Hello everyone, this is my first post. I recently bought a 2005 Jaguar s type 4.2 with 137000 miles. When I bought it it had a check engine light code p0171. I took the car to an inspection, told me told me the problem was a breather line, and they fixed it and sent me off. 2 days later after driving it home I go to start it and it says restricted performance, I drive it to lunch, it drives fine. I get back in it to leave and it doesn’t turn over, I take the key out and start again and then the abs fault light turns on and car doesn’t turn over again. The 3rd time the car started and abs fault went away. New codes read, p0171, and p0327/p0332. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing these? I’ve heard vacuum leaks for p0171 and something battery/alternator related for the other codes. I also don’t know if this helps but when I got the car back the serpentine belt was making a really loud squeaking sound. ANY AND ALL HELP IS APPRECIATED.

 

Hello everyone, this is my second post (accidentally posted in the wrong spot) . I recently bought a 2005 Jaguar s type 4.2 with 137000 miles. When I bought it it had a check engine light code p0171. I took the car to an inspection, told me told me the problem was a breather line, and they fixed it and sent me off. 2 days later after driving it home I go to start it and it says restricted performance, I drive it to lunch, it drives fine. I get back in it to leave and it doesn’t turn over, I take the key out and start again and then the abs fault light turns on and car doesn’t turn over again. The 3rd time the car started and abs fault went away. New codes read, p0171, and p0327/p0332. Does anyone have any idea what could be causing these? I’ve heard vacuum leaks for p0171 and something battery/alternator related for the other codes. I also don’t know if this helps but when I got the car back the serpentine belt was making a really loud squeaking sound. ANY AND ALL HELP IS APPRECIATED

 

What is the available voltage, when checked with a voltmeter across the battery terminals with the ignition in the OFF position for at least thirty minutes?

Low available voltage is the cause of many random DTCs and instrument cluster faults.

 

Hi Collin,

P0171: Clean or replace MAF (Mass Airflow sensor)

p0327/p0332: Solution might be to replace the knock sensors.

"the serpentine belt was making a really loud squeaking sound": It's probably not the belt, but one or more of the pulleys with damaged bearings - i.e. the bearings are squeaking, because they are damaged and about to disintegrate.
Most likely the idler pulley and the "idler pulley", which is an integral part of the tensioner. You might be able to replace the pulleys with generic pulley for a general parts shop. Also, they will try to make you believe that you need to replace the complete tensioner, if the bearing is damaged. That's not the case. You can replace the pulley of the tensioner as well with a generic pulley (which fits), but note that the bolt, which holds the pulley of the tensioner is most likely a bolt, which needs to be turned clockwise to remove it. If you do not know it, you will break things.

 

Since your new let's start with the basics. How old is the battery? What is the resting voltage of the car AFTER it has sat all night? Jaguar wants to see at LEAST 12.6 VDC after it has sat all night. You can do some searches but the strange things that have been fixed by a new battery are surprising and wide spread.

There was a TSB about the squeaking belt and I had all that done under warranty on my 2005 STR. I only had the noise on cold starts. It's an old TSB so your car may have had this done. Don't know if those part numbers in the TSB are good either. But it does apply to both the SC and NA cars. See the attached document.

The P0327/P0332 are pointing at the knock sensors. Have you changed them? There are 2 on your car. Not a common failure but has occasionally been reported.

Now here is a thread from our fellow Jaguar fans in the UK which is close to what you have posted. It indicates that both knock sensors share some common wiring. This is important because you never see BOTH knock sensors go bad at the same time. This is on a different Jaguar but has the same 4.2L V-8 engine. Very important they also list what the knock sensors should read using your DMM. I would check both of yours. The worst thing is these are located under the intake manifold so a bit of work to get to if you want to change them.
Restricted Performance with P0327 and P0332

One thing to ignore in the above thread is the mention of the grounding studs/points. That is a problem with Aluminum body cars and yours is steel.

Oh I forgot to mention that is one VERY clean looking S-Type! Nice!
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P0171 is almost never MAF but cleaning it WITH CARE can't hurt.

 

Check engine light turned off today, was going to get the battery checked as you had said and the engine light turned off after being in the garage all night and drying off the battery. I will let you guys know if it comes back on.

 

DIY test of standing battery voltage is a simple, quick, and 'no brainer' first step. Hundreds of similar but spurious faults and DTCs can arise if battery voltage falls below 12.6 or 12.7V . . . even if the car starts. We have seen 10yo batteries still holding strong, usually by being maintained by a smart charger. However, we have also seen brand new batteries delivered with insufficient charge that have immediately exhibited weird faults.

So age or new replacement is irrelevant to a large degree. We must measure and act on that standing voltage.

The S-Type in particular, can throw a hierarchy of spurious fault messages caused by low battery charge . . . "Electronic Park Brake Cannot Engage" then "Cruise Control Unavailable" are common but be prepared also for Transmission faults and even Restricted Performance.

Colin, your experience suggests that CEL and faults cleared once the car had restored sufficient battery charge, However, for mine, I would still have the battery checked for both Vmax and CCA. Even a Lazarus battery will fail at some stage.

Cheers and best wishes,

 

Thank you for the advice. This is my first car I’ve ever bought (I’m 16) and I’m still learning about these kind of things. I am unaware if the sensors have ever been changed. The light turned back off after leaving it in the garage over night (it had been sitting out in the rain like the guy in the thread you mentioned had said), anyway I’m going to try to go to the store tommorow and buy a multimeter to check the battery charge. I’m hoping this car can teach me some stuff without leaving me stranded, after all it was a fairly cheap car.

 

Well good luck and we all started out the same as you! Man if I could go back in time with what I know now I would be a genius at fixing cars!
But unfortunately it does not work that way! We all had to make mistakes and learn.

Keep the pictures coming!
That is one nice car for a 16 year old! My first car was $99! Yes not much of a car for sure.

Do they teach auto shop anymore in High School? Just a thought.
Anyone like your Dad or a brother or maybe a neighbor who can help you out?

Now I do have to tell you a standard "Jaguar" joke.
Be sure and own at least 2 Jaguars so you always have something to drive when the other one is in the shop!
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What are these “mistakes” of which you speak? I’m not familiar with the concept.

 

Karl, it sounds like owning only one Jaguar could be a biggie. LOL.

Colin, HUGE congrats to your choice of car. She is a beauty!
Best pathway to mastery of these cars?
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• lots of reading here . . . manuals, Stickies, FAQs and use search tools,
• post new thread to ask a question . . . no such thing as a dumb question,
• finally, develop your toolbox and DIY skills . . . learn to do each task yourself.

Adopting these measures, you will not only save lots of expense, you will be far more competent in maintaining your Jaguar in excellent condition.

Cheers and best wishes,

 

I was driving the car earlier to make sure it was good for inspection (no check engine light back on, inspection is tommorow) it’s not on thankfully, I also checked the battery with a multimeter after it had sat for 30 minutes (I know you said all night, I’ll check again tommorow morning, I live in the USA so it’s 8 pm for me) voltage was 12.5 , you said atleast 12.6 but is it that big of a deal with .1v off?

 

Maybe not, Colin . . . but any "messages of doom" will soon tell you . . .

Cheers and best wishes mate.

 

12.5v

 

but any "messages of doom" will soon tell you . . .

[/QUOTE]
Woah pal slow your roll your gonna jinx me 😖

 

Here's a worthwhile hint Colin . . .
If the battery charge is at a level that starts the engine, but "hissy fits" the electronics . . .
You may see those warning messages etc, then . . .

• let the car run a bit to get that battery charge up to snuff (undefined technical measure);
• switch off and let it stand for a few tick-tocks (another term we experts use)
• start up again and revel in all warnings having disappeared (coz the battery now has sufficient charge).

You can then get your MOT (or whatever) inspection passed.
If you find this repeating (especially after first start in the morning) get it CCA tested (and start saving for replacement).

Last thing I want is to jinx you. Just be prepared mate, and let us know how you fare.
Cheers and best wishes,

 

12.5V is OK.

If it needs a smog-type test then the OBD status will really matter. We use (pending) P1000/P1111 as a short-cut to all being happy (P1111) or not, but any test will actually check the individual monitors.

(Not in the UK where I am.)

 

Standing voltage overnight was 12.37

 

First thank you for answering the question. We get so many threads where we play 20 questions trying to get more information from the poster. We are all just guessing on the internet! Any and all information about your problems are a big help.

As posted above keep reading because this forum has a world of experience in it. We have dozens if not hundreds of threads with all kinds of problems posted from small to huge. Yet so many are solved with a new properly charged battery! It is a odd thing for sure.
With what you posted (No age of the battery?) I would be buying a new battery. Did the car sit for a while before you got it? That is also a battery killer.

Just to let you know many people keep their cars on a battery tender because of this. The CTEK brand is the most recommended brand and it's what JLR uses in their show rooms. Yes brand new cars and trucks are connected to a battery tender on the show room floor. I was surprised when I first saw this. BUT there is a reason for it!

Get the manuals for your car. They are kind of spread all over so a little work is required. Repair CD's are another suggestion as they are cheap and easy to get off EBay. Glad to hear you got that meter you will use it plenty! You will also need at least one scanner of some kind to get the trouble codes from your car.

And as always remember "Carl for the win!".
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