Background information.

2001 S-Type 3.0

I had to remove the intake manifold in order to replace the Cam Position Sensor far Bank A (passenger side). I replaced the connector also. While I was there, I removed the valve cover and replaced the VVT Solenoid and connector also. Did rest of work, replacing spark plugs, coils and gaskets. Re-attached the intake. Fully charged battery. When I had my wife try to turn it over, we get a clicking noise coming from the intake (you can feel it vibrate) but then the dash lights go out and the starter does not engage. I believe that I have plugged everything back in correctly. I used the shop manual for disassembly and re-assembly. #Confused /frustrated

 

Sounds like a lack of power. Battery failing, poor connection, etc.

 

Odd about the clicking noise. Is it a single click, or repetitive? Nothing comes to mind that would cause such a noise on the intake. Can you further isolate the source?

For the no-crank, try putting your finger on relay #15 in the front power distribution box, and have a helper turn the key to start. Even if the starter doesn't engage, can you feel this relay click? That would tell us the security system is happy and is sending the normal control signal to this relay to engage the starter. One caveat with the click test: Adjacent relays may actuate at the same time. Make sure you feel a distinct click from relay #15, and are not picking up vibration from another relay.

 

I finally got the car to crank. I had my wife keep bumping it and noticed the alternator was making a small motion. I pulled on the belt a little, my wife bumped the ignition again and it turned over. Belched a fair amount of smoke out of the rear and then cleared up. idled pretty smooth for a few moments and then started running rough again and shut off. Showed the same symptoms that caused me to replace the cam position sensors in the first place. All this work and still running like crap. At least it finally cranked!

 

You may need to shift your troubleshooting approach a little bit. It sounds like you've got two faults active at the same time.

1) The starter system should be able to consistently get the crankshaft spinning, even if the engine won't run. For giggles, you could totally disable the fuel and ignition systems so the engine had no hope of actually running, but it shouldn't affect the starter system. Because the starter system isn't responding properly, something is still wrong there.

2) Once the starter system gets the crankshaft spinning at a good clip, the fuel and ignition systems (along with compression) should take over and let the engine run. But since the engine is still running poorly (after the starter system somehow behaved for once), something else is wrong there, too.

Is there one factor causing both problems? Possibly, but not too likely. One thought that does come to mind is low battery voltage, perhaps caused by a dead/marginal charging system. That's why I suggested a click test of the starter relay, to see if the control system is happy and sending the start command when you turn the key. If the click test is good, the next step is to read battery voltage while you hold the key to Start. Even if no apparent response from the starter, record the battery voltage during the start attempt.

Other than low battery voltage during and after start, I can't think of a common factor for both problems. That means you'll have two faults to diagnose. Concentrate first on the starter system, because that's a prerequisite for any engine.

When the starter did get the crankshaft spinning most recently, was it good and strong or was it struggling? Does the starter system now work consistently, or was that a one-time occurrence?

 

It may have had something to do with sitting since December. It had not been cranked since then. Turned over every time after. Still was running rough due to EGR tube leak possibly. I am having it rectified now and hoping to run smoothly after that. I will pull any generated codes then.

 

IF the battery was fully charged, you could have one possible cause that may be related to running problems. Hydro-locking. This can occasionally be caused by excess fuel flooding the combustion chamber, but more commonly caused by head gasket leaks allowing coolant into it. However, doing a compression test on all six pots is not easy when the right bank is covered by an inlet manifold. Great design, Jaguar!

Having said that, since the head gaskets are not a weak spot on these cars (so far as I know), check the health of your battery first, then fault codes.