2003, v8 BASE.

Time for new struts as I'm getting a clunking sound from the front. Do I also need to replace strut mount or that part of the strut assembly when I purchase?
When I do a search on Autozone I come up with these and I'm hoping someone can tell me what the difference is between the various part numbers? Or better yet, is there an entire strut/spring assembly I can purchase so I dont' have to mess with spring compressing?

How do I tell if I have sport suspension or electronic suspension? I know there's an electronic plug on the top of my front shocks.

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-...directUrl=true

• 

  Sachs Shock Absorber 311539

  • Part #311539
  • SKU #903878
  • Limited-Lifetime Warranty
  • 
    0.0
    (0)
    0.0 out of 5 stars.
  • 
    
    
    Fits your 2003 Jaguar S-Type
  • Location: Front
  • Notes: Suspension Shock Absorber. Sub model Base. Comfort suspension. Except adaptive control damping. Monotube design. Quantity per car: 2. Shock/Strut should always be replaced in pairs.
  
  $317.99
  
  Pickup unavailable within 150 miles
  
  Standard Delivery by Feb. 23
  ADD TO CART
• 

  Bilstein B4 OE Replacement Shock Absorber 24067287

  • Part #24067287
  • SKU #930472
  • Limited-Lifetime Warranty
  • 
    0.0
    (0)
    0.0 out of 5 stars.
  • 
    
    
    Fits your 2003 Jaguar S-Type
  • Location: Front
  • Notes: Front, Suspension Shock Absorber. Sub model Base. B4 OE replacement. Standard suspension without electronic suspension. Quantity per car: 2. Shock/Strut should always be replaced in pairs.
  
  $141.99
  
  Pickup unavailable within 150 miles
  
  Standard Delivery by Feb. 23
  ADD TO CART
• 

  Bilstein B4 OE Replacement Shock Absorber 24067430

  • Part #24067430
  • SKU #930474
  • Limited-Lifetime Warranty
  • 
    0.0
    (0)
    0.0 out of 5 stars.
  • 
    
    
    Fits your 2003 Jaguar S-Type
  • Location: Front
  • Notes: Front, Suspension Shock Absorber. Sub model Base. B4 OE replacement. Sport suspension without electronic suspension. Quantity per car: 2. Shock/Strut should always be replaced in pairs.
  
  $141.99
  
  Pickup unavailable within 150 miles
  
  Standard Delivery by Feb. 23
  ADD TO CART
• 

  Bilstein B4 OE Replacement Shock Absorber 20070854

  • Part #20070854
  • SKU #802976
  • Limited-Lifetime Warranty
  • 
    0.0
    (0)
    0.0 out of 5 stars.
  • 
    
    
    Fits your 2003 Jaguar S-Type
  • Location: Front
  • Notes: Front, Suspension Shock Absorber. Sub model Base. With electronic suspension. B4 OE replacement (DampTronic). Quantity per car: 2. Shock/Strut should always be replaced in pairs.
  
  $351.99
  
  Pickup unavailable within 150 miles
  
  Home delivery unavailable
  ADD TO CART

 

If the top of the strut has an electrical connector coming out of the centre, the vehicle is equipped with CATS (Computer Active Technology Suspension). The electronically controlled struts are also usually green.

To replace the electronically controlled struts, it is necessary to compress the spring and disassemble the strut to install the new components.

 

Yes, good to know. I have the green struts. Will a simple spring compression tool such as what Autozone rents out work? Which of the struts above are the CATS?
Don't tell me it's the $350+ one. Yuck. If so, what will happen if I replace them with the non CATS?

 

If your shocks have electrical wiring harnesses connected, they are CATS adaptive shocks and must be replaced with the same.

As far as I know, the only CATS-compatible shocks currently available are the Bilstein B4 DampTronic units. They are not always available. For my XKR I had to wait 6 months before they were in stock again. Rock Auto currently has the fronts for about $300 each but they are out of stock on the rears. PartsGeek.com is another supplier who sometimes has them in stock. There were some part number changes over the years but usually the older part numbers all supersede to one updated part number. You can check at parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com

The upper shock mounts are known to break and cause a clunking sound, so it would be prudent to plan on replacing them but possibly not necessary.

Check all your other suspension components also - you may also need anti-roll bar links and/or bushings, and/or control arm bushings.

Cheers,

Don

 

Have you inspected the front suspension for any other loose/worn components? Worn mounts that attach to the strut towers can also cause some pretty good "clunks"...

 

I've replaced the tie rod ends front/rear as well as sway bar links. Front control arms will be replaced with shocks. But yes, I'm wondering if the front end clunk is just the mounts and not the shocks themselves.

 

How is Rock Auto on returns? I'm always worried that I'm going to order the incorrect part and then get stuck eating return shipping costs, as well as be out two weeks with shipping to and from.

 

Rock Auto is very easy to deal with for returns. If you order the wrong part, you pay return shipping. If they ship the wrong part, they pay return shipping. If the manufacturer's description is wrong, Rock Auto splits the cost of return shipping with you.

In general, Rock Auto's part descriptions are accurate, but they are based on the manufacturers' and vendors' catalogs, so if the catalogs are wrong, the Rock Auto description will be wrong. But that's been fairly uncommon in my experience.

Rock Auto's shipping times are usually very good, and you can select from different delivery speeds at different costs. Most of my orders ship the same day if I order in the morning, or the next day if I order in the evening.

Cheers,

Don

 

Glad you changed the sway bar end links but consider the sway bar rubber mounts as well?
They are a wear item and we have seen many, many suspension noises that were caused by these two items.
The problem is the end links are an easy repair and swapping the bar bushings is easy too but they are buried so getting to them is difficult.

You can disconnect the sway bar ends links and then drive a bit to see if the noise is gone? Simple and quick check for sway bar bushing and sway bar end link noise.
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Is there an option (I don't see one) with Rock Auto to enter VIN to verify parts?

 

No, but you can confirm the correct part number for your car here:

Bilstein Part Finder U.S.A.

Cheers,

Don

 

Clunks can be shock mounts, ball joints, and bushings as a rule. I just installed new shock mounts and bushings in the front shocks. Mine are electric blah blah too. It isn't a difficult job but his is how I did it. 1. Raise car on both sides and steady with jack stands. Two on each side. 2. Remove a tire. 3. Unplug shock connecter. Loosen 4 top nuts and the shock nut but not all the way. 4. Put your floor jack under control arm and remove the swaybar connecting rod. (One side might be enough) 5. Loosen lower shock bolt and remove. Use your jack if you need to adjust and turn the steering with the still attached tire to reach both sides of the bolt. 6. once the bottom bolt is out, remove the 4 shock mount nuts, pull the shock a bit forward (I use a medium size pry bar to pull the A-arm down, wiggle a bit and the assembly comes out forward.

NOW you measure and mark.. I measure the distance the shock nut is from the top. Then I use silver marker to draw a line down the spring and the shock on two sides. That is essential to putting it back together. Use your McPherson spring compressor to relieve the stress. Remove the top nut and then you have just the shock. Replace the bushing and then reassemble with a new upper mount. Re-assemble and do the other side. The assembly is cumbersome, but that is how you do it.

IF you are replacing control arms, try to buy new ones with the ball joints and bushings installed in them. Put the upper control arm ON before you install the shock assembly. Then the assembly, lower arm and brake parts.

The odds are pretty good, the shocks are in better shape than the fittings and Shock mounts and lower bushing is $150 for both sides. I hope that helps a bit.