Hi, I do know that my 00 S-type came with 5x7/6x8 speakers. But does anyone know what the specs on these speakers are? I wanted to upgrade my speakers and I saw some decent, not top end, pioneerspeakers on sale at a local electronics store. But I wanted to make sure that these new speakers are better than the stock ones.

These are the one's I was looking at http://www.futureshop.ca/catalog/pro...&langid=EN

 

crutchfield.com on this website it will give you the exact dimensions of all your speakers.

 

and specs....

 

I checked that site, but all I got was that I have 6x8 speakers, which I already know. I'm looking for the wattage and frequency response, etc..

 

Those kind of specs for factory eqipment is really not readily available. Pretty much any mid-line speaker will sound the same if not better than the stock speakers, especially if your '00 has the base stereo setup. I believe if you have package-tray subwoofers in the back with a small amp attatched under the sub enclosure you have the "premium" sound system, but they are all just Ford spec speakers, which are usually rated at ~16w rms. If you had 03 or newer car with the Alpine system you would need to get some premium speakers and amps to notice any realy gain in clarity and accuracy at high volumes.

 

Just had my door panel off driver's door to replace window regulator . . speaker in my 2000 S Type are 4 ohm-25Watt speaker in driver's door . . . hope that helps . .

 

If your going to do speakers in this car, you really want to run an aftermarket amp too.. I have MB Quart Q-Line components and tweeters in mine.. (amazing mids and highs!! these and focals are the only components I use) The MBs are rated for something like 125 watts RMS and the factory speakers are like 40 watts peak I think... BUT when you strain the factory amp it starts to make a clicking noise every time you raise the volume.. Granted these speakers are really overkill, but with a new amp, they are going to be loud enough to set car alarms off with the tweeters... Im also running a Kicker 12" L7 in a 34hz 2.5 cu. ft ported competition box powered by a Kicker ZX1000.1 amp in the trunk and its unnecessarily loud... DONT do it..

My advice is get a 4 channel 250 watt RMS amp installed in your trunk.. replace all four door speakers with some quality 50 RMS components with built in tweeters.. run a small 10 or 12" sub in a sealed 1 to 1.5 cu. ft. box in the trunk.. remove the factory sub/subs from your package tray (acts as a sound port for the sub in the trunk) and and run another mono channel 300 to 600 watt amp to power it... you will never regret it..

 

I bought theselast yearand I have been extremly happy with my purchase. They were a perfect fit and sound so much better than the stocks even with no aftermart amp
giving them more juice. These come with swivel mount tweeter and cross overs. I could only image what they would sound like with about 50w-100w to each one?
http://www.infinitysystems.com/car/p...amp;Region=USA

In the box


Side by side comparo OEM vs Infinity Refrence



In the door fit as good as stock speaker.


I added a second tweeter as I love that hissing high sound...

 

momo
I also use the infinity 682.7cf in all 4 doors with the infinity 125 watt amp. Kicks some a-$$. you gave me the idea for them. Thanks
Regards

 

Cool. Hey you are running them off the stock deck? If so did you tap into a line to get a signal?

I have the OEM Navi, so an aftermarket is not an option for me. One thing I dislike is that when you add a amp even with a filter you get that buzzing sound. That is the only reason why I haven't added an amp yet.

 

Hey momo, you can add another amp and still use your signal from your deck, which includes your NAVI voice overlays, don't worry about that. I agree with the above, if you change out the speakers, spend just a little more on a 4-channel amp for them...at the very least. sub you may not need...at least until you realize just how loud your new system goes. The buzzing sound is just a bad ground connection, and a good shop can find the best place to do make your power and ground connections. I have two new amps running, and they are clean and no-buzzy. Good luck either way you go.

 

Thanks for the info h20boi.. that is part of the problem if I amplify my speakers it will over power my subs, then I will have to upgrade the subs. Anyone upgrade the stocks subs and have them in the keep them in the same place?

 

momo
I had a shop do my speakers and amp 4 channel. It dose overpower the stocksub. But thats ok . its loud as hell and clear.
Regards

 

If you buy aftermarket subs to run in the stock holes you to buy subs that are specifically made to run "free air" (not inside of a sealed or ported box) if you just buy a regular sub and try to run if free air it will sound like garbage... The downside to free air subs is that you are using your entire trunk as a box.. So you want to have the trunk as sealed as possible.. they also require a lot more power than subs in a regular sealed box and their sound frequencies are not very accurate, especially the lows.. but you do still have your entire trunk..

If you do deicide to go the free air route.. try these: (they were made to be used in free air applications)
Kicker 05C8-4 8" 200W 4-Ohm Subwoofers
Pioneer TSSW841d Premier® 8" Shallow-Mount Subwoofer

 

Well just about anything would sound better than the stock subs. I have somekicker comps CVR8's that I pulled out of my Miata from back in the day. Maybe with some farbication I could make those sit in the oem's place? And like you said the whole truck essentially becoming the enclosure. I know for a fact that the trunk had alot of deadening material.