Hey guys,
A lot has been fixed since I registered to the forum so thanks for your help
- centralized locking works after changing passenger side lock mechanism
- AC is back after changing the DCCV and replenishing the circuit (with R12a fluid and also a component that's supposed to cover any holes smaller than 3mm)
- Speed limiter is back after changing the button (I changed the clock spring for nothing, anyone wants a perfectly functioning one for shipping costs ?)

However, I took the car for a long trip and left her outside during 2 hot days, since then :
- First a message displayed : "gearbox anomaly", and limited the ability to shift I think (I didn't mess at all with gearbox commands, just tried to get home). I had to restart the car a couple times and drive very carefully so the gearbox was able to shift and didn't go into "protection". It got me home BUT :
- Now, when I start the car, I don't have the "gearbox anomaly" (yet - pretty sure it will come back if I put too much pressure on the pedal), but I get an orange Engine icon.

So I thought I was missing some oil (complete transmission fluid was done 20 000km ago, and every consumable changed), and went to top it off. Not what I expected !!!
- I lifted the car on 4 candles, it seemed level. I left it running until it was warm, but because I didn't lift the car high enough, I didn't feel comfortable letting it running during the refilling (it's hot under there!!)
- Annnd... I had almost nothing the replenish, the oil level check plug started dripping after adding 300ml. Closed it and added another 500ml

Annnnnd I still got that orange engine light ! Do you think it's because I didn't do the operation with the car running ? Since then, I bought a code reader, here's what he has to say :
- P0795
- P0745
So, translating to the best of my abilities : I got issues with transmission fluid pressure in two solenoids.
Additional codes from other ECU :
- P0734, P0735 : incorrect speed ratio for 4th and 5th
- P1588 : monitor the throttle spring

I found some sources on the internet that said it was a fragile part, but still replaceable without removing the gearbox entirely. Since the problem appeared while the car was basically parked, I find hard to believe that something actually broke ??? Maybe I did break something because I drove on low fluid ? Anyway, couldn't find more info on the OBD codes (this link is broken : gus link)

What do you guys think I should do ? First, start by replenishing the transmission fluid while engine running ?

Thanks a lot

 

Lots of codes etc info JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Thanks for your answer So, maybe two things I missed :
1 - Maybe unplugging the battery to reset the error codes ?
2 - Trying to follow this procedure : COMPREHENSIVE COMPONENT MONITOR TRANSMISSION DRIVE CYCLE
--> I didn't get where those test results will be displayed ?

 

Battery off not likely to help.

You have to use OBD to read the individual monitors.

Pending code P1000 is short for at least one monitor not set, P1111 is for all are set (which is good).

I'd guess your trans needs fixing but you want someone who's not guessing.

 

I don’t get what you mean by that. Also I didn’t get any code starting with P1 - my understanding is that those are jaguar specific. I am using a free IBD app so not sure I can get those ?

 

A little confused as your car does not use R12? It uses R134a.
Did you put stop leak in the AC system? As I don't understand why you are plugging holes smaller than 3mm? What holes?

You filled the transmission wrong too? You DO NOT add anymore fluid after you get it dripping out the plug? That's the full level. Did you measure the fluid temperature when you were checking the fluid level? Again this is critical and there is a specific temperature range the fluid MUST be at when checking the level.
Please take it to a shop that understands these transmissions! It is CRITICAL that the fluid level be correct. It can't be close.

You did not mention how many miles are on the car? You might have case bore wear and yes I think you need to get the transmission rebuilt. Now the good thing is you have a very common Ford 5 speed transmission which was installed in millions of Fords over the years. So all the problems and modifications have been figured out. You don't need to use a Jaguar specialist for this and again I would recommend NOT using Jaguar if possible.

As JagV8 posted I think you need a better scanner as yours does not seem to work very well?
You need to understand the troubleshooting process? When you check codes always erase them afterwards. We are trying to let the car tell us what's wrong. So you don't want to be chasing old codes only new current codes.

See if you can get the fluid level factory correct first as there is a small chance that is causing some of your problems. It's impossible to troubleshoot the transmission until the fluid level is correct. So start there and report back what you find.
.
.
.

 

sorry if my english ain’t clear :

- The R12a (a?) fluid I used is supposed to replace the R134. I indeed used « stop leak » before refilling (which is supposed to heal seal rings and holes smaller than 3mm). It worked for a coup’e thousand kilometers so far

- I only wanted to check the trans fluid level, and add a bit of trans fluid if needed. So indeed, I didn’t check the temperature, rather followed the quick and dirty method that is shared in the how to section.
—> I’ll do it with the engine running as stated in the workshop manual and report back

- I only bought a cheap OBD bluetooth module and tried a couple apps. Indeed, I’m certain that I don’t understand the troubleshooting process exhaustively …
there is one specific for jags and land roverd, but it costs almost 300€

 

R12 is obsolete and can't be purchased anymore? Your car came with R134a and that's what you need to put back in it. You made a big mistake by putting stop leak in the AC system. That contaminated the AC system and I doubt any shop will touch the car now. They all check if the refrigerant is contaminated because that adds a lot to the job. NEVER add ANYTHING to an AC system but refrigerant and the proper PAG oil!

You have to understand that the AC system is leaking and you need to find the leak and properly repair it. Do you have a set of AC gauges? Can you do AC work? It's not hard but it does take some time to understand the pressures and what they are telling you.

That's my point you are not checking the transmission fluid level correctly?
Attached is a pretty good summary of how to do it. I would ignore his statements about which fluids to use. Those are not approved and use them at your own risk. Again there is no "quick and dirty" method. Those are WRONG methods? You need to understand that. All these so called short cuts your doing are causing further problems and most likely will lead to you having to junk the car.

Make sure your using the correct transmission fluid. The ONLY approved ones are Mercon SP and Lifeguard6. Use others at your own risk. Now we have been told the Mercon product is hard to get outside the US so maybe Lifeguard6 is the only one you can get?
You did not post where you at so not sure what fluids you have access to?
.
.
.

 

Danger Will Robinson! Danger!

You gave him the procedure for the 6-speed ZF transmission. He's got the 5-speed 5R55N.

As previously mentioned, this is a VERY common Ford transmission, used in many variations on various Ford models. Any competent transmission shop can work on it. It most certainly doesn't have to be a Jaguar specialist.

I had the P0745 code several years ago. My experience here:

https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...-p0745-205599/


Drain and refill procedure here:

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource


One huge consideration is raising the vehicle level and high enough to work underneath. It can be done with four jackstands, but the logistics are a bit tricky as the rear jack pads don't leave much room for jackstands next to the floor jack. It's a piece of cake for any shop with a lift, but no much for us mere mortals working in the driveway.

 

Thank you Karl! I got the wrong set of instructions!
Thanks for the correction about which procedure to use.

However the fluid level procedure is the same because neither transmission has a dip stick and you must use the same method.
.
.
.