Hi guys. I have a few sets of rockford fosgate fantaic q 5/14" component sets that I'm thinking of tossing in the jag. For those of you that don't know, they were the top of the line from a few years ago.

Anyhow, I have a pair of 6 1/2" fantic x midbass units I could toss in with the q tweeters. Will it be worth it to use the bigger midbass units or would the performance the about the same given the slightly better quality of the q's?

I'm using an elemental designs 12" sub with 650watts rms for bass but could use some good mid bass....

12 volt guru's chime in!

 

I would stick with the 5 1/4" in the door and get the tweeter up higher in the door. Max them out on wattage and run the sub in the trunk vented through the stock subs holes in the deck.

That's my plan some time in the future.

 

If you're planning on using the factory alpine amp, use the 6.5's they will make more midbass. You can get pre made 5x7 to 6.5 or 5.25" adapter to make it easy. The alpine amp is internally crossed over so you can't use the passive crossover.

I'm actually doing a whole JL audio system in a member here (Chris STR's) car today. He is actually on his way. We are changing out EVERYTHING. I'm going to try to take a lot of pics, and I'm going to post a huge thread trying to show people exactly what it takes and how to do a custom stereo in one of these cars.

Take care,

George

 

Cant wait to see how that turns out. In a life far far away I competed in SQ events in IASC and way back CAN. Won spring break nationals a few times and competed in finals once as well, I have lost most of my pics of the old cars.
I am going to do a new amp, some 5.25 in the doors and maybe a dedicated mid bass along with a few 8s in the trunk at some point. Swapping the factory head unit for some double din screen at some point when I get to it.

This is the hatch of my 300zx I won SBN with. It had two sets of JL 5.25 in the doors with one tweet and two tweets in the dash for center stage. Sounded amazing and looked ok to not to mention cool to have a 600rwhp 10sec car with a cage that sounds good! I took the NOS bottle out for comps

 

I used JL Audio C5-570 components in front doors using stardard Alpine amp. The quality is just awsome. It's superb clean with good bass. I fitted the tweeted on that little triangle behind side mirrors. Initially, I wanted to use a flush mount as it'd certainly look better, but the cable running from the mirror is in the way so I used the surface mount. It doesn't look as good, but what matters is that I can hear the music properly. You can of course use 5.25" instead with adapters. I wanted to go 6.5", but most adapters on sale these days don't fit and you'd have to modify them a bit. Plus, I god a very good deal on ovals so can't complain.

 

Hi guys. I'll be using the stock alpine amp. I wouldn't mind the 6.5" mid basses but will it be more difficult to fit the tweeter then? I could mount the tweeter higher in the door remotely, but will this present any problems if I just use the door panel to mount the tweeter? I haven't had the door panels off, but will I have enough depth to do this or will I need to flush mount them? I know that there isn't enough room by the mirror/window due to the power mirror wiring. I'm looking on ebay at the abs platic adapter plates. So will any ford type 6/8 adapter plate work? They have the ones for the 5 1/4" and tweeter combo but none for the 6 1/2" combo. If I go with the bigger one I'll have to remote mount the tweeter most likely.

Also, is there anything else I should do while installing the speakers? Are the door panels relatively well sealed from the factory or should I seal them up better? Any suggestions? I'm not looking for a competition vehicle or anything like that, just some cheap upgrades using stuff I have lying around. I'm saving the extra cash for more power....

 

I have the 5.25 / tweeter adapter plate and used it to mount my MB Quart 5.25 component set in my S-Type. There isn't enough room on the plate to mount a 6.5 AND the tweeter. Any 6x8 adapter will work. I have a set of 6x8 to 6.5" adapter plates here along with Chris JL Audio C5-650 component set that's going in his front doors.

I actually have a set of infinity Kappa 680.cs 6x8" components that I'm going to be running in the front doors because I got them for a song...

The door panels are ok unless you're running a ton of power. We're going to dynamat the adapter plate to the door frame in Chris's car, and surface mount the tweeters in the little triangles behind the mirrors. Depending on where in the door, there is room to surface mount a tweeter but it requires cutting a hole in the door panel, which I don't know if you want to do.

We got ALOT of work done today, headunit installed completely, GPS antenna mounted, bluetooth microphone ran. First floor made in the trunk, RCA's (6 channels) run front to back, Both JL amps installed and Subs installed and hooked up. I tapped into all the car's speaker wires at the Alpine amps harness using european barrier strips. Then I wired up the crossovers from the JL component set for the rear and hooked up the JL audio amp. This little thing rocks! And believe it or not, the Alpine speakers powered by a real JL amp with the JL crossovers sound DAMN good. Me and Chris were amazed. Unfortunately, despite a 12 hour day, we didn't get as far as we hoped. The false floor that's going to cover everything still needs to be built / installed. - Chris didn't want a flashy install so we decided to go with something really low key. Built an amp rack that sits over the spare tire in the well, and everything is mounted to, and then we're going to build a false floor over it to cover everything so it looks like an empty trunk with a sub box in it. The 10w3v3's in the little sealed box sound great, and hit harder than I thought they would. I'm going to post a thread with all the details / pics.

Take care,

George

 

I have mounted tweeters on the plastic frame as in pic. The difference is the reception is night and day comparing with standard. This position is also the best for staging. You wouldn't even notice much difference with the tweeter fitted on the same plate with the woofer as it would still play to your legs and not ears. Also, dynamat in the doors is a must! Without it all you get is a farting noise everytime the woofer moves air!

 

Any Pics of where in the door you added dynamat to? I'm going to be doing a setup in Chris's car next week.

Thanks,

George

 

good info guys. I'll probably be doing the 6 1/2's up front with the tweeters on the morror cover like the above pic. I'll probably just use the 5 1/4 set in the rear and mount the tweeters and mid bass in the stock location.

 

I don't have any pics of where I put the dynamat, but I basically put a sheet on the outer surface (behind the speaker) and then everywhere on the inner. The most important is to remove all the foam and cover with dynamat. I had a lot of the stuff mind so I went Tue extra length and cut some nice little pieces to fit. Of course, you cannot forget to put dynamat round the aperture. I also put it on the plastic speaker holder. Might get some custom made MDF later, but it's good for now.

 

Dynamatt is great at deading metal. On my Sq cars we would do two layers on ever surface of the door metal. When they finished one door you could thump on the stock door and it was like thumping an empty soada car, then go thump the mat door and it was like thumping your driveway. Stuff really kills sound loss and reverbararion.

 

Michal and others,

1, is there anything inside the plastic A Shaped frame where you installed your tweeters? I have a set and was hoping I could carve a hole in that piece and mount the tweeter inside the piece.

2. I didn't buy JL's or any other more expensive speakers. I purchased a set of JBL's

Amazon.com: JBL GTO628 6.5-Inch 2-Way Loudspeaker: Electronics

@ 61.00 shipped to my door, if they don't cut it, I'll spend a little more but these guys have "shiftable tweeters so I can angle them upwards after mounting to get better projection of the highs.

My Biggest questions are:
3. How do you separate the inner door face from the exterior metal face? The documentation I've seen states there's 8 pins. Is there some tool required to pry the door apart? Which area or pin do you de-tatch first?

4. How are the wires in the existing harness in the door that's connected to the speakers set up? Are the tweeters and the woofer attached on separate leeds or is the same wire use to carry both signals? If it's one wire, how did you achieve separation of signal, a crossover??

5. After installing the new speaker, what did you use to "re-seal" the door?

 

dont take this the wrong way, but the tweeters in the sail pail, need a lot of individual tuning.... that cant be done running the factory radio and factory amp.

If your not going for sound quality at its max, then yes that location works fine. HOWEVER in a true SQ car, i could find 10 better places for that tweeter, than in the sail panel.

 

3- door panel tool from Harbor Freight or buy their plastic panel set (its like 7 dollars)
4- they connect right to the speaker, either tap the wiring and leave the connector in there, or cut it off and solder in the replacement wires. I always try and leave factory connectors in tact. You never know when you may need to put the factory back in.
in the alpine system they are separate leads.

 

Jason, where would you mount the tweeters? I'm going to be installing some as soon as my 6/8 adapters come in from e-design.

 

if your keeping the factory amp on the highs, then keep them as close to possible to the mid. The DSP circuit in the alpine system is setup with the tweeters there.