Are the $35 DCCVs any good or do I need to spend $100 on a name brand? Sometimes the cheap chinese is the same quality as the name vrand. And sometimes they arent. So who can vouch for any particular brand for a 2006 str
Personally, I prefer Gates, as they are an OEM and Ford uses them for cooling system components. Yes, they are made in China (like just about everything else) but I'll wager the QC is more stringent than ones from the Sum Ting Wong Auto Parts Plant #27...
I always use factory parts if possible but we have seen even new DCCV's be bad right out of the box regardless of brand?
I suspect what you said is true they are all most likely made in the same Chinese factory.
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They are a part of the Fling Dung industrial conglomerate. They also sell unbranded items through their separate Wok Hoam auto parts subsidiary.
All seriousness aside, when deciding what level of cheapness to install, I like to consider the consequences. As with many things in life, I have a sliding scale of ethics. Will a failure leave me stranded? Is this part hard to change?
A replacement cigarette lighter insert? I'm willing to gamble on a white box eBay special.
A suspension control arm? I'm sticking to OEM, Motorcraft, etc.
The DCCV won't leave you stranded, but it sure is a pain to change.
Have you tried changing the O rings sealing the coils from valves ?
They tend to leak both interenally and hydrauically lock the valve, from operating fully, and leak externally from the base plate.
Have you tried changing the O rings sealing the coils from valves ?
They tend to leak both interenally and hydrauically lock the valve, from operating fully, and leak externally from the base plate.
I did a quick resistance measurement on both the str and the parts car.
on the Str I measured resistance from the FC4 connector (disconnected) to F32 in the engine compartment. That essentially is measuring the resistance thru the dccv coils. My results show:
str
fc4-9 to f32 10 ohms
fc4-10 to F32. 8.5 ohms
parts car
fc4-9 to f32. 15 ohms
fc4-10 to f32. 15 ohms
so it looks like a bad dccv bc bith coils are different ohms and beth are less than the dccv measurements on the parts car (which were both the same)
and a lower coil resistance means higher current and that supports the theory that the resettable fuses in my CCM are opening up after a giving it some throttle (opening of throttle also increases the system voltage a lil bit- probably just enough to pop the resettable fuse.
I bet if I installed a 5 ohm resistor on the dccv ground wires it would limit the current and prevent the fuse from opening in the ccm.
but I’ll just swap the DC CV for the one in the parts car and verify my root cause determination.
Yes you can attempt to repair a DCCV and people have but I think you are money ahead to just get a new one. They are not that expensive and is just about 100% guaranteed that yours will fail.
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but I’ll just swap the DCCV for the one in the parts car and verify my root cause determination.
A general observation about the DCCV:
They seem to have a nearly 100% failure rate. It's not really a question of IF a DCCV will fail, but WHEN. With practically any DCCV, the clock is ticking towards eventual failure. The best you can do is buy some time with a quality new one. Even though it's your time and money, I'd still be extremely hesitant to install a used unit, considering that replacement is such a pain.
Have you considered swapping out the DCCV guts for new while still installed? Not sure about the later models, but I did it on an early model and it made a miserable task a lot easier:
They seem to have a nearly 100% failure rate. It's not really a question of IF a DCCV will fail, but WHEN. With practically any DCCV, the clock is ticking towards eventual failure. The best you can do is buy some time with a quality new one. Even though it's your time and money, I'd still be extremely hesitant to install a used unit, considering that replacement is such a pain.
Have you considered swapping out the DCCV guts for new while still installed? Not sure about the later models, but I did it on an early model and it made a miserable task a lot easier:
I will just look for a new one. I remember how hard it was when I was messing around in that general area rerouting harnesses and hoses that werent in there correct location from some previous repair by someone before I got the car. I was down there replacing the supercharger coolant pump and all the harnesses werent routed correctly leaving the cables rubbing against places that wiuld eventually be damaged. Anyways I had to disconnect the connector and coolant lines during that process and ya, pita. And I had the car up on a lift abd it was still hard to get in there.
it’s a bosch part of course it has a 100% failure rate and burns up the module 🤷♂️ my chinese one is still ok
Interesting observation. Maybe we've been going about this wrong (I mean you guys, not me personally) all these years.
Perhaps the Chinese models draw a little less power and can't burn up the control module. Anybody else care to share their results with a Chinese DCCV, good or bad? Don't be shy, we don't judge. Unless you have a man bun. Those deserve to be ridiculed.
Right, but typically resistance changes as the item warms up. This factor changes the results of the equation. An incandescent bulb is an extreme example of this behavior, but nearly all circuits behave this way to some extent. Taking a direct amperage reading under load will be far more accurate than a calculation based on cold resistance.
I'm contemplating replacing this again as a part of my under the supercharger hose failure project. I found a shop who's working with me on this project and I think we've got a pretty complete parts list now, so we're into the while you're at stuff.
I'm trying not to go nuts though.
When I did this the last time which was maybe 7 years ago I did it out of an abundance of caution so I'm not still running on the original. The car has been down since the fall of 2019 with the coolant drained.
I am replacing every hose + some coolant pump (not the inter cooler pump) + the mechanical water pump. I haven't made up my mind yet on the dccv. You can always make the argument that parts deteriorate just sitting there but I'm trying not go completely nuts of this job as there ARE other repairs to do.
So this Motorcraft part from the Lincoln LS is the exact same part that Jaguar put in this car. I don't know if Motorcraft has switched to a cheaper Chinese manufacturer than what was utilized back in 2005. I see reference to it being originally a Bosch manufactured part but they too get some of their stuff made in China.
