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I've had my 2003 Jaguar STR over a year now. 8 months ago I had the trans fluid checked. It was full, with the red fluid not the standard zf6 oil. A few days ago the trans started slipping in and out of gear when cold. Problem seemed to go away and run/pull fine once she reached normal operating temperature. Problem seems to be getting worse. After listening very closely at idle, sport mode on in park I can hear what sounds like a pump going in and out. At the same time it goes in and out the sport mode light corresponds. My jaguar mechanic is telling me the red fluid is the same, just a replacement for the original. He's also telling me it sounds like I need a new gearbox. Which doesn't make sense because when it's warmed up, it runs/pulls strong. Last night I tested it from 0-70mph under 3/4 acceleration with absolutely no slipping, worked flawlessly. Also note, when I reset the computer via battery disconnect, it operates correctly until next time it cools off. Any ideas? I've ordered the correct fluid and filter.
Last edited by Jason Souhrada; Jun 12, 2017 at 11:15 AM.
Reason: More details
I've had my 2003 Jaguar STR over a year now. 8 months ago I had the trans fluid checked. It was full, with the red fluid not the standard zf6 oil. A few days ago the trans started slipping in and out of gear when cold. Problem seemed to go away and run/pull fine once she reached normal operating temperature. Problem seems to be getting worse. After listening very closely at idle, sport mode on in park I can hear what sounds like a pump going in and out. At the same time it goes in and out the sport mode light corresponds. My jaguar mechanic is telling me the red fluid is the same, just a replacement for the original. He's also telling me it sounds like I need a new gearbox. Which doesn't make sense because when it's warmed up, it runs/pulls strong. Last night I tested it from 0-70mph under 3/4 acceleration with absolutely no slipping, worked flawlessly. Also note, when I reset the computer via battery disconnect, it operates correctly until next time it cools off. Any ideas? I've ordered the correct fluid and filter.
Other than what I interpret as a flashing sport mode light, it sounds like a normally operating cold ZF6 in Jag S. There's a TSB, seek and ye shall find. The torque converter locks and unlocks when the gearbox oil is cold in an effort to speed the rise to operating temperature. It is a bit un-nerving.
When you cold-start, keep it in "4" until everything is fully warmed up and I suspect your symptoms will disappear. I'd look for a loose electrical connection somewhere to explain the flashing Sport light.
Other than what I interpret as a flashing sport mode light, it sounds like a normally operating cold ZF6 in Jag S. There's a TSB, seek and ye shall find. The torque converter locks and unlocks when the gearbox oil is cold in an effort to speed the rise to operating temperature. It is a bit un-nerving.
When you cold-start, keep it in "4" until everything is fully warmed up and I suspect your symptoms will disappear. I'd look for a loose electrical connection somewhere to explain the flashing Sport light.
it's definitely not normal. Its getting worse. Now when it's warmed up it Seems ok under light acceleration, but try to pass someone and slips out of gear until the rpms drop back down under 2000. Valve body? Going now to have the level checked.
Depending on how the fluid is changed, you may have to do it several times.
The best way is a complete flush. You have a machine that connects to the cooler lines, sucking out the old fluid and replacing it with new.
If you do a drain and fill, you are leaving some of the old fluid in the tranny, and while it is better than before, it is still not pure. You may have to do it several times to feel secure.
It sounds like you have the wrong type of oil in your gearbox. I personally would change it for an oil with the correct specifications.
I've ordered the correct fluid and filter, but should I go ahead bite the bullet and replace the valve body as well while im in there? Not sure if my symptoms suggest valve body issues, though i feel as if my issue is some sort of pump failing.
Last night I tested it from 0-70mph under 3/4 acceleration with absolutely no slipping, worked flawlessly.
Originally Posted by Jason Souhrada
Now when it's warmed up it Seems ok under light acceleration, but try to pass someone and slips out of gear until the rpms drop back down under 2000.
Make up your mind.
The cold behavior you describe is exactly like the common complaint of the torque converter locking and unlocking to warm up the fluid. Yes, it makes a pump on/pump off sound. It gives the appearance of slipping...rpms fluctuating =/- 500 revs.
I don't know what triggers it to stop that but suspect it is a xmsn oil temp sensor. Maybe yours has gone hissy and maintains the warm-up behavior full-time.
mine has had the TSB surge since near new and it does not sound like the same problem .
mine never slips and only surges when cold for no more than 5 mins .and only between the speeds of 30mph and 55mph. and only in 5th or 6th gear . shifting down to forth fixes it every time !
no pump noises no sport light flashing . and basically no evidence of the problem until 30mph in top cog. defiantly not at idle .
its defiantly a different problem .
the oil is not supposed to be red . it should be green .
you may just need your fluid and filter changed followed up by having the trans adaptions reset .via SDD/IDS . i think some one (Norri) has posted about such issues with adoptions .
its a 30min job at the dealer but must be done cold .
so you'll have to leave it with them over night or flat bed it there . they can read the chassis codes at the same time to recover any trans codes that may lead you to the part required if any .
id defiantly try this before buying internal parts for sure .
Make up your mind.
The cold behavior you describe is exactly like the common complaint of the torque converter locking and unlocking to warm up the fluid. Yes, it makes a pump on/pump off sound. It gives the appearance of slipping...rpms fluctuating =/- 500 revs.
I don't know what triggers it to stop that but suspect it is a xmsn oil temp sensor. Maybe yours has gone hissy and maintains the warm-up behavior full-time.
The trans need a to make up ITS mind. I can drive around all day under light acceleration just fine. Go to pass or merge into traffic and it pops out of gear and revs until rpms drop under 2000 to slip back into gear, unlike last night when it pulled fine hard 0-70. The 200rpm fluctuations when cold are a different issue, I know that's a common problem. It started doing that months ago.
mine has had the TSB surge since near new and it does not sound like the same problem .
mine never slips and only surges when cold for no more than 5 mins .and only between the speeds of 30mph and 55mph. and only in 5th or 6th gear . shifting down to forth fixes it every time !
no pump noises no sport light flashing . and basically no evidence of the problem until 30mph in top cog. defiantly not at idle .
its defiantly a different problem .
the oil is not supposed to be red . it should be green .
you may just need your fluid and filter changed followed up by having the trans adaptions reset .via SDD/IDS . i think some one (Norri) has posted about such issues with adoptions .
its a 30min job at the dealer but must be done cold .
so you'll have to leave it with them over night or flat bed it there . they can read the chassis codes at the same time to recover any trans codes that may lead you to the part required if any .
id defiantly try this before buying internal parts for sure .
Plan on changing the fluid/filter later this week. I just thought that rebuilding/replacing the valve body while I've got the pan off would be worth the extra $380 rebuild cost vs. finding out the fluid wasn't the problem and having to drain, remove pan again.
I'll do the fluid/filter change followed by the reflash. If that doesn't work, I'll rebuild the valve body. If that doesn't work, how much can I get for it? Because I can't afford a complete rebuild and don't want to chance a used unit.
I'll do the fluid/filter change followed by the reflash. If that doesn't work, I'll rebuild the valve body. If that doesn't work, how much can I get for it? Because I can't afford a complete rebuild and don't want to chance a used unit.
i purchased 7liters mine took 6.2 liters . obviously you spill a little wilst setting the temp ,
you can get half of whats inside the torque converter out by
jacking the front way high and turn the engine over with a breaker bar and socket on the front pulley from underneath . you will find a sweet spot were another gush of oil comes out . and leave it for an hour or two dribbling away .
don't forget to do the sleeve .
i purchased 7liters mine took 6.2 liters . obviously you spill a little wilst setting the temp ,
you can get half of whats inside the torque converter out by
jacking the front way high and turn the engine over with a breaker bar and socket on the front pulley from underneath . you will find a sweet spot were another gush of oil comes out . and leave it for an hour or two dribbling away .
don't forget to do the sleeve .
Transmission help needed PLEASE!
