I know he meant well. Really I do.

Quiet Sunday afternoon - nothing significant on the Honey Do List - everything vehicle related closed - go shopping (whoopy) with wife and plan to go onto a movie - exit mall and the battery is dead as a door nail. Call to son-in-law for assistance. He is not home. Leave message to please Text me so that he can give me a jump start. We walk to mall theaters.

He decides to surprise me, and I confess that he almost never fails to surprise me He stops at Sears to get a new battery, bless his cotton picking heart, and texts me about how expensive and heavy it was. In between bites of popcorn I am thinking - OH NO! Tell me it ain't so! He's lucky he can find the fill cap for fuel, let alone set up a jumper to salvage the codes.

While we are in the movie he changes the battery out - who knew that they taught such tasks at his daycare center experience. So now everything seems to be running correctly, except that the Apply ParkBreak/Parkbreak Fault, Break and ABS warning lights.

How do I reset to come back to normal?

Thank you!

 

I saved this to my bookmarks for future reference.

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...3/#post1084119

 

Sounds like a 4.2 not 4.0 and why "improper"?

 

Correct - it is a 4.2.

Improper because at the least I would have jumpered the terminals to another power source so as to maintain settings.

The issues are: Apply ParkBreak/Parkbreak Fault, Break and ABS warning lights are lit.

I read somewhere last night that I should disengage the battery cables, and briefly short them together to Reset to factory settings. Is that advise trustworthy?

 

No. Sounds like you need to recalibrate the EPB. Any DSC fault should go away when driven if the battery is now good (they often don't come fully charged) or else you've a fault.

 

There is lots of detail in various posts on battery disconnect as noted above by Zenfly: but basically: while stepping on brake pedal, pull up Electric Parking Brake.

Also reprogram global close of windows (if you aren't aware of feature holding down unlock on key fob opens all windows and sunroof): Hold the window switch in the up position and hold about 3 or 4 seconds after the window comes to a stop. Do the same going down. Repeat for all windows (using the driver's switch pad)

 

That would be improper.

 

I would defer to postings on here by Brutal who seems to know vehicles inside out:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...d-reset-38112/

"Wow I guess Ive been doing a hard reboot wrong all these past 13 years........
For ya'll that dont remember, you have to have a COMPLETE circuit for power to flow. If the negative(or pos) is unhooked from the battery you can touch the DISCONNECTED negative to the STILL CONNECTED(or visa/versa) Positive. There is not a complete circuit and no power flows. you can disconnect both if you feel more comfortable, but its not neccessary, it just takes more time. The reason I and others say disc the negative is 2 reasons
1) it useally the closest and easiest to access
2) theres is useally little or nothing else hooked to it
The reason it works on the capacitors is THEY still have a complete circuit on the car so you are giving their positive terminal a path to ground to discharge them. And since the ignition provides a mechanical link to circuits that are isolated. You can/should also switch the key to the on position while the battery is unhooked and hard reboot again. Then shut off the key and go back and reconnect the battery.....and no a hard reboot will not clear codes on ODBII. While it MIGHT, turn off a check engine light(depending on WHAT, the stored codes are) they DO NOT go away. There are codes that will only show when active/pending, and if you shut off the ignition they may not show even with Jaguars IDS(again it depends on the code/situation"

 

And if the OP follows that advice, he'll be back at square one with everything needing to be reset yet again- the very thing he got upset about.

I bet if the SIL knew he'd get a semi-public mocking for his efforts, he'd have left them in the parking to sort out their own problems. No good deed goes unpunished it seems.

 

Lol, true Mikey. My impression was OP has not reset anything. Under those circumstances, I would just do a full hard reset and start from scratch, in case any other gremlins are at work. Just my opinion....

 

Check that he got the right battery. It MUST be vented outside the trunk and most people don't have a clue about this.
.
.
.

 

There's no evidence of any gremlins, just the standard stuff that pops up every time the battery is disconnected. Recalibrating the EPB takes far less effort than figuring out a way to jumper the cables during a battery swap.

 

Problems solved. Vehicle is in learning mode and the only things I immediately see is that my highway MPG seemed to have dropped from the low 30's to the mid 20's. I assume this is a function of adjusting to way I drive?

And that the shifting ratio in the lower gears (automatic) is not as acute. I tend to use the lower gears for breaking, which might be why my brakes lasted for 80,000+ miles?

The solution to the Warning Lights was : While stepping on brake pedal, pull up Electric Parking Brake. Minor adjustments of clock and radio.

Thank you Quantico and the rest of you as well!

 

If all is well (you can't tell yet), it's relearning. It can't get the fuel accurate till it does and it'll get better (again, if all is well) as time goes on.

I would actually monitor via OBD because it's cheap and easy plus I hate to assume stuff is OK. I'd check when P1000 goes to P1111 and also watch fuel trims (LTFTs).

 

The average mileage calculator was reset to zero when the battery was disconnected.

 

I digress and sound indignant.

Well, Duh! I know that. Sheesh. So was the radio and Trip A and Trip B and the seat memory and probably a few other things I have not noticed yet.

I took an 160 mile round trip interstate drive at anywhere from 65 to 95 mph today to get the highway number. Noticed that at 75 engine is running around 2,300 RPM and around 3,700 at 95. Runs like a top. This model just continues to amaze me.

Actually drove to Jag dealer to test drive a 2016 XJ with standard wheelbase and 5.0 Liter 550 HP V8 and the XF, which is like a puppy compared to the XJ. The XJ is very impressive. Stomping on the fuel pedal is hard to describe - it sort of shoved my body into the seat and reminded me of the g-force you feel on a steep drop on a roller coaster ride. Seems like it senses the angles and tilts of the road and almost navigates itself. It just glides down the road and I could definitely see the need to monitor the speedometer Frequently.

Had to chuckle, as when I said I would not consider unless they threw in the Leaper, they bulked and said they could lower the cost to $1,000 USD. Yeah, right. I'll shop till I find a dealer that will give it to me for free. We're talking about $118k USD here. Wonder what it prices out in Europe? Might be worth importing one?

Will be taking her (03) out for an 800 mile trip to FL as soon as I get the rear sensor situation taken care of. May tackle that tomorrow. Been two years since they were replaced along with speakers by the dealer. DIY this time!

Then I reset and drove for perhaps another 30 or so local miles on errands for the local number.

It helps to be retired and have too much idle time on my hands.

 

Please.....Wear safety glasses... it says it on every battery. They only explode after they have been charging building up hydrogen gas and then disconnected making a spark but just do it. Don't ask how I know.

 

The S-Type vent tube is useful

 

But the factory tube has a greater ODI than does the vent hole on the battery :-(

 

However, I am not all that versed in the acronyms and do not understand what you meant by your

"If all is well (you can't tell yet), it's relearning. It can't get the fuel accurate till it does and it'll get better (again, if all is well) as time goes on. This aspect I am very versed on as a few years ago the fuel float went bad and I allowed it to run out of gas. Fortunately it was still under warranty as well as a recall notice on the float, as by the time they replaced everything that had to be replaced, it billed out at over $12,000. If I can find that Invoice I will scan and send along if you are interested. Turns out the factory guy was in from the UK the day I took it in for repairs and he came to me in the waiting area and said straight out - you ran out of petro, didn't you? Seems that running out resets a host of things that make the engine believe it is running on air.

I would actually monitor via OBD because it's cheap and easy plus I hate to assume stuff is OK. I'd check when P1000 goes to P1111 and also watch fuel trims (LTFTs)." comment.

What is OBD and what are the P1000 and P1111's?

LTFTs?