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Your original post said the brush was 1/8" diameter. That would be able to be inserted and scrub but NOT force the rubber tube off of the drain, But a larger diameter brush concerns me. I have one and when inserted in 1/4" ID hose it binds pretty tight.
Yes you are correct, my mistake it is more like 3/16's. I did not try and force it into the tube only went far enough to feel it hit the drain area and then worked it around to break up the silt and then flushed it. Just wanted to clear out any clumping and get it so it would clear and flow out completely. Sorry if I was a little confusing there.
Yes you are correct, my mistake it is more like 3/16's. I did not try and force it into the tube only went far enough to feel it hit the drain area and then worked it around to break up the silt and then flushed it. Just wanted to clear out any clumping and get it so it would clear and flow out completely. Sorry if I was a little confusing there.
I cut the tube on the LH side today and surprise, surprise the blockage is at the very bottom!
The top is completely clear and the water was clear.
It looks like the tube is pinched as it exist the trunk wall. More later ...
Yes, I talked about taking the stress off the tubing in my original post as I felt that it was pinching the tube the way it was routed from the factory. Glad you are making good progress on this.
I'll have to remove all the electronics in the LR corner as well as the LR fender liner in order to see how to fix this properly. Right now and it's preliminary it looks like i gets pinched completely shut as it goes through the body shell into the wheel well area.
I'm not clear as how that happened though I did have my rear bumper refinished last year. I wouldn't have thought they'd be touching this but who knows? Perhaps it's @ that pinch point, very low, where the dust, dirt and pollen has created a complete dam?
I'll have to remove all the electronics in the LR corner as well as the LR fender liner in order to see how to fix this properly. Right now and it's preliminary it looks like i gets pinched completely shut as it goes through the body shell into the wheel well area.
I'm not clear as how that happened though I did have my rear bumper refinished last year. I wouldn't have thought they'd be touching this but who knows? Perhaps it's @ that pinch point, very low, where the dust, dirt and pollen has created a complete dam?
Not sure why they would be touching those either. Mine were really tight and actually starting to pinch at the bend, perhaps the tube material is shrinking over time? Anyway, I did add more tube and took the stress off while rerouting the tube.
Well here's the entire source of my problem.
That thick wiring harness that's next to the NAV DVD and CD changer presses hard on the flimsy drainage tube and squeezed it completely shut. Once I slid the electronics back and could get access the tube flows air quite freely. But I still need to cut a section out, replace it with a thick wall hose that won't get collapsed and then reinstall everything.
Odd that this completely shut close now after 10 years?
I had dampness in the LR carpet twice before over the last 3 years and then this dampness between the bottom seat cushion and the interior wall, no carpet this time.
It's hard for me to imagine the body shop needing to even touch the electronics in order to get the rear bumper off & on. But who knows ...
No audio/nav system electronics gear in my 2005 S-Type 3.0's trunk so when my moonroof drains don't function, it is indeed due to the typical debris clogging in the lines. Thus far only the right rear drain has suffered from it (September 2012 if I remember correctly). I pulled down the headliner on that side, found the location where the drain hose attaches to the right rear drain on the moonroof pan, pulled it, and blew it out with a three-second blast of compressed air. No question that the task is a hassle but I still believe this gives you the best shot at completely clearing the entire line and therefore not having to repeat the process for a number of years....
Yup apparently there are multiple potential causes for this.
That hose is very thin walled and collapses quite easily.
I think a preemptive cleaning along side the tracks in the drain pan section is a good idea.
I was able to push a flexible coated wire up through the tube into the sunroof but found nothing on mine at least. An air blast before and after that indicated it was completely clear as well.
I must admit to being perplexed at first because I was ready to see exactly what has been previously described here.
I think my other rear drain hose and front drain hoses were taking all the drainage load until I parked the park up on jack stands at the front at which
point I began getting water on the rear seat. That single RR tray drain was overloaded.
So I had to cut the old tube in between the fender and the structural member near where it was crushed (see previous photos) so it was pretty tight working on getting a joint and two hose claps on there. No matter what I did to rearrange that hose it would collapse unless I just cut most of it out.
I joined the new style hose (about 1ft) which is 5/16" fuel hose with 5/16" plastic tubing from a hobby store. I cut that with a small tubing cutter to get clean cut. I couldn't find 5/16" brass tubing locally so I used this and it's just fine.
In the attached photos you can see the box of spring clamps I used but the 1/8" size is the only ones that sort of fit the original hose with the plastic tubing inside of it but it's terribly difficult to get them on.
I used some silicone grease on the tubing so that it can be removed later on.
The new hose on the left side doesn't collapse or kink when making that 90 degree turn through the body structure. The old hose attached to it must not be twisted because it collapses if it is. Fussy stuff.
So that tested great and the water goes flying out with a gurgle heard at the top.
When I did the water test on the other rear side I discovered that it flowed substantially slower. So I cut the tube (see photo) and blew both ends out with my mouth something clear out of the lower end almost immediately and now both halves are clear. I joined the hose with a tub splice and put one clamp on one end of the spliced hose. I could not get a clamp on the lower hose but it is very tight. The water test is now great.
I have Niagara falls out of the back of my fenders now instead of lake Erie inside the car!
Great, glad to see you all are fixing the drain issues, hope I have helped a few folks with my original post and then the great info followed by you guys.
Great, glad to see you all are fixing the drain issues, hope I have helped a few folks with my original post and then the great info followed by you guys.
Best,
mike
Indeed and a thanks to everyone in all the other threads as well. I was frankly very surprised at how different my car's problems were than Jon's or even yours.
Clearly there are a number of things to look out for when it comes to the sun roof drainage issue. Their choice of hose and routing was not good. But on the RH side it clearly did have junk at the end of the hose. I didn't remove the wheel & fender liner. I just blew it out by mouth and it's great now. It wasn't completely obstructed but it WAS slow
Last night at about 4:00 am we got a hellacious thunderstorm and downpour. This morning the car is still dry.
>That thick wiring harness that's next to the NAV DVD and CD changer presses hard on the flimsy drainage tube and
Staatsof is right, but on my car the wire bundle just sort of lay against the drain pipe it didn't really seem to be squeezing it.
But just the same I put a zip-tie around that wire bundle and through a ring on the component stack right beside it and pulled the bundle away from the drain plug. Should prevent what Staatsof experienced, at least.
But damn is it tight in there, couldn't use both hands and had to just kind of poke the zip-tie around the bundle with the tips of my fingers.
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Jaguar - it's not an automobile, it's a Motorcar
'08 Jaguar S-Type 4.2 "Satin Edition" (250.06 hp / 259.67 torque)
That photo I posted doesn't really capture the pinch off well.
When I blew through that tube it was completely blocked though.
IMHO they used the wrong sort of tubing in addition to sloppy assembly.
I think someone on this forum has this hose fail and dump water on to the electronics? I'm not sure about the details of how the water go there though?
A bit more information.
The front drains are much more likely to clog. This is very common on the Lincoln LS forums. Yes they drain right behind the front wheels.
The moon roof is mounted over a metal pan that has 4 hoses connected. One on each corner. The glass panel is not totally sealed by design. Water does get by the glass and into the pan every time it rains. All moon roofs are built this way.
The idea is the pan will hold enough water so the 4 drains can carry it away before it builds up to the point where the water comes over the edge of the pan. Also with 4 drains it does not matter which way the car is tilted there will always be one or more drains pointing downhill.
The interior leaks are almost always from the drains because to get the pan to overflow you need all or almost all of the 4 drains to be plugged. Lucky for us that is rare!
The rubber hoses are mounted pretty tight and with age they seem to shrink a bit. Normally stretching the hose back onto the nipple and adding a clamp will fix it permanently but several people have had to add extra tubing to make it reach.
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I had to add about two inches to bring the tube back up to the pan. I tried to stretch the factory hose but wouldn't quite make it. Lincoln LS didn't have any clamps from factory not sure why. I fixed a few of these in the past and they all had clamps on them but they were earlier models. Now to check the hoses for clogs. I had to pull the interior out as it ruined the seats and carpet. I had it parked for over a year and when I opened it up I was not happy with the damage it had caused. Moldy seats, headliner and the six cloth pillars. I also pulled all the air ducts out and soaked in bleach to get rid of any mold or mildew that may have been growing in there. Don't think it would grow on the plastic but the built up dust and dirt in them could. Now once I clean the drains time to put it all back together. New katzskin seats and I reupholstered the rest myself.
