In a word no. That's not how my car works. But I still think we're talkin about two different things. On my car I could not remove the thermostat if I removed the bolts you show.
Mine involves an elbow.

 

Ill look in the service manual. I heard the t stat housing changed from plastic to metal. is yours plastic?

 

No THANK GOD, no Jaguar plastic!. It's a clam shell design with the thermostat having a rubber seal around the perimeter.

 

Now my thermostat is inside that big aluminum piece but I wasn't removing the tstat until after I got the whole piece off. aren't you removing the blower? if so take that housing off then remove the tstat

 

S/C has aluminum TSTAT housing, no plastic. If you pull off the S/C. Pull them intercoolers and clean them out with solvent and add a catch can that you can drain. You'll get a pint of oil in between oil changes caught there that doesn't go into the intake. Helps keep the CAT's from clogging too.

HEY, if you pull the S/C change the hose under it. Best $15 you'll spend this year.

 

Looks like I didn't need to do this now. But it does highlight what an utter PITA it would be to change the thermostat with those idiotic torx bolts in that spot. Change them to regular hex head bolts and if you do ever need to change the thermostat it will be much easier.

 

Could you elaborate?

1. Where is all of this oil coming from in between oil changes? Are you saying the supercharging system is sucking that much oil from the crankcase?

2. Your last sentence means what?

 

Its the nature of the beast. The pcv picks up crankcase pressure with caporize oil mist in it. And it gets sucked the throttle body. Makes a mess

 

Some cars have a oil separator which drains back into the crankcase. I have a twin turbo Maserati with twin intercoolers and the only oil comes from the turbo's bearing seal leaking slightly but no pint between oil changes. That burns no oil at all. I do flush those out regularly with paint thinner but then they're much easier to service than the ones on the Jag.This seems excessive and come to think of it the car does use a lot of oil, always has.

 

Yes but most just have a baffle in the valve cover. Not very efficient. My hellcat has one built in but a pot offolks still run a separate can. I have a few laying around here

 

I started using a catch can on my race bike. So, when I took off the throttle body, EGR and S/C it had a lot of build up. The intercoolers we're almost wet with oil. Intake valves on head were thick with build up also. After cleaning the whole set up, I realized the cause and threw on a stop oil going back into system.
Another problem was at idle and acceleration from a light, there was a surge of throttle, caused by the ridge of build up on the throttle flap. Not very Jaguar like as far as smooooth driver.

I use a product called Evinrude engine tuner which eats carbon faster then anything I've seen. The can type foams when you spray and runs through to burn off. Soften the buildup with engine tuner and then flush with thinner or brake clean.

Oil in air lowers octane which reduces HP in a gas engine, the same where oil in air on a diesel adds HP.

Carbon is an abrasive, it wears internal moving parts. This is why diesel motors face a special wear problem when they have dirty engine oil, that is black with carbon.

I don't think the Jags "use" oil as much as they "lose" oil being vented back through engine to eat it. Catalytic converter will last longer too.

 

What benefit does cutting a slot in the back of the supercharger? Without the elbow on, its real easy to get to that bolt. Are people putting the elbow on the supercharger before installing the supercharger:elbow as a combo?

 

You only have to loosen bolt, not remove it. it is very difficult lining up and putting that bolt in. if you cut a slot, it just slides in only to be tightened. Most people fully assemble SC before putting back on.

 

Ill look at mine but it seemed pretty easy to get to with the elbow from the throttle body off? And with the elbow attached it covers that bolt head so how do you get to it if the elbow is on?

 

I have had my SC off several times and never really a problem with that rear bolt. Easy enough to line up.

 

Maybe the S-type has more clearance. The XJ seems to be really tight with the SC assembled. They may have different TBs? OR I lost my secret ninja moves with age. As long as it gets back on is the goal.

 

It is the other way around the XJ has more clearance.

One trick I often use to make sure a "hidden" bolt hole is lined up is to use a narrow sharp object like a nail to feel the edges of the female thread below the hole. If the hole is off center then you can feel it with the "nail" and adjust accordingly.
Indeed if there is enough clearance a screw driver can be used to "juggle" the two components into place.

 

Well im at the supercharger reinstallation point and sure enough theres TONS. Of room! Check it out

 

I've recently had the supercharger off so will add a few points that might help others in the future. I think there are a few ways to do this job/get round some hurdles and you need to be creative and prepared to deviate from what has worked for someone else.

This really is a pain of a job and I would not recommend it unless you have a good range of tools and plenty of patience. The key points I'd emphasise are as follows:

• Dismantling everything at the front end of the car is straightforward.
• Take lots of photos of the layout of vacuum pipes and coolant and electrical connectors before you take anything apart and as you progress. You will NOT remember everything.
• I didn't need to access anything from underneath the car.
• Do remove the pollen filter and its housing to improve access.
• I didn't touch the intercoolers.
• Replace all gaskets. They are not that expensive from a main dealer and this is a job you don't want to do twice for trying to save a small amount of money.
• The real problems start when you have to get at the bolts at the rear of the engine, namely throttle body elbow, the rear supercharger bolt and particularly the EGR.
• You will need a good range of sockets, extension pieces and ujs, in a mix of sizes from 1/2" downwards. This is because access at the rear is very tight and you need to come up with some obscure and creative combinations of sockets and extensions to reach some bolts. This is time consuming and frustrating.
• Have a flexible magnetic pick up to hand. You WILL drop something down there.
• Get some old cushions and a couple of blankets. Some of the best access is only found by being on top of the engine and you need soft support!
• IF THERE'S ONE THING THAT WOULD HAVE HELPED THAT I DIDN'T HAVE IT WOULD BE A FLEXIBLE EXTENSION SET LIKE THIS:

• I didn't completely remove the throttle body. My route to accessing the supercharger rear bolt was to remove the throttle body elbow bolts and then remove the two bolts that secure the EGR to the exhaust (that's at the exhaust end). These last two bolts are quite easily visible and accessible. Once you've done that, you have enough wriggle room to just get to the rear supercharger bolt from above. You can then remove the supercharger leaving the elbow more or less in situ.
• Reassembly was far more difficult than disassembly mainly due to the difficulty of accessing some bolts and getting them torqued correctly. The potential for air leaks and resultant problems meant that I was determined to torque everything to factory specs but the access you encounter when undoing everything is much worse when you need to get a torque wrench on the end of your combination of extension bars.
• Using my method there is no need to or advantage in slotting the supercharger housing at the rear.
• Before starting the car, double check all your connections, especially coolant hoses. It's easy to miss one or forget to replace a clip.
• I've posted on another thread but if you have any broken connectors around the throttle body, TPS, etc, then you can get replacements off a UK Ford Focus of similar age. Don't try and dismantle the pins if you do this. Just cut the replacements off with long tails and then solder on to your old wires on your car.
• I had the car slightly raised at the front and following the Jaguar instructions I had no problems at all with refilling with coolant and avoiding air locks.

Very satisfying to get it all back together and all codes gone but not a job I want to do again.

 

as i stated in your thread - Removing Throttle Body on 2006 STR
yes there are two ways to access and remove / re-fit the rear supercharger bolt.
i always remove the supercharger rear manifold to expose it too.