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So my motor sized up / blew ~ now what?

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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 12:58 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by tdc
WOW thanks team... I do really appreciate the advise.. Thank you all so much..

I was actually just looking a new / recondiontioned jag motor on ebay for $2200..


http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...7347+&viewitem

List of Vehicles & Years applicable:
*1999-2001 Jaguar S Type 4.0L

List of machining processes performed:

*Engine and heads cleaned

*Surfaces renewed by milling
*Blocks bored and honed
*Blocks Resurfaced/decked
*Connecting Rods reconditioned
*New pin bushings installed
*Crank shaft ground and polished
*Cylinder heads pressure tested
*Heads checked for thickness
*Heads rebuilt with three angle valve grind
List of new master rebuild kit parts installed:


*New pistons

*New piston rings
*New rod bearings
*New main bearings
*New wrist pin bushings
*New thrust bearings
*New rear main seal
*New frost plugs
*New Oil pump
IDK..2200 for a long block sounds like a deal.. I just would need to see / make sure all of my existing components still work… So basically yeah it’s research day for me..

Thanks again team..
If you can swing the extra $800 - $1k over what a used motor costs, I would definitely do that. How many miles are on your S and are you planning on keeping it?

I'd call these people and see how much they want for the motor installed. Apparently free towing, water pump etc, plus no shipping charge, or shipping the core back. That may work out in your favor, considering they are in California.

Take care,

George
 

Last edited by androulakis; Feb 21, 2011 at 01:01 PM.
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 03:15 PM
  #22  
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Why not spend a few hours or a few hundreds buck to see if your engine truly is trashed- or not. Terminal internal engine problems occurring at exactly the same time as a complete electrical failure makes no sense.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 03:22 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by tdc
I'm must be missing something here guys, I'm sorry.. are you telling me that the LS 3.9 is the same as the 4.0, for a (2000)? I can just replace the tins and move on with life??

If so (COOL) I’ll look into getting an LS motor. As funky as California is they don't care what motor is in the car as long as it passes smog requirements for that year of car.. so if the smog stuff is all interchangeable.. it’s almost to good to be true..
I would be careful here. It would be best to go with the same year as that which came out of the car.
I know it can't be from a later year than what was originally in it.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 04:53 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by Jayt2
I would be careful here. It would be best to go with the same year as that which came out of the car.
I know it can't be from a later year than what was originally in it.
Actually I think it's the opposite. You can swap in same or newer year, BUT you have to meet the emissions requirements of the motor's year (if newer), not the chassis.

You aren't allowed to swap in older motors as apparently the CA emissions standards keep getting tougher over the years.

CA also has 1976 and earlier cars exempt, but it ends there, no 25 year rolling exemption, as most other states have while things reach "classic" status.

Take care,

George
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 04:54 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by Mikey
Why not spend a few hours or a few hundreds buck to see if your engine truly is trashed- or not. Terminal internal engine problems occurring at exactly the same time as a complete electrical failure makes no sense.
I'm with you. It would be a nightmare to shell out that type of coin only to have the car not turn over and realize it wasn't the motor all along.
 
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Old Feb 21, 2011 | 05:51 PM
  #26  
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Take drive belt off and get a socket and breaker bar and put it on the crankshaft pulley. If motor turns over your golden if not she is locked up.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 04:55 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Mikey
Why not spend a few hours or a few hundreds buck to see if your engine truly is trashed- or not. Terminal internal engine problems occurring at exactly the same time as a complete electrical failure makes no sense.
Agreed. Have it checked out first. Don`t put the cart before the horse my man.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 09:31 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by androulakis
Actually I think it's the opposite. You can swap in same or newer year, BUT you have to meet the emissions requirements of the motor's year (if newer), not the chassis.

You aren't allowed to swap in older motors as apparently the CA emissions standards keep getting tougher over the years.

CA also has 1976 and earlier cars exempt, but it ends there, no 25 year rolling exemption, as most other states have while things reach "classic" status.

Take care,

George

You're right.. I got it bassackwards...
 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 09:57 AM
  #29  
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I don't know enough about auto gearboxes so I'll ask this and you can all explain LOL - could it still be in gear and that's why it (appears it) won't turn over?

I guess the answer is that the ATF pressure isn't there so it can't be in gear, but is that it?
 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 10:06 AM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by jagv8
I don't know enough about auto gearboxes so I'll ask this and you can all explain LOL - could it still be in gear and that's why it (appears it) won't turn over?

I guess the answer is that the ATF pressure isn't there so it can't be in gear, but is that it?
ATF pressure doesn't mean anything.

If the shifter cable or bushing broke the trans COULD be in gear. But simply turning the car on and moving the shifter to neutral will tell you that. If it rolls freely in neutral, then it's not in gear.

Take care,

George
 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 11:36 AM
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Thanks. Wondering what tdc tried.
 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 01:06 PM
  #32  
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Wouldn't explain the apparent total electrical failure.
nor actually his wrench-crank test. Autobox in gear should roll relatively freely.
Hand cranking you'd onlyhave to turn the tq-converter vanes....not move the car. I think?
 
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Old Feb 22, 2011 | 01:43 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by aholbro1
Wouldn't explain the apparent total electrical failure.
nor actually his wrench-crank test. Autobox in gear should roll relatively freely.
Hand cranking you'd onlyhave to turn the tq-converter vanes....not move the car. I think?
Correct, the torque converter shouldn't be locked up without the engine running.

The electrical / engine flameout seems so strange to me.

If it were mechanical and the motor siezed up, then that wouldn't explain the car losing lights, dash power etc...

I agree there needs to be much more diagnosis on this car.

Take car,e

George
 
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