That makes a lot of sense!
I will contact these people and see what they have.
I have a thought that the late model Lincolns all had dual row timing chains, not sure .
The dual row chain is an issue with some Motor Cycle engines, the single row chains can produce a resonance which lead to excessive slapping. Ducati tried single row chains when the "bevel drive " became too expensive to produce that is why they have gone to belts.
Always look for the cause, not the result!

 

The cause is plastic that breaks up with age. The chains are not the cause.

 

In all the pics and plastic tensioners I have seen on this site and others the tensioners begin to fail down the barrel when the piston fits with the shoe, at 90 degrees to the direction of the chain travel.
The plastic also seems to begin to fail where there is a raised section of the plastic barrel.
(This raised section also causes a weakness in plastic molding integrity) What causes this? I think as that single row chain "flaps" which causes the tensioner shoe to move back and forward in the barrel trying to stop the "flap"which overtime will cause the barrel to split exactly where it does. Now you can put a solid block of steel/ aluminum whatever but the resonance will still be there., so are you going to put another rubbing shoe on the tensioner? ( probably) But the single row chain is still going to "flap".
Maybe a much larger contact surface on the chain tensioner?
The real fix is an idler chain wheel which can be held in tension by spring pressure and oil pressure as it is in conventional chain drive twin cam systems.
Just my six penneth!

 

I can assure you that the octane rating and/or ethanol content of the fuel played no part in your issue.

I can find no reference to a 'correction tube' in any Jag service bulletin, nor have I ever heard of one. Got a link?

 

Maybe not the octane rating or ethanol content, but perhaps some other element of fuel quality is at play. Read my experience with fuel quality here, specifically the update in post #9. I wouldn't believe it if I hadn't experienced it first hand:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...5/#post1688169

 

All gasoline in a given geographic area is a single product which comes from one refinery (or maybe two refineries in large metropolitan areas) irrespective of brand name.

The only potential difference is with the additives that are injected in the tanker truck while filling for delivery. It can be argued ad-nauseam that brand A is better than brand B, but even if true it takes thousands of miles for any such differences to appear.

AAA did an extensive study on this, it's worth reading through.

 

Sorry for confusion Jaguar call it something else , but my description makes sense to an old bloke.
Here are the links.
https://redirect.viglink.com/?format...eliefValve.htm

 

Your link is to do with raising and lowering the convertible top on an XK8 (?)

Gus is a very well known and respected member here.

 

Sorry about that , I will find the link .
It says the tube is a low speed air bleed of some sort which if the car is only used for short trips has a history of clogging up , It state that you get a 1/32 " dill in a pin Chuck ( stresses it must be in a pin Chuck and you gently twist the drill through through the pastic housing which I gather is in the Cam Cover { as they stress if you dont use a pin chuck the drill will drop straight through to the cams and may even drop right down through the engine to the sump}.
Maybe this gives you enough information to identify what they are talking about.
I will find the link if I can.

 

Sounds like it's a part load breather. Not sure if it's applicable to an S-type.

 

Maybe trying to describe a VVT issue. small passages that get blocked

 

This sounds like what I am trying to describe. It activates when the throttle is just " Cracked" , it will cause a what feels like a cylinder not firing.
I have spent some time looking for the service bulletin, without result.
The service bulletin describes exactly what is happening.
I have ordered my Elm 327 , but have never used one before. That could be an issue. I really like having a carburetor and distributor, I am told I need to catch up.

 

On another note I had an Email from the previous owner of the car, he said that the trip I did home was the longest trip the car has done in the 14 years he has owned it. The car had only been used to do a 60K run down to his holiday home other than that just around Adelaide. So maybe the Catalytic Converter , may have just needed a good blow out it certainly didnt smell too good, if that was what the smell was.
If the converter is now cleaned out and there is no smell how do I tell if it is US? Or will a sensor just keep giving me a message?
Any suggestions?

 

I am not sure what you have going on and at this point I would not guess but for your information this is a link to the Part Load Breather Blockage.

Link http://www.jagrepair.com/images/TSB/...20Breather.pdf

I would like to see the OBDII codes to see what exactly is going on with the car. Please take the time to read the codes and then post the codes and not what they tell you what they mean and we will try to help.

 

Hey thats the link I have been looking for. You are the man! I am very pleased you were able to decipher what I was looking at with my description, ( Low speed air correction valve) made sense to me. Yeh!
Thanks.

 

The elm is very easy to use. So don't worry. If you bought one that can be used with a laptop I would use this program as it is very easy to use.
https://mm.1und1.de/dereferrer?target=aHR0cDovL3d3dy5vdXRpbHNvYmRmYWNp bGUuY29tL3NvZnR3YXJlLWVvYmQtZmFjaWxlLWVsbTMyNy5waH A%3D.
This a link to a free trial version.

To get the most out of this device you can go to YouTube and look for free videos from somebody like scannerdanner he will show how to use it diagnose things like air leaks etc