Temperature Evaporator Sensor
#41
07-19-2014, 09:57 AM
I'm having the same problem with hot air from AC vents. I was able to removed the passenger-side sensor behind the glove box. Just wiggle it out of the evaporator. But getting the sensor to release from the wiring harness is a chore. I never did get the driver side sensors to separate from the wiring harness - just not enough room for leverage unless you have arms like a crab. Very tight space to work. I'll try again this weekend.
One question though. How do I test the resistance on the sensors. Put my multimeter leads on each prong in the sensor or ground one lead of the multimeter and use the other lead on one of the prongs in the sensor. Or am testing resistance of the wiring harness that came out of the sensor.
Thanks for any help. It's getting hot where I am. Need some cold air.
One question though. How do I test the resistance on the sensors. Put my multimeter leads on each prong in the sensor or ground one lead of the multimeter and use the other lead on one of the prongs in the sensor. Or am testing resistance of the wiring harness that came out of the sensor.
Thanks for any help. It's getting hot where I am. Need some cold air.
I had to set my multimeter to ohms at the 200k setting to get a reading. Im using a craftsman multimeter. If your multimeter is different just try different settings under ohms.
As far as removing the harness. Move seat all the way back to get more room. I used a thin flat tipped screwdriver and pushed in the releasing clip while pushing up a bit to get the wiring harness to pop off
Last edited by Dobenja66; 07-19-2014 at 10:04 AM.
#42
07-20-2014, 11:29 AM
Changing the one "off" sensors did not change a thing. Im tempted to loom at the ccm again, but I was darn sure I did not see any burnt traces and continuity tests check it out as good. Possibly missed something. Before I do that though I'm going to go check the pressure in my ac system to see if my issue can be remedied through there.
#43
07-24-2014, 05:08 PM
#44
11-30-2014, 02:36 PM
#45
11-30-2014, 03:15 PM
Veteran Member
#46
12-01-2014, 12:57 AM
Pulled out the module and checked each trace and they were all good. Shipped it to a repair shop to have it bench tested and they couldn't find a problem. It could still be a bad module because sometimes I would have to knock on it to get the display to come on. Only way to confirm this is to install a new control module. I won't be doing this until next may when the weather warms up.
#47
07-19-2016, 10:52 AM
YH1504= brand new part- measured resistance- 24.78 Kohms
Driver side upper one(yh-1504)- Do 25.85 Kohms-suspect this was the bad one and replaced.no blowing hot from drivers side now.all good
driver side lower one (yh 1504)- Do 24.60- ok
This is a guideline when checking for resistance for the bad sensors. Almost 2 Kohms difference will make a change.You can put all of them in the refrigerator and then take mesuremenets again to deciper the culprit.
#48
07-19-2016, 10:54 AM
Here are some guide lines for temp resistance@80F OAT( or close to that)
YH1504= brand new part- measured resistance- 24.78 Kohms
Driver side upper one(yh-1504)- Do 25.85 Kohms-suspect this was the bad one and replaced.no blowing hot from drivers side now.all good
driver side lower one (yh 1504)- Do 24.60- ok
This is a guideline when checking for resistance for the bad sensors. Almost 2 Kohms difference will make a change.You can put all of them in the refrigerator and then take mesuremenets again to deciper the culprit.
#50
07-15-2021, 08:57 AM
Veteran Member
Yes, I believe the same part number was used for all years. Post #3 here has a chart for resistance values at various temperatures:
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...ol-how-185002/
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