Given the awful estimates of time & money to replace the rear stabilizer bushings (I have large hands and would not be able to manipulate the change process), has anyone considered a more top down approach?
I don't know if it would be practical, but could one cut suitable holes through the trunk - enough to change the bushings, then reseal the holes?
Any idea where to cut?
Obviously the goal would be to do this as esthetically as possible (for resale purposes), but it seems it has to be easier than the 6.5 hours and megabucks to lower the whole rear end!!
Any comments (other than you must be mad of course)?
Mine is a 2003 S-type 4.2 base

 

Is this estimate from the dealership or an independent? I replaced the ones on the front but not the back and I find it hard to understand where 6hrs labor is from.

 

The rears do sound tough to change on the 2003+ cars (maybe the earlier cars, too - I never looked).

 

The area above rear stabilizer bar bushing is structural area - it affects the torsional rigidity of the body. Cutting hole big enough for bushing bracket access is not recommended.

JTIS procedure is to drop the subframe.

Is there a reason for wanting to replace the bushings?

 

I would have to agree here. Dpn't cut any holes in your car! Just follow the JTIS and if you can't then pay to have them properly changed.

I do have to ask because no one is changing the rear ones. How do you know they are bad??
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There was a thread somewhere on the estimate given someone by a dealer to do this job and it was BIG. I don't know for sure if they do need doing, I will get my camera on a stick and evaluate more.
I have already done rear tie rods and stab bar links but am still getting thumps from the rear. These thumps are worse when both wheels go over the same crack/bump simultaneously. One wheel at a time gives less bump. This seems to point to sway bar issues.
Thanks however for the structural info, I guess I'll have to save up for an expensive Canadian Dealer job! (if they need doing)

 

Are rear stabilizer links in good condition?

- scratch that comment, you already replaced it -

 

If you unhook the sway bar end links and then drive where you normally get clunking. That should tell you if it's the sway bar bushings?
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I had my car on the lift and looked at the rear stabilizer bushings. I have not done this but I think that both could be changed using a crows-foot wrench without dropping the sub-frame. I would give it a try before I spend $600.00