ballasts and bulbs. I’ll share some pictures once I get going on the install.
-G
I’ve got a pair of factory HID headlamps on the way for my 2002. I’ve read through many of the threads already posted about this and it looks like the “best” way is to use an aftermarket battery harness and relay. (This makes perfect sense to me) I’ve read Brutal’s notes about the negative trigger for power, which makes me lean toward using a harness for simplicity. I know the auto leveling and such is off the table, which I’m totally okay with.
I do have a couple questions I wasn’t able to find in the previous threads…
- If I wanted to use an aftermarket harness and relay, where could I safely pull power from? Would I have to run a line all the way back to the trunk to the battery? Avoiding the factory wiring for anything except the power on relay seems like the way to go.
- When you use an aftermarket harness, can you still use the factory ballasts? All the retrofits I have ever done use the typical AMP connectors for power, which won’t be present on the factory ballasts.
If I missed these answers in another thread, I apologize. Happy to check out those threads.
One thing you guys might be interested to see as I do the work…
I’ve retrofitted HIDs for over a decade now in all my cars. From experience, I’ve learned to be very careful with them; specifically around auto headlights. If you’ve never been to LA, parking garages are the norm pretty much everywhere you go. I’ve never been a huge fan of the idea of having my HIDs fire every time I’m in a garage for a few minutes at most.
But I still love my auto headlights. So what I’ve done in the past is wire in a separate switch between the factory plug and the battery harness, to toggle the low beams on/off manually. This has worked really well and has definitely extended the life of my ballasts and bulbs. I’ll share some pictures once I get going on the install.
-G
Last edited by LLLA; Feb 13, 2022 at 03:45 PM.
If you download the correct wiring diagram for your model year from the web site below you can see the difference between the HID and non-HID wiring set-up.
From that you should be able to work out what is needed.
It is only the dip beam that has the ballast. The main beam is a normal lamp and uses the same switched earth in both headlamp types.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
It should be noted that the rules when fitting HID headlamps requires the fitting of effective headlamp washers in some regions around the world.
This us the case for the UK and the EU for example.
I am not sure about the US?
Mellow
From that you should be able to work out what is needed.
It is only the dip beam that has the ballast. The main beam is a normal lamp and uses the same switched earth in both headlamp types.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
It should be noted that the rules when fitting HID headlamps requires the fitting of effective headlamp washers in some regions around the world.
This us the case for the UK and the EU for example.
I am not sure about the US?
Mellow
Last edited by M-e-l-l-o-w; Feb 14, 2022 at 04:10 AM.
If you download the correct wiring diagram for your model year from the web site below you can see the difference between the HID and non-HID wiring set-up.
From that you should be able to work out what is needed.
It is only the dip beam that has the ballast. The main beam is a normal lamp and uses the same switched earth in both headlamp types.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
It should be noted that the rules when fitting HID headlamps requires the fitting of effective headlamp washers in some regions around the world.
This us the case for the UK and the EU for example.
I am not sure about the US?
Mellow
From that you should be able to work out what is needed.
It is only the dip beam that has the ballast. The main beam is a normal lamp and uses the same switched earth in both headlamp types.
JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource
It should be noted that the rules when fitting HID headlamps requires the fitting of effective headlamp washers in some regions around the world.
This us the case for the UK and the EU for example.
I am not sure about the US?
Mellow
No requirement here in the US for washer or leveling. Most states do not have inspections either.
I know...you're right...I still might do that. I might just go LED and say forget it. (I paid $40.00 for the pair of HIDs) I just love the clean cut off....and the fact that the fog lamps are projectors as well, you get that really clean double line.
I think I have this all figured out, the only thing I'm missing is a way to pull direct 12 volt power from the battery in the engine compartment, without having to run a line all the way back to the trunk. The idea here is I'm trying to avoid running the ballasts off the factory wiring for the original halogens. I'm guessing pulling that amount of power off the control unit probably isn't the safest option.
Looking at the wiring diagrams I think the only place I can do this is at the main distribution box. I'm not crazy about having to go in there (or splice in between) to find power, but if that's the only way I will. I've already found good grounding points. Any ideas on where I could find a (relatively) easy direct battery line?
-G
Looking at the wiring diagrams I think the only place I can do this is at the main distribution box. I'm not crazy about having to go in there (or splice in between) to find power, but if that's the only way I will. I've already found good grounding points. Any ideas on where I could find a (relatively) easy direct battery line?
-G
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I've done both HID and LED conversions. The wiring issues aside, I prefer the HID units myself. The LED's are bright white of course, but don't seem to project as far down the road as the HID's. To me, installation is part of the decision. I'd go with brighter bulbs.
I am making progress here, but where I’m now stuck is a proper place to run some small cables through the firewall. I tried using the grommet used for the hood release but I cannot get my hands down far enough to grab the fish tape I put in.
Anyone know of a relatively easily accessible spot I could use to get through the firewall?
Anyone know of a relatively easily accessible spot I could use to get through the firewall?
When driving at night, I like to have bright headlights that can pierce through the darkness. I want to see the road ahead as far as possible, especially during inclement weather. For this reason, I had HID bulbs installed in my car and find an aftermarket shop that gives quality ballasts to run my HID bulbs.
Hey there this is my first post in the jag forum and I am doing just what you are right now. I have figured out that my 2000 jag with hid setup out of a type r 2005 all I had to was switch my positive and negative wires to make the hid fire but the click and kinda flicker. I am now going to just install a relay harness and use the factory wires for signal. To help you I have a 2000 4.0 and there is a battery lug in the inner wheel well you can pull the constant power from. I think I saw in on the passenger side.
Hey there this is my first post in the jag forum and I am doing just what you are right now. I have figured out that my 2000 jag with hid setup out of a type r 2005 all I had to was switch my positive and negative wires to make the hid fire but the click and kinda flicker. I am now going to just install a relay harness and use the factory wires for signal. To help you I have a 2000 4.0 and there is a battery lug in the inner wheel well you can pull the constant power from. I think I saw in on the passenger side.
This project escalated really quickly for me…even going so far as to bake open headlights and engineer a solution to fit my needs. I need to do a write up for you guys.
I also now have an abundance of extra headlights and parts; going to put up a separate post offering them up for free. (All I would ask is for you to cover shipping)
Hey man I just figured out that all I need is a relay set up to throw a good ground. It seems our cars have a pulse ground signal on the halogens. I'm on way to the store now to pick them up and wire them in. I'll report back.
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