Can this be done without the 'special tool' shown in the JTIS?

 

Yes. Unless the "R" is markedly different from the 3.0L...and I know it is in the brake area, per se...but I changed rear rotors and pads sans the special tool. hmm...January of last year and I can't really remember....but I think if you leave the key in the ignition, the brake won't set...then, with wheel off, if you hold your tongue just right you can get park-brake cable off the little tang at the rotor using needle-nose or maybe regular pliers. You have to use something to press the lever in the direction of brake application whilst pulling all the slack in the cable...but if you are lucky, there is just enough room. Or maybe I disconnected it near the middle of the rear axle where the two rear wheel cables come together. That part is really fuzzy, but I recall the first step is leaving the key in the ignition so the brake doesn't set. Look at the setup also check both sides and start on the one with the most slack, once you get one off, the other becomes quite easy.
Sorry to be so vague, but it's been awhile.

 

With the R you need to get in the car turn the ignition to your accessories then while holding the EBP lever down like you were disengaging it turn your keys off and remove them before lifting your hand off the lever. Should have them disengaged. You should not have to take any cables off and I'm not really sure what that would even do. Once you are done with your brake job you have to reset the system. I'm about to leave so I'll post that procedure in about 2-3 hours and I'm double check it cause its the last thing I actually need to film for my rear brake video.

 

Vance got it right.

When you restart the car, the car will have a parking brake warning. just pull up the lever on the parking brake until it sets. The warning will go away and you will be fine.

Vance, if you want to replicate the condition, for filming purposes you can disconnect the battery for 30+ mins. When you reconnect and restart, the car will show the EBP warning. You will also have to reset auto up / down windows, and sunroof.

George

 

When I reset mine I had to pull up several times it wont reset after one try on the R. Since its a seperate caliper it will take alot of pushes and pulls of the EPB lever before it resets. I also had luck from pulling up and as I could hear it engaging I quickly turned off the key and pulled it from the ignition. Do these things a few times and you should have no problem resetting it.

Thanks for the tip to replicate I will be trying to shoot that once I get some time to tinker in the garage. Then I can get the vids up.

 

A thousand apologies for the bad gouge. Maybe I got the brake job mixed up with the park-brake cable failure. Both are distant memories at this point. Sure seem to remember the park brake cables presented a problem when removing and replacing the rotors, though.

But it begs the question: Since they built the release into the software, why develop a special tool?

 

No problem I'm not sure how the procedure for the regular S type is but with the R the way I described is a whole lot easier then removing cables. If you do your rears again try it in the regular S type and see if it works there too.

I cant remember but I believe the special tool is so they will reset themselves without having to go through the removing the battery cable reset method. I think it gets calibrated with the tool then you just unplug and your good. I could be wrong though. I know it says to use the tool in JTIS but I wasnt gonna try and source that thing and who knows what that would of cost.

 

The Non-R S-Types don't have a separate parking brake pad, and or caliper. They just use the rear brakes as the parking brake. I dont think this was adaptable to the Brembo system or rotor which is why they have the separate rear pads / calipers.

Same EPB procedure though... I think it's basically resetting the EPB's location of where the caliper makes contact with the rotor. No need for the Jaguar tool here.

In theory, you shouldn't have to do it multiple times on either car, BUT you have to wait for it to calibrate. Pull the lever up and hold it up till it sets.

Take care,

George

 

If the EPB has applied, I think you'll find you need to turn the key to ignition II (not accessories) and probably need foot on the brake, then pressing the EPB paddle will unapply the EPB. If you keep the paddle down you can then turn off the ignition and remove the key. It will stay unapplied.

If you keep the door open and/or put windows down you'll hear its motor quite clearly unless you have the freakin sound system turned high LOL.

 

You are right I forgot about there being ignition I and ignition II. I had forgot to mention about the brake having to be applied. Thanks for the fix.

 

I figured this might be my chance to contribute to the knowledge base, however Vance580 has much better working/film conditions than a 15F garage in January.......I'll leave it to him, better yet in FL, he might add some bikini models to the project....
Pete

 

Which way do these pins push out, inboard or outboard - it looks like I need to knock them outboard, but it is hard to get a good hammer strike with a punch on them to get them moving.
Have the mains off very nice system for removing pads
As soon as I get the parking brake C's off it will be a quick clean up and put back together.
Pete

 

I believe the parking brake is the opposite of the Brembo. So I believe they would come out going away from the suspension. Also make sure you remember which pins went where cause they will go into each other but wont set flush. It will be tight but for the E brake I used an awl since it had a bigger surface to tap with the hammer.

 

I took the calipers off, as I was unable to knock the pins out with an awl, in place on the car.

I even have them inside now, trying to knock them out with the caliper body against a concrete floor, and they are not budging.....

I may take them in to my work to press them out, or separate the caliper halves with the large torx bolt

Pete

 

Soak them in penetrating fluid and wait a few hours. If you really have to, use the ultimate penetrating fluid. Regular red coca-cola. That's one of my dad's old tricks. Stuff works wonders but leaves a syrupy mess behind, so you have to rinse everything off afterwards.

George

 

Another good trick depending on the situation is heat and a wax candle, heat the bolt or whatever it is you need to loosen and apply the wax candle, it does not evaporate but get sucked in to the threads or tight areas just like sweating a copper pipe. This has saved my @ss many times.

 

How hot do you need to get the bolt? What heat source is good? (Sounds like a good tip.)

 

Does anybody know a cross or part to for the packing brake caliper pins?
I think I have going to have to cut them - got one out, but rest are very solid, and I don't want to score and oversize the hole in the caliper by forcing them out.

Pete

 

Pete,

Download my EPC and you can look up whatever part # you need.

I don't have it on my work machine, but I'd be glad to look for you when I get home this evening.

Take care,

George

 

George
I dropped the calipers off at my mechanic to press them out.
I had them against a good big vice here at work, a good drift & hammer, and was only able to get one pin out.
Asked the dealer, the pins come with OEM dealer pad set - for $150.00pr.
PEte