Stype 5R55N Valve Spring replacement
#21
12-01-2010, 02:01 AM
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#22
12-01-2010, 06:26 AM
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12-02-2010, 07:33 AM
#24
01-13-2011, 03:31 PM
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confused :/
my batt. seems to be fine.... ok i just want to make sure, is there anything else i should be looking for before i go in and try to change this spring? and is there a detailed explantion on how to do this and what i should be aware of i have found some stuff looking through the forums. but maybe someone can just break it down for me instead of me looking for scattered pieces? id really appreciate it. and my cars a 2001 jag s type with a AT 5rr5n. and im getting the PO-795 problem, and detials on the car, it drives perfectly fine first second and third gear takes a bit longer to get into 3rd gear but it eventually does with out any problem! and sometime it will go into 3rd and be fine( i havent tryed going past 40 cuz i know theres a problem). but than sometimes it goes into gearbox fault and it stays in 3rd (so i ussualy stay in the streets not passing 35MPH) and if i turn the car off and back on it goes back to normal and eventually back to gearbox fault. i dont understand how it can drive perfectly fine than give me the problem in 4th gear. but seems like it happens often to jags. any information will help alot and i reallllly appreaciate it. i plan on ordering the spring filter and gasket soon to go in with my dad and his friend and hopefully fixing it.
also is it for sure the spring or am i just taking a chance in fixing it and seeing if thats my problem.
Thank You,
Jason Garcia
also is it for sure the spring or am i just taking a chance in fixing it and seeing if thats my problem.
Thank You,
Jason Garcia
#25
01-13-2011, 03:50 PM
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#26
03-06-2011, 10:08 AM
#27
03-30-2011, 01:52 PM
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4-3 pre stroke spring replacement
Ok guys I just had my gearbox fitted with a new 4-3 pre stroke valve spring and used a great mechanic called Chris, he charged me £250 including parts, spring, oil filter, gasket, and oil, great value for a dirty horrible job that I would hate to do myself, his garage is close to Manchester city center so you could drop your car off before work and collect 3-4 hrs later, he showed me the old spring which was broken up into 4 bits and I was amazed how such a little thing could have caused me so much anguish, anyway if anyone wants to take the same road as me and get someone else to do this job then give Chris or sally his wife a call and just say Mario with the S-Type told you to call, he’ll know exactly what you want repairing that way, anyway his address is: 77 Cornbrook St, off Chorlton Rd, Manchester M16 7QB, tel: 0161-226-7400, CAR MOT Test Manchester - "MOT Testing" "Car Servicing" "Online Bookings"
#28
08-11-2011, 03:26 PM
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5R55N Part Numbers Please?
Hello CSTICH-
Do you recall the part numbers for the pressure plate gasket and the valve body separator plate gaskets? The dealership in Fort Worth acts like they have no clue what I am talking about, but I can clearly see the gaskets on my separator plate and pressure plate. If not, does anyone know if it would hurt to reuse my gaskets - they are not damaged, but I really do not like using old gaskets over again?
Thanks-
mtfife
Do you recall the part numbers for the pressure plate gasket and the valve body separator plate gaskets? The dealership in Fort Worth acts like they have no clue what I am talking about, but I can clearly see the gaskets on my separator plate and pressure plate. If not, does anyone know if it would hurt to reuse my gaskets - they are not damaged, but I really do not like using old gaskets over again?
Thanks-
mtfife
I replaced that spring and the other springs listed by Sonax - see above post. In fact, I still have another set of the other 5 (6?) springs from Sonax.
You need to remove the following
Pan and internal filter (obviously)
Remove pressure sensor
Remove solenoid body - need to remove electrical connector that plugs in from above and that is secured with a bolt - difficult to get to with a wrench while the transmission is in the car, but possible - I managed to do it.
Remove valvebody pressure plate - need to get a new gasket for that - get it from Jaguar or Ford/Lincoln.
Remove valvebody - optional to replace separator plate with integral gasket - mine looked fine and reusable, but I had already had a replacement separator plate/gasket so I used the new one.
Points to watch out:
some of the plugs for the valve body springs are difficult to remove - especially those secured with the L-shaped hooks as those get hammered and deformed during operation from the constant movement of the springs/pistons.
The W-clip secured plugs are relatively easy to remove.
Don't turn the valve body upside down - or you'll be looking for a while where each check ball and other parts came from (and went...).
When reconnecting the solenoid block connector on the outside of the transmission, make sure that it's properly plugged in and that the bolt that you need to retighten has engaged the threads in the solenoid block - if this connector is not properly plugged in you'll see a ton of error codes - Solenoid A, B, C failure, etc. etc.
Also, I'd recommend installing the Transgo SK-5R55W (covers 5R55N/S/W transmissions) - it adds a mechanical pressure safety relief for the Electronic Pressure Control - many transmissions have been destroyed by the PCM (computer) forcing them to max pressure (or by a sticking pressure control solenoid) -> this can ramp internal control pressures beyond design limits (for transmission operation, but also parts breakage).
Christian
You need to remove the following
Pan and internal filter (obviously)
Remove pressure sensor
Remove solenoid body - need to remove electrical connector that plugs in from above and that is secured with a bolt - difficult to get to with a wrench while the transmission is in the car, but possible - I managed to do it.
Remove valvebody pressure plate - need to get a new gasket for that - get it from Jaguar or Ford/Lincoln.
Remove valvebody - optional to replace separator plate with integral gasket - mine looked fine and reusable, but I had already had a replacement separator plate/gasket so I used the new one.
Points to watch out:
some of the plugs for the valve body springs are difficult to remove - especially those secured with the L-shaped hooks as those get hammered and deformed during operation from the constant movement of the springs/pistons.
The W-clip secured plugs are relatively easy to remove.
Don't turn the valve body upside down - or you'll be looking for a while where each check ball and other parts came from (and went...).
When reconnecting the solenoid block connector on the outside of the transmission, make sure that it's properly plugged in and that the bolt that you need to retighten has engaged the threads in the solenoid block - if this connector is not properly plugged in you'll see a ton of error codes - Solenoid A, B, C failure, etc. etc.
Also, I'd recommend installing the Transgo SK-5R55W (covers 5R55N/S/W transmissions) - it adds a mechanical pressure safety relief for the Electronic Pressure Control - many transmissions have been destroyed by the PCM (computer) forcing them to max pressure (or by a sticking pressure control solenoid) -> this can ramp internal control pressures beyond design limits (for transmission operation, but also parts breakage).
Christian
#29
08-12-2011, 04:49 AM
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#30
08-13-2011, 11:57 AM
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Do you recall the part numbers for the pressure plate gasket and the valve body separator plate gaskets? The dealership in Fort Worth acts like they have no clue what I am talking about, but I can clearly see the gaskets on my separator plate and pressure plate. If not, does anyone know if it would hurt to reuse my gaskets - they are not damaged, but I really do not like using old gaskets over again?
Thanks-
mtfife
Don't have the (thin) gasket part number right now. I will look for it later and if I find it I will update this thread.
#31
02-17-2014, 04:55 PM
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Sorry for reviving an old thread but this came the closest to helping me understand how to fix my problem. Sure I need to replace the 4-3 spring. I see where it is, I see all of the parts and placement. What I don't see (and can't seem to find anywhere) is an instruction on how to remove the cap/retaining clip. I see just a cap with a small hole in the center of the cap, tried to hook this gently and pull out but no success. I don't see the w-shaped clip. Help as I'm a bit stuck.
Thanks
Thanks
#32
02-18-2014, 08:41 AM
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#33
02-22-2014, 08:16 PM
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